Well, I'm looking at intercooler pipes (upper and lower) and I wanted to know if there is anything I need to be aware of before purchasing. Do they normally come with all the vaccum hose nipples? If not do people usually add them to the new pipes or just creat new bypasses?

I'm looking at the Injen or the AMS pipes. The Injen is a lot cheaper and if does the job why pay more. Also the Injen does not require the smaller battery and I can't seem to find a matching Intake pipe for the AMS unit. Any thoughts or experience with this?

Thanks!

 

One thing I would take into account if you ever plan on running serious boost (25+psi) is that aluminum can collapse when trying to tighten t bolt clamps to stop an annoying boost leak. I accidentally did this on my AMS lower ICP and now I think I might have a permanent leak until I get a new one. Other than that, aluminum is much lighter and works nicely. If I do replace my lower ICP, I will go with stainless steel though.

 

Stay away from the Injen pipes, much nicer are available (Nisei, ETS, AMS, etc.). If you want to retain your stock battery then check out the ETS long-route UICP. I personally favor aluminum since its so much ligher and doesn't retain heat, but you do need to be careful not to over-torque t-bolt clamps.

 

why stay away from injen pipes?

give him some proof... just because they cost less doesnt mean they're less efficient...

 

Stainless steel all the way. T-Bolt clamps WILL crush aluminum piping if they are a thin enough gauge. The weight difference is meniscule. I've heard aluminum dissipates heat better but you gotta think the iat's aren't going to be any hotter than the engine bay heat so the temp's inside and outside of the pipe aren't allowing for much heat transfer.

There's not much gain going to hard pipes on the uicp. Where you'll see the gain is the shorter route, which really only improves spoolup 100 rpms or so. Believe it or not, there ARE gains by straightening the bend from the throttle body further out towards the battery. The kits that require the small battery or no battery are helping you out on power.

 

Would you mind elaborating whats wrong with the Injen setup? It fits the stock battery and are aluminum...I have heard they are quite good besides having a less than ideal filter and LICP necking down.

All those kits above require a small battery...some of us live where it gets 0 degrees and I tell you right now almost all those small batteries will not start an evo after it's been sitting a week.

 

The injen setup on the lower pipe reduces down to 1.8" on the 90 degree bend. This is very restrictive. We use a 2.5" on the bend and found a gain of 7whp.

Michael

 

ETS all the way

 

Take a picture of your ic pipe and the injen, i bet he wont even tell the difference.

7whp? would you please show that dyno sheet, before and after.

Not trying to hate on ETS, i love ETS sick company, i just wanna see if i should get thr pipe xP

 

+1

 

You should just get the ETS pipe.

 

I can bet thr isnt a horsepower change.

on a stock evo i can make 230w and 237w... its all about the tune, i want some proof of logs before and after.

 

I don't have an injen pipe in stock, but here you can see the difference.



You will see the injen lower pipe to the left of the pic.

Here is the ETS lower pipe vs stock as well.



as you can see from the pics, the ETS is 2.5" from start to finish. The Injen reduces down to 1.8" around a 90 degree bend. This is very restrictive.

Thanks!

Michael

 

You can read our full Tech Report on the LP2 here.

http://www.extremeturbosystems.com/p...ceo726kq2fn1d4

Thanks!

Michael

 

I had the injen kit on my Evo 8 and it was decent.