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ARP headstud questions....

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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 03:39 PM
  #16  
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From: MD/ NY
Originally Posted by kouzman
i would run new studs to be on the safe side...

When i built my block i have the regular ARPs from before and only torqued once when i put cams but i didnt use them again...
Went with L19s to be on the safe side!
agreed just get new ones there cheap.

I did the same as you. Had regular headstuds when i did cams never had to re tq them. When i went with the new build i just did L19s
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 03:56 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by E85evo8
now that i'm thinking I may throw a rod before I lift the head with the reg ARP headstuds....what do you guys think? I'm running Eagle H-beam rods
I wouldent worry about the rods if your tune is on point no worrys there they will be fine for this build it sounds like just something to think about if you are planning for 700+hp atleast buy new arp they are cheap.
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 03:58 PM
  #18  
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L 19 are backordered and I just couldn't wait so I just placed an order for a new set of standard ARP headstuds...AMS/Headgames w/Kelford 280's on the HTA 3582r and E85 should make some NICE power!!!
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 03:59 PM
  #19  
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Sounds like a very good set up...I'm kinda jealous
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 03:59 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by mrboost05
I wouldent worry about the rods if your tune is on point no worrys there they will be fine for this build it sounds like just something to think about if you are planning for 700+hp atleast buy new arp they are cheap.

I agree with you...my tune is conservative as far as timing and A/F's as I want longevity over pure peak power etc. I love E85 and how much power you can make with it!!
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 05:06 PM
  #21  
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if i remember correctly, i read somewhere that TTP said they use the regular ARP studs to 42psi. don't quote me on it and don't get mad if im wrong lol.

also why would you want to know if you can re-use them and someone had said they retorqued them twice...should i be doing this retorquing with mine??
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 07:29 PM
  #22  
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you could have re-used the stud, you have to check for stretch. There is tons of info about it if you google how to measure it. That is what would tell you if it is ok to re-use, because once they stretch there no good. And you certainly don't need a L19...we were making 1000whp in mitsu's before L19 was even thought about, and no problems with stock headgaskets and no o'ring.

Congrats on your new purchase!
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 07:32 PM
  #23  
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From: The Ham! Alabama
wow! thanks for the info!
Originally Posted by HeadGames
you could have re-used the stud, you have to check for stretch. There is tons of info about it if you google how to measure it. That is what would tell you if it is ok to re-use, because once they stretch there no good. And you certainly don't need a L19...we were making 1000whp in mitsu's before L19 was even thought about, and no problems with stock headgaskets and no o'ring.

Congrats on your new purchase!
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 07:36 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by HeadGames
you could have re-used the stud, you have to check for stretch. There is tons of info about it if you google how to measure it. That is what would tell you if it is ok to re-use, because once they stretch there no good. And you certainly don't need a L19...we were making 1000whp in mitsu's before L19 was even thought about, and no problems with stock headgaskets and no o'ring.

Congrats on your new purchase!

thx, someone on these forums was selling one of your/AMS evo race heads for an unbelieveable price so I had to jump on it....I'm having it hot-tanked, decked and pressure checked and then it's going on w/the Kelford 280's. I'm anxious to see how much more hp this combo is going to make over my stock head and GSC 272's (GSC very early version of the S2's)
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 09:46 PM
  #25  
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From: EWING,NEW JERSEY
if your getting work done to it, and have not taken it anywhere yet, you should consider sending it to us for a update...we have a SICK valve job update that would help that puppy scream!

your going to see at least 60-70whp
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 09:50 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by HeadGames
if your getting work done to it, and have not taken it anywhere yet, you should consider sending it to us for a update...we have a SICK valve job update that would help that puppy scream!

your going to see at least 60-70whp

send me a pm on what the specifics are. I'm sending it to the local machine shop that built my 2.0 shortblock (they are very familiar with evos...Machine World is the name) I would like to send the head to you guys to verify that it is indeed a head done by you(if that's possible) and I'd like you guys to stamp or mark the outside so it's visible for all to see. Let me know, thanks!!

Mike
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 09:52 PM
  #27  
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Headgames, you have a pm!!
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 04:26 PM
  #28  
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my AMS/Headgames head is now on its way to Headgames for an "update" which should increase CFM's over the previous AMS version.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 04:28 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by RockmanX
why not get the as i call them middle of the line studs. the arp "undercut" head studs. stronger then reg and not as strong but close to l19



i bought them from Co_04 on these forums

I just read up on these on ARP's website and they do appear to be a little bit stronger and will seal better/stronger do to the "undercutting"
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 09:18 PM
  #30  
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just get some oversized screws and put em in! 100+ psi all day long
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