i searched around evom and lots of people were using amsoil and redline
i had a good deal on amsoil so i bought

tranny:
3qt of amsoil Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90

T-case & diffs:
2qt of amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 (i think this was the right one for the diffs and T-case)

kinda thinking if i should just use diaqueen.

i read that these were the right oils but just wanted to ask if i bought the right amount and the right oils. i'm kinda paranoid since my T-case blew 2 times, so just want to double check with the people with some experience w/ amsoil.
these are good oils right?

 

Yep, that's the right stuff and those are the best oils according to many racers. I used redline and just ordered Amsoil fluids to last a year or more so it'd better be good

 

I have been using Amsoil in my setup. Engine oil, tranny, transfer case, and rear diff. Best fluid I have ever used. The car runs so smooth. The stock fluids are crap

 

I just got my order for engine, tranny and diff in, same stuff as you. Had Redline before but Ilike AMSOIL better.

 

I have amsoil in my tranny.

Amsoil MTG 75-90 GL4 3 quarts for the tranny.

Amsoil severe gear 75-90 GL5 1 quart for tcase, 1 quart for rear diff

Make sure you run it for a few miles and then check the levels again to top it off. You work the air bubbles out and get the oil in all the hard to reach areas the level goes down. Trapped air can especially make the tcase appear full when it's not since it has such a small capacity, the oil is thick, and there's a lot of small areas it needs to fill it doesn't necessarily flow into easily.

 

the MTG looks a little thin always thought tranny fluids are a little thicker
and cant see the SVG since it has a black bottle

 

Did you make sure you got GL4 for the tranny? The GL5 is an incorrect additive package for our tranny and it makes the car shift like crap.

 

I switched to Amsoil almost right after I got the car. I use the MTG in the tranny. I also use their Dominator oil for the engine. THis stuff has very high ZDDP in it.

See https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/7644540-post172.html for my analysis.

Full thread is here https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/se...ck-review.html

 

yea i checked it says gl-4 75w-90 and everything

 

It's multi-wieght so it flows like a 75 oil when it's cold or room temp in the bottle. It flows like a 90 when it's up to operating temp.

 

OEM Mitsu DiaQueen 90W LSD is the way to go in the transfer case and rear differential. The fact its a straight 90W and not a 75W-90 like most aftermarket fluids is actually a very big deal. I also prefer Redline in the transmission, but people seem to report good things about the Amsoil.

 

Kraka, please stop spreading this 90W VS 75W90 theory of yours, we have asked you plenty times to elaborate on this but you have not, and we have explainned to you many times that the 75W90 will actually help you with flowing capabilities in the colder temps.
The key is in the first number 75W wich will again help you with flow rates, the 90 OEM diaqueen is a straight 90 not saying is a bad oil but not as good as a multi viscocity, plus is not a synthetic but mineral based, i can light it up and burn it synthetic i would have a hard time.

And now iam wondering why all the big dogs do not run OEM, hummm !

 

I shouldn't have to explain since you're obviously an oil expert. Do some research. I suggest you look into the amount of shock load capacity each is able to handle and you'll realize that a 75W-90 (even synthetic) is not able to handle as as much as a straight 90W. There is a reason many OEM's use a straight 90W gear oil in high shock environments even though 75W-90 is the more commonly found viscosity.

Some quick info for you:
Amsoil 75W-90 tests at about 350 newtons
Mobil 1 and Redline around 250
90W mineral oils have tested above 1000

The only disadvantage is pour-point which is obviously where the synthetic 75W-90's shine. My feelings on this are if Mitsubishi felt comfortable enough to run a straight 90W I feel they know it must heat up and begin to properly flow after just a short amount of warm-up driving. Many OEM's are choosing straight 90W's including Mitsubishi, Toyota, Honda, etc. even though it is harder for the average consumer to source and its not as readily available (don't claim to make the dealerships more profit b/c Honda doesn't even sell it). Also to add, 400F is on the low end for 90W mineral oil flashpoints, I highly doubt anyone is getting their transfer case and rear differential that hot and burning up oil, my guess is if they ever actually have they broke other stuff before the oil was able to fail.

Its time you start looking at some real facts rather than just the brochures Amsoil passes out.

 

Amsoil is fine to use in the trans, TC, and Diff.

Kracka is pointing out that many, including myself, run/ran the OEM LSD fluid in our TC and Diffs with no ill effects after many races and events (124k on my car when I sold it - OEM TC and diff).

The key is fluid changing in the appropriate intervals. AND proper TC/diff break-in. They are gears after all. I did not race my car until I had a good 15k of street miles on it.

 

thx for the great advice on changing fluids. but when i change fluids and the tranny fills up 3 qts and TC and rear diffs fills up 1 qt each there is no worries of trapped bubbles right? it might be an obvious question but as i said i m pretty paranoid when it comes to drivetrains.