well just finished my nisei licp install and wasn't that impressed ..installing wasn't hard just took the bumper out and rest was pretty easy. i was however afraid when tighting the clamps .. aluminum pipes felt like they were gonna get crushed.

i read 10whp gains but i guess a person not so sensitive like me can't really feel it.
i did however have weird idle and it went away the idle was bouncing 1.5k~1k up and down.

i was also gonna install the epm o2 dump but thought it would take too long. so i just helped my friend w/ an s2k do his tranny oil changes

i've searched for how to's on the o2 dump and it didn't easy. it says to take out the radiator for easy install. but when i tried i stripped the bolts holding the radiator braket. any other methods? I think i read some people saying take the turbo out. but cant seem to find a good how to on taking the turbo out. And
i'm kinda afraid to without a good how to on it, cuz for me murphys law seems to kick in everytime i do something new that i haven't tried. can anyone link me a good turbo removal and install w/ pics if there is one?

 

how did u read that 10whp btw?

 

LICP should gain ya a little spool. I have always perfered steel piping in turbo applications but Nisei is a nice piece and will work well

Good rule of thumb anytime you work on boost piping or lines a boost leak test is a must.

 

on the box

 

was searching for which licp to buy and people posting licp gains would be about 10whp..
i just assumed it would.. since this forum has people already with 1st hand experience with the nisei kit.

 

if you put the licp on and are having idle issues my guess is you have a leak at one of the couplers.

the clamps can go one pretty tight before they bend the pipe. so dont be a little girl and go tighten them clamps. if you dont you may pop the licp off the car. tighten it down until its tight. but not crushing the pipe. hard to explain.

 

i tightened them real good but was just afraid i'll crush them. i get what ur saying gonna ride it a few days and if it keeps doing the weird idle i guess i'll check for leaks

 

I love my Nisei LICP and like the idea of aluminum intercooler piping for multiple reasons, just don't be a He-Man with the t-bolts.

 

agreed. kevin at Nisei is also a great person to talk to. i run nisei upper and a custom made nisei lower all filling my Nisei fmic with lots and lots of power on its way to the TB. haha

 

alluminum pipes are good , but just like the other guy said, be carefull with how tight you fit the clamps. my bro. crushed a weapon R licp cuz he wasnt paying attention. good luck

 

Idle weird and going away can be explained. At idle your car is running in open loop meaning it is not using the O2 sensors to tell the PCM how much fuel to give the engine. Instead the PCM just resorts to the last long fuel trim from when your car was started up. Because you had more air going to the engine and less fuel you were running lean causing the weird idol. When the oxygen sensors became hot enough and car ran in close loop the PCM realised the system was lean, richened it up by adding fuel with short fuel trims. Once short fuel trims got the 02 sensor switching long fuel trim increased and short fuel trim went back down to 0. You shouldn't have a rough idol anymore due to the long fuel trim being compinsated for the LICP .

 

No reason to take out the turbo or radiator....I did my o2 housing with it all in the car. You just gotta be patient have alot of PB Blaster and prepare for bloody knuckles.

 

so the o2 dump just takes some patience and alot of time..

i ll try it out today and see how it goes...

 

I did it twice just recently, and this is what i did (u can use this as a ref if u like)

1) remove the intake
2) drain the radiator (after letting the engine cool for a while (2hrs))
3) take off the radiator fan, cuz u wont have much space to take it off with the radiator due to the ucip and other brackets in the way
4) release the downpipe from the o2 housing
5) unbolt the mannifold from the head
6) unbolt the manni from the hot side
7) release the o2 sensor switch from under the spark plug cover
8) release the hotside (o2 housing is still attached to it at this time) from the turbo via the v-band connection
9) Then try to pull the manni from the head while pushing down on teh turbo and trying to lift up away from teh hotside (it takes a lil while but u will eventualy get it)

then release the o2 sensor and o2 housing from the oem housing/hotside and reverse the process. i recommend using and soaking all the bolts with pb blaster or anything of that sort, then use nickle antisieze so incase u decide to do the same process down the road. have a good grip over ur sockets so u won't tear up any of the threads.

put everything back together in the same order and DON"T use the oem gasket if ur using an external dump tube setup cuz it will leak gasses. and use the gasket that is provided with the o2 housing and maybe use some of that copper gasket spray to be sure everything is sealing.

goodluck and hope this will give u an idea of what ur looking at doing. I might have missed few points here and there so do ur own dd as well.

 

well... i have tried to install the epm o2 dump. and was almost finished. does the stock downpipe bolt not match with the epm o2 dump?? the holes for the bolts on the EPM dump seem to be bigger. which bolt size do i need to have to get the downpipe installed to the epm o2 dump.. plz help