Change that fuel pump!
Originally posted by SILVER SURFER
Retail price for a new fuel filter assembly $412.36
Even the parts guys were like WTF!
Retail price for a new fuel filter assembly $412.36
Even the parts guys were like WTF!
Originally posted by MP5
They can french kiss my a$@ I will go aftermarket old school chasis mount mucle car inline filter
They can french kiss my a$@ I will go aftermarket old school chasis mount mucle car inline filter
Originally posted by strat
I'm afraid that you can't as the fuel must pass through the sealed unit first. If it is plugged you are... well you know.
I'm afraid that you can't as the fuel must pass through the sealed unit first. If it is plugged you are... well you know.
Originally posted by Mister2zx3
That means they get to spend more time servicing your car. Improves their bottom line...
That means they get to spend more time servicing your car. Improves their bottom line...
So I imagine they enjoy when a part is more serviceable on a given model as it means they can cram more "1 hour jobs" into an hour.
Labor Times, whether they are warranty labor or Chilton's times are set by having someone do the job 3-5 times the proper way, with all necessary tools and manuals at their disposal. The time it takes is averaged and used to pay the technicians from there on.
The manufacturers tend to use the people who work in their training positions, etc and stay true to the time.
Chiltons on the other hand tends to pad that time somewhat.
Factory times tend to be very accurate if you were doing the job to the letter for the first time.
We never used a Chilton book and even on cash jobs we would just bump warranty time a little to make it profitable. By bump, I only mean a 1.5 hour job might be bumped to 2 hours. All depends on the job.
The manufacturers tend to use the people who work in their training positions, etc and stay true to the time.
Chiltons on the other hand tends to pad that time somewhat.
Factory times tend to be very accurate if you were doing the job to the letter for the first time.
We never used a Chilton book and even on cash jobs we would just bump warranty time a little to make it profitable. By bump, I only mean a 1.5 hour job might be bumped to 2 hours. All depends on the job.
Originally posted by timzcat
Labor Times, whether they are warranty labor or Chilton's times are set by having someone do the job 3-5 times the proper way, with all necessary tools and manuals at their disposal. The time it takes is averaged and used to pay the technicians from there on.
The manufacturers tend to use the people who work in their training positions, etc and stay true to the time.
Chiltons on the other hand tends to pad that time somewhat.
Factory times tend to be very accurate if you were doing the job to the letter for the first time. We never used a Chilton book and even on cash jobs we would just bump warranty time a little to make it profitable. By bump, I only mean a 1.5 hour job might be bumped to 2 hours. All depends on the job.
Labor Times, whether they are warranty labor or Chilton's times are set by having someone do the job 3-5 times the proper way, with all necessary tools and manuals at their disposal. The time it takes is averaged and used to pay the technicians from there on.
The manufacturers tend to use the people who work in their training positions, etc and stay true to the time.
Chiltons on the other hand tends to pad that time somewhat.
Factory times tend to be very accurate if you were doing the job to the letter for the first time. We never used a Chilton book and even on cash jobs we would just bump warranty time a little to make it profitable. By bump, I only mean a 1.5 hour job might be bumped to 2 hours. All depends on the job.
For the first time I'm going to have to disagree with you highly. I'm much more mechanically inclined than the average person is, but not that damn much. I find that the dealer pads the 0.5 to 1.0 hr jobs the most. Guess that makes sense when your in the business of making money. I'll site an example when I'm not hung over and peering through the morning goop in my eyes...
Warranty times can't be padded because they are set by the manufacturer and that is all the dealer gets paid.
BTW I worked in a dealership for 9 years, have seen it done at the factory. (time setting) and had a friend who used to do them and training videos for another manufacturer.
BTW I worked in a dealership for 9 years, have seen it done at the factory. (time setting) and had a friend who used to do them and training videos for another manufacturer.
I don't know about the Evo application yet... but if I remember right, for the Acura R there was the Walbro GS342 and and GS317... high pressure being the former and low pressure being the latter. What does this mean to the Evo owner you ask? The prefix of letters usually denoted the "installation kit" for the same two pumps. You will still probably see the 342 and 317 255 liter pumps sold for the Evo, just with different additional hardware.
I think I saw somewhere that the Evo pump was the GSS342, but can't remember (it happens to us old folks). Hell, I could have those numbers backwards...
I think I saw somewhere that the Evo pump was the GSS342, but can't remember (it happens to us old folks). Hell, I could have those numbers backwards...
Last edited by Zeus; Nov 2, 2003 at 05:56 PM.
If you uprgade the pump, more then likely you will need a new FPR.
It looks to be the same problem as the 2G's had with the upgraded pump.
The stock FPR is TINY, and if you up the volume or boost, well the FPR cannot retun the fuel back fast enough, so base FP builds and you have too much fuel. You alos lose the rising rate feature.
Basically, the stock FP on a 2G is or shoudl be 43PSI, drops to about 36 with vaccume, and then rises 1PSI per 1PSi of boost, like it should, now add a BIG pump, Base FP, jumps to say 50PSI, like it did on my 2G, so I had to lean it out at idle, I also didn't get the rising rate feature until BIG boost hit, which fuct up my tuning.
Again I do not see changing the FP until big mods, it is a 195LPH unit, more then enough to support the 16G, maxes out at around 400WHP.
DB has it going at 360WHP, pump gas.
Maybe these dips or detonation are from bad gas or bad tuning?
It looks to be the same problem as the 2G's had with the upgraded pump.
The stock FPR is TINY, and if you up the volume or boost, well the FPR cannot retun the fuel back fast enough, so base FP builds and you have too much fuel. You alos lose the rising rate feature.
Basically, the stock FP on a 2G is or shoudl be 43PSI, drops to about 36 with vaccume, and then rises 1PSI per 1PSi of boost, like it should, now add a BIG pump, Base FP, jumps to say 50PSI, like it did on my 2G, so I had to lean it out at idle, I also didn't get the rising rate feature until BIG boost hit, which fuct up my tuning.
Again I do not see changing the FP until big mods, it is a 195LPH unit, more then enough to support the 16G, maxes out at around 400WHP.
DB has it going at 360WHP, pump gas.
Maybe these dips or detonation are from bad gas or bad tuning?
Your fighting a dead issue when it comes to the Evo... there are more than a few dynos floating around, and many more testimonials of how an upgraded pump has cleaned up the top end. Can you make a lot more power on the OE? Yes, but it seems that the upgraded pump makes it much smoother, and consistent. Would a better flowing FPR help matters? Probably, not in the original sense of an adjustable unit though... The majority of Evo owners demand more precise control of the fuel than that.
Cool, More fule is always good in contolled amounts.
So the question is this...
Will a 255LPH Fuel pump OVER RUN the stock FPR, or will it need to be replaced? Anyone test the OEM FP at idle, then upgrade the pump, and then test it again to see if it is over run?
So the question is this...
Will a 255LPH Fuel pump OVER RUN the stock FPR, or will it need to be replaced? Anyone test the OEM FP at idle, then upgrade the pump, and then test it again to see if it is over run?