deepee1

iTrader: (2)

My stock clutch went at 20k. I toasted it at an AutoX. I'm sure you did this already, but run the regular checks to ensure it's a slipping clutch (do a search, with ebrake on - stick car in reverse and get to the biting point on the clutch. Stay in neutral for a second or so, and then do the same thing but in first gear. See if the car stalls. Seems like you already experienced the 5th gear pull.)
Anyway, I got the ACT street kit installed and it's rock solid over 16k later. Because of your power and driveability goals, and reading through the site - it looks like your best bet is the Exedy Twin.
The only thing I wanted to comment on was pricing. Don't be cheap on clutch jobs. If it's a matter of 100 or 200 bucks go to AMS.
My work was done locally for me at TurboTrix. They installed my SS clutch line, removed the restrictor pill at the same time - no difference in rates. They had a flat cost, 600 bucks and then whatever you want to put in. It was a first rate job. There's too many horror stories about people trying to save money at the cost of poor work... it's too late when you're faced with a new transmission bill.
At least call AMS again and see if they can work something out. I give all my business to TurboTrix and they take care of me. Let AMS know they got your custom if they're willing to cut you a break.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

I was quoted at about 780 for a clutch job at AMS, not including fluids. And I believe they were quoting me at a rate if you buy the clutch there, which you can buy for much cheaper at other places, unless you're looking for one of their special clutches.

my clutch went at about 40k - im pushing around 380whp
i have a question though - i first noticed my clutch going when i was WOT in third gear - as soon as I hit peak boost the rpms would actually fall (presumably because the stock clutch can't hold the power) after falling it would try to pick back up again. do you have this symptom?

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

I actually had some work done by Strictly Modified and had a good experience. I certainly am not looking to skimp and as I said before, I love AMS. They are all good guys and do good work, but for something like a clutch job not requiring any real tricks aside from doing it properly, I would think any Evo shop could do it well. Strictly Modified is a chunk cheaper per hour than AMS and even recommended by AMS when I had a CV boot replaced.

Why would you think a jump to a twin is the best idea? Simply because they hold a ton and still have stock like clutch pressure? For something like the Fidanza, is the clutch weight actually going to increase significantly for something like that 4.3? I would guess it sort of has to if it uses a single plate but holds more unless the coefficient of friction for the surface is much higher. Maybe a combination of both of those for the 3.2 or 4.3? If a twin is really the best choice (still hoping to avoid that huge entry fee) what material? It seems to vary a huge amount depending on material type and whether it is push or pull.

Is the SS line always a good idea? I assume it is like SS brake lines, they are just stronger and feel more consistent. Any other recommendations?

I will call AMS and probably SM tomorrow and just see what they quote on price and what they recommend.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Was that 780 including the clutch? I hope yes because that is an enormous labor cost otherwise. What type of clutch was that quote for?

Your RPMs should spike if you are applying throttle and the clutch cant hold it. If the RPMs are actually dropping under throttle, it is a motor issue. If the clutch cant hold the power (in my case at the peak only, which makes sense), the motor will continue to rise in RPM faster than the clutch, transmission, and thus wheels making the RPMs quickly rise without acceleration. They shouldnt decrease with a slip though it may seem that way if they quickly increase but then the clutch grabs a bit causing a decrease, it mainly looks like the clutch is stuttering which is similar to mine once it passes peak torque, grabs, lets go, grabs, lets go.

EvoRob22

1) Normal clutch where with the power you are putting out should be around 16K

2) I would recommend a twin disc (definitely if you plan on continuing to mod your car)

3) AMS would be the first shop I would recommend for you to take it too.

Good luck with your clutch.

wizzo 8

iTrader: (35)

2 of my buddys clutches went out and the normal rate just for labor was about 800-1000. Dealer wanted 1200 I think just for labor. Its not an easy job

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

That is not good... I have read through how to do it and it certainly was not an easy job. I have a considerable amount auto experience (I have installed a clutch before albeit matched to a Ford V8) and a lot of tools including a lift. I may just choose to do this myself.

Nonetheless, I am very surprise how quickly most people jump to the twin clutch. A Exedy Twin HD is only rated for 536ftlbs (road race) of torque for $1700 from AMS. A Fidanza 4.3 is rated for 599ftlbs of torque and is $390 from MAPerformance. Am I missing something or what is the massive advantage of the Exedy over a Fidanza? Perhaps something to do with the longevity of the product? Even the 3.2 is rated for 511ftlbs and was highly rated by EvoM and I believe SmikeEvo gave it a glowing review as well. I really cannot spend the money for a twin Exedy. I might be able to swing a twin Quartermaster or something like that as they are a chunk cheaper, but I am guessing you all do not think the quality on those items is up to the Exedy. I would really like to hear the pros and cons of the Fidanza 4.3/3.2 versus the Exedy Twin.

Thanks guys for the continued input! It is always appreciated.

Strictly Modified

iTrader: (20)

Evo clutch jobs are 10.1hrs book time. Depending on what your average shops labor rate is (for instance lets say $90) your looking at over $900 and that doesn't even include fluids. We have a standard labor rate for Evo clutch jobs of $550 for non ACD cars, to $575 for ACD. We do not under quote a job because we are trying to steal business away from other shops, we work on Evos here on a daily basis, we are very familiar with them and can get the job done in a timely fashion yet still provide a professional install. We just like to help the Evo community in anyway that we can.


Most would consider using the Exedy twin disk for many reasons, longevity, drivability, and not to mention the power that they are capable of holding. Many people will have different opinions, but you also have to take into consideration that people have different driving styles. In my personal opinion Exedy twins have been and will be the number one rated clutch for street/race applications. Thats just my opinion, the cost of the clutch is expensive but well worth it in the long run.

Protostar1 - Give me a call when you get a chance, we can sit down and go over some options for you.

- Cisco

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

ygpm

monkey_187

iTrader: (16)

AMS is very expensive and yes they do good work, but its not worth getting ripped off for a clutch job. Look around, I am from Chicago and I found a shop that would do the job for $475 including fluids. I was guaranteed my car the next day, too bad you dont want to spend the money. I was going to recommend Exedy twin, its the best I ever used!

Clutchdc5

iTrader: (1)

exedy twin, NEVER GOING BACK TO ANYTHING ELSE!

john.schuber

iTrader: (3)

Call AMS, they installed my clutch for $500 when I purchased the Exedy Stage II from them

R/TErnie

iTrader: (32)

Exedy twin HD - Cerametallic.
I would get the SS line and remove the hydaulic restrictor
I would also buy the STM slave cylinder stopper

Optionals... shifter bushings and front engine mount.

I've got amost 10k miles on my twin and I've got around 10 passes at the strip. I love it.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

I am considering the twin more... where do you guys recommend getting it from for the absolute best price. Maybe a used one and a $250 rebuild kit? Or is that a super pain in the *** to replace?

I am still hoping to do a single plate, so please give me recommendations for those if you guys have them.

Would you all recommend a lightweight flywheel? If so, what kind? I like the Fidanza one at 9.5lbs and a replaceable face element for $30.

Thanks guys for all of the input.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

How do you like the Stage II, from all accounts I have heard it is absolutely terrible to drive... which is unfortunate because it is about the perfect torque load and price.