ill be doing a clutch soon.....what else should i get...
ill be doing a clutch soon.....what else should i get...
im already going to be in there so. im going to do...
clutch kit.
resurface the flywheel
bottom trans mount.(since i gotta pull it out anyhow)
just trying to see if there is anything else i should get out of the way since ill have everything out already.
clutch kit.
resurface the flywheel
bottom trans mount.(since i gotta pull it out anyhow)
just trying to see if there is anything else i should get out of the way since ill have everything out already.
I would feel less confident with a resurfaced stocker. Have you ever seen what happens when a flywheel comes apart in an evo? There was a thread about it a few months ago. It pretty much totaled the car.
I've also heard from a few guys about the fidanza aluminum/steel flywheels coming apart or having the ring gear separate from the flywheel.
Get a 1 piece steel flywheel or go with the resurfaced stocker if you must.
Get an OEM throwout bearing. It's too important of a part to mess around with anything else. There have been problems with aftermarket suppliers getting substandard bearings shipped with their kits. That's what has started this whole "get an oem bearing" thing. Some people have ended up with noisy bearings or bearings that fail soon after a new clutch install. OEM ones seem to last consistently and stay quiet.
The theory on the stainless steel clutch line is a rubber line has a certain amount of give to it when it's pressurized resulting in a slight delay in fluid action as the hose bulges and goes back to normal size during clutch disengagement. This results in a spongy feel and less immediate response on the clutch pedal. A stainless steel braided line has the cover over it to help it resist blowing up during pressurization and resulting in a stiffer more responsive feel to the clutch pedal. Another side benefit is a stainless braided line is going to be more rugged and be less prone be being rubbed through, burst, or cut in it's lifetime.
There is a restriction pill at the clutch slave cylinder that actuates the fork arm on the tranny. It's right where the line goes in. It can be accessed and removed by removing the clutch line from the slave cylinder. Refer to the how to section in the forums. It's just a tiny orifice that restricts the flow of fluid in and out of the slave cylinder. It limits the engagement/disengagement speed of the clutch by forcing all the fluid through a very small opening. Once the restriction is gone the fluid can flow faster and more freely from the slave cylinder. This causes a more responsive clutch better able to release quicker and respond directly to pedal input. When you combine it with the steel line upgrade it noticeably improves the clutch pedal feel.
There are some negative effects to removing the restrictor. The mechanical fork that actually moves the TOB now responds so well it can be prone to moving too far and popping the TOB out of the pressure plate while you're driving around. Many people have had problems with this. It results in the whole tranny/tcase/clutch assembly having to be taken apart and put back together again.
To avoid this something called a "fork stop" for the transmission has been devised and is now on the market. I've been meaning to pick one up myself. A quick search on here or google can provide a link on where to purchase one or someone might be kind enough to post one.
You must do a fluid change on at least the tranny and tcase. Make sure you have fluid for each to replace what is in it. There's no reason not to get enough for the tcase to do the rear end as well while you're at it. They take the same fluid and each is less than 1 quart to fill, cheap insurance.
I recommend amsoil severe gear 75-90 GL5 for the tcase and rear end. Amsoil MTG 75-90 GL4 for the tranny.
I've also heard from a few guys about the fidanza aluminum/steel flywheels coming apart or having the ring gear separate from the flywheel.
Get a 1 piece steel flywheel or go with the resurfaced stocker if you must.
Get an OEM throwout bearing. It's too important of a part to mess around with anything else. There have been problems with aftermarket suppliers getting substandard bearings shipped with their kits. That's what has started this whole "get an oem bearing" thing. Some people have ended up with noisy bearings or bearings that fail soon after a new clutch install. OEM ones seem to last consistently and stay quiet.
The theory on the stainless steel clutch line is a rubber line has a certain amount of give to it when it's pressurized resulting in a slight delay in fluid action as the hose bulges and goes back to normal size during clutch disengagement. This results in a spongy feel and less immediate response on the clutch pedal. A stainless steel braided line has the cover over it to help it resist blowing up during pressurization and resulting in a stiffer more responsive feel to the clutch pedal. Another side benefit is a stainless braided line is going to be more rugged and be less prone be being rubbed through, burst, or cut in it's lifetime.
There is a restriction pill at the clutch slave cylinder that actuates the fork arm on the tranny. It's right where the line goes in. It can be accessed and removed by removing the clutch line from the slave cylinder. Refer to the how to section in the forums. It's just a tiny orifice that restricts the flow of fluid in and out of the slave cylinder. It limits the engagement/disengagement speed of the clutch by forcing all the fluid through a very small opening. Once the restriction is gone the fluid can flow faster and more freely from the slave cylinder. This causes a more responsive clutch better able to release quicker and respond directly to pedal input. When you combine it with the steel line upgrade it noticeably improves the clutch pedal feel.
There are some negative effects to removing the restrictor. The mechanical fork that actually moves the TOB now responds so well it can be prone to moving too far and popping the TOB out of the pressure plate while you're driving around. Many people have had problems with this. It results in the whole tranny/tcase/clutch assembly having to be taken apart and put back together again.
To avoid this something called a "fork stop" for the transmission has been devised and is now on the market. I've been meaning to pick one up myself. A quick search on here or google can provide a link on where to purchase one or someone might be kind enough to post one.
You must do a fluid change on at least the tranny and tcase. Make sure you have fluid for each to replace what is in it. There's no reason not to get enough for the tcase to do the rear end as well while you're at it. They take the same fluid and each is less than 1 quart to fill, cheap insurance.
I recommend amsoil severe gear 75-90 GL5 for the tcase and rear end. Amsoil MTG 75-90 GL4 for the tranny.
Last edited by JohnDoe1984; Dec 13, 2009 at 05:14 PM.
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JohnDoe1984 thanks for the book.lol , no but really.thanks. im 100% going to trust my flywheels thats been good for 52,000 miles. it will not blow threw my hood. id trust this flywheels thats been in every evo since..... god knows when. vs an aftermarket... the flywheel being cut does not make it any weaker. have you ever seen a STOCK flywheel shoot threw the trans? everything else is oem. clutch included. i dont own my car, launch it ever. ect. i drive it. doing a stock clutch/p$p/ tob. resurface fly. im going to probably leave the pill in there. i havent really had any problems with the clutch setup as of now. so " if it aint broke dont fix it"
I'm confused on which mount you are referring to, and why you are looking to replace it
The mounts we have are the front (lower), cam-side, trans (top), and the rear mount. On a street car, the only one that I've heard that was beneficial to replace was the front mount with a roll stopper (Blox, AMS, Beatrush, etc.)
The mounts we have are the front (lower), cam-side, trans (top), and the rear mount. On a street car, the only one that I've heard that was beneficial to replace was the front mount with a roll stopper (Blox, AMS, Beatrush, etc.)
If the car is stock, your set-up will be fine. Just change the Trans fluid and Transfer fluid while your there, with factory fluids. You can do the clutch without dropping the subframe, but it is easy to drop and worth it !
If you ever plan on upgrading your car, the factory clutch will not hold in high rpm's and engages slow causing damage to your tranny.
If you ever plan on upgrading your car, the factory clutch will not hold in high rpm's and engages slow causing damage to your tranny.
If the car is stock, your set-up will be fine. Just change the Trans fluid and Transfer fluid while your there, with factory fluids. You can do the clutch without dropping the subframe, but it is easy to drop and worth it !
If you ever plan on upgrading your car, the factory clutch will not hold in high rpm's and engages slow causing damage to your tranny.
If you ever plan on upgrading your car, the factory clutch will not hold in high rpm's and engages slow causing damage to your tranny.
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I read it somewhere on this forum? The OEM clutch kit not being "high performance" and having major issues, made the flywheel idea credible? Something about the OEM flywheel not being able to divert enough heat from the disc causing the disc to warp and bend. 
Please do correct me if I am mis-informed 
Please do correct me if I am mis-informed
I read it somewhere on this forum? The OEM clutch kit not being "high performance" and having major issues, made the flywheel idea credible? Something about the OEM flywheel not being able to divert enough heat from the disc causing the disc to warp and bend. Please do correct me if I am mis-informed
Please do correct me if I am mis-informed - oem fluids have been used since day1. i plan on staying on this track aswell