"regular" ARP headstuds vs. ARP L19 headstuds
Just keep in mind that example after example of high hp/torque cars have been demonstrated here over the years, using the regular ARP studs, and without head lifting issues. IF you are lifting the head, it may be due to a problem in the making, and the head being lifted is the only thing that is keeping the motor from going up in smoke.
One would be wise to check that ignition advance at peak torque (load), especially if running E85 - a fuel that seems to behave a little different than straight gasoline at the limit.
One would be wise to check that ignition advance at peak torque (load), especially if running E85 - a fuel that seems to behave a little different than straight gasoline at the limit.
got the L19's today and they look NICE!! I will probably be turning the boost up to 35-38psi once I install the Headgames race head, Kelford 272's, and probably the Buschur IM unless I decide to dyno the race head and cam combo first. It would be nice to see the gains from the head/cams and then the IM at a later date to compare the gains vs. the ported stock IM I have on there now...
My buddy uses regular arps with 680whp no problems so far. I would have to ask him what he used on his 1000whp talon. I just installed a new set of regular ones, because while trying to reuse my old ones, I stretched one trying to put 85ft-lbs on it. One thing to note though was that I badly overheated my head and warped it, which is why I was reinstalling them in the first place, which could have put a lot of stress on them.
Torqued the new ones to 82ft-lbs, although the directions only call for 80 with moly lube.
Torqued the new ones to 82ft-lbs, although the directions only call for 80 with moly lube.
Last edited by fre; Nov 25, 2009 at 05:01 PM.
whats the most people have torqued L19s too?im running L19s on my evo but around 40 psi it pushes some coolant,im running a factory headgasket btw.im on a 6265,built motor 10-1 compression e85......i torqued the head down to 105lbs when i assembled the motor.maybe it could be as simple a weak radiator cap i dunno just wanted you opinions
there is another thread about your question and L19's should be torqued to 90-95ft. lbs. Some people posted up with higher torque, but I believe AMS/Bushur and a few other reputable shops recommend 95ft/lbs.
ahh ok im chan ging the head gasket to a comectic,going to check the head make its not warped etc for my piece of mind.......im running the car at the nscra event next weekend sooo i need to figure this out asap...i really want turn this up onto kill
Last edited by nos51; Nov 26, 2009 at 10:06 AM.
i dont know about you guys but when I was building my engine the difference in $120 and $220 is not enough to go cheap!!!!
Why would you cheap out over 100 bucks???
Ive had/seen regular studs give under high boost under 700hp.
Why would you cheap out over 100 bucks???
Ive had/seen regular studs give under high boost under 700hp.
Last edited by 190hpkilla; Nov 26, 2009 at 10:53 AM.
If you over torque them, you are creating a new set of problems. More is not better.
In a pressure test some time ago, the factory headgasket outperformed the Cometic. The Cosworth gave the best result.
FYI
In a pressure test some time ago, the factory headgasket outperformed the Cometic. The Cosworth gave the best result.
FYI
95 ft/lbs is correct that is 80% yield of the fastener . The factory gasket is better than the cometic version. As for that 1000 hp talon he is probably using the standard ARPs since the DSM 6 bolt engines have a larger diameter stud. Mikes Evo 2 made over 1000 whp on standard arp studs but then again there are other mods you can make to a head to help it seal up . On my DSM head we mill out the exhaust side water jacket and almost fill it up with weld to decrease the flex in the head deck. On a lot of heads i find it more of a casting/manufacturing issue than a fastener issue . The greater torque helps from the L19's but it is usually not the real problem







lol!