Let's talk making 'big' power on the stock bottom-end reliably.
I keep going back and forth on doing this, and have for about two years. Where my car is currently at, I've heard of spun rod bearings, but at the same time there's lots of other people w/ good luck on stock bolts. If I want to push the stock bottom-end further, it would prolly be wise to do it, but I'm wondering what all the other locals are doing.
If you have actually done this, or know someone that has, please comment:
-Have you done it? Drop oil pan, swap bolts, torque, done, or is there more to it?
-Once they are in, how much further is the bottom-end safe to push?
-How reliable is this, long term?
I keep going back and forth on doing this, and have for about two years. Where my car is currently at, I've heard of spun rod bearings, but at the same time there's lots of other people w/ good luck on stock bolts. If I want to push the stock bottom-end further, it would prolly be wise to do it, but I'm wondering what all the other locals are doing.
If you have actually done this, or know someone that has, please comment:
-Have you done it? Drop oil pan, swap bolts, torque, done, or is there more to it?
-Once they are in, how much further is the bottom-end safe to push?
-How reliable is this, long term?
Evolved Member
Also wondering this but I think you would be better off getting pistons and rods.
Evolved Member
i havnt done this yet, but once i get back to the states i am gonna do it since i've had my rod bolts for almost a year now jus sittin in the closet... i am only doing it because i have NO plans any time soon to upgrade my block as i will not be pushing over 420whp, but it's an easy straight forward install (if u know a decent amount about mechanics). Same thing as to why some people do head studs and some do not... just another one of those "cheap insurance" things....
Evolved Member
I've done it. When pulling out my stock bolts, I found some torqued as low as 16 ft-lbs where the tight ones were up around 34 ft-lbs.
Obviosuly they weren't installed lose and the bolts had stretched that much. This is just a 300HP stock redline '03 with 50k miles.
Obviosuly they weren't installed lose and the bolts had stretched that much. This is just a 300HP stock redline '03 with 50k miles.
Evolved Member
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Obviosuly they weren't installed lose and the bolts had stretched that much. This is just a 300HP stock redline '03 with 50k miles.
Wonder if I should do this to my motor....Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
I've done it. When pulling out my stock bolts, I found some torqued as low as 16 ft-lbs where the tight ones were up around 34 ft-lbs.Obviosuly they weren't installed lose and the bolts had stretched that much. This is just a 300HP stock redline '03 with 50k miles.
-Bink
I had it done. A month or so later one of my bearings decide to go for a spin. Coincidence? I'm not sure.
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Obviosuly they weren't installed lose and the bolts had stretched that much. This is just a 300HP stock redline '03 with 50k miles.
Did you torque all the new bolts to spec then? Any issues since?Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
I've done it. When pulling out my stock bolts, I found some torqued as low as 16 ft-lbs where the tight ones were up around 34 ft-lbs.Obviosuly they weren't installed lose and the bolts had stretched that much. This is just a 300HP stock redline '03 with 50k miles.
Thanks for the feedback everyone, keep it coming!
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Any comments on the procedure that was used? How much power were you making at the time?Originally Posted by Chele
I had it done. A month or so later one of my bearings decide to go for a spin. Coincidence? I'm not sure.
Evolved Member
You should never use torque specs for rod bolts. You should use a stretch gauge.
For something that important, a torque number isn't going to tell you much. A stretch gauge tells you exactly when you are at the fastener's designed amount of preload.
Eric
For something that important, a torque number isn't going to tell you much. A stretch gauge tells you exactly when you are at the fastener's designed amount of preload.
Eric
Can you elaborate on how specifically you use the stretch gauge? Ever done it on....stock rods while they were still in the car? 
Account Disabled
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For something that important, a torque number isn't going to tell you much. A stretch gauge tells you exactly when you are at the fastener's designed amount of preload.
Eric
well saidOriginally Posted by l2r99gst
You should never use torque specs for rod bolts. You should use a stretch gauge.For something that important, a torque number isn't going to tell you much. A stretch gauge tells you exactly when you are at the fastener's designed amount of preload.
Eric
Evolved Member
A friend of mine swaped his rod bolts out with arp's. He removed the pan and did one rod at a time, and one bolt at a time. You can pm him and ask him about it..Go into the Reno thread in the west coast forum...his screen name is Jer.K
Evolving Member
Had mine done 2 years and 20k miles ago. Never a problem since, stock block 30r @31psi on meth daily. Revving to 8k (not daily but close) and even 9k a few times when the shifter locked me out at the track . As was said, use a stretch guage and if done correctly you shouldn't have issues.
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I looked in that thread, searched for his username and 'rod' and 'bolt' and 'bolts' with no luck. Can you link to it?Originally Posted by Murf
A friend of mine swaped his rod bolts out with arp's. He removed the pan and did one rod at a time, and one bolt at a time. You can pm him and ask him about it..Go into the Reno thread in the west coast forum...his screen name is Jer.K