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evo ix build

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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 08:42 PM
  #1  
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evo ix build

Hello guys I'm starting my build sometime next week since I'm taking some vacation for the holidays. I thought this might be the perfect time to start my build because when I go back to work I won't have as much time. With that said, I have a few questions and I need some help.

I need to know what I'm missing to get this bottom end builded , The head will remain stock for now except Cosworth M3's and spring and retainers. Also, My goal is to make 700whp I already have a custom HTA3586 turbo kit which currently is making 580whp@ 34 psi on E-85 on stock block (I know 580 is not safe that's why I'm building it ) . Below is a list of the parts I already have to build the bottom end what else do I need ?

-Manley turbo "tuff" Rod
-JE Pistons 10:1 compression for E-85 .20 Overbore
-Arp Main studs (new)
-Arp head studs (new)
-Oem oil pump (new)
-BR Balance shaft remover kit.
-Oem Engine Gasket kit
- timing belt was replaced 5000 miles ago!!

-Water pump I want to reuse the
one I have on my car it has 25K on it
what you guys say?

-Bearings ( I want to use the Acl Tri-Metal bearings But I dont Know what zize I suppose is the standar but I want to confirm this before I purchase them?

I have most of the the parts I need, If you guys Know anything else that i need In order to build this bottom end let m know thanks .

Last edited by Dragking2189; Dec 18, 2009 at 08:45 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 10:27 PM
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Why 10:1? Just curious. Water pump, timing belt, tensioner I would replace all that regardless of mileage.. Better to be safe than sorry. I know you wouldn't want to go back and replace all that stuff all over again. ;-)
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 10:58 PM
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I'm going 10:1 because I've done numerous research 10:1 and e85 are a good combo to making good power.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 11:02 PM
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Good deal.. Wish I had e85 close to me I'd probably be happy with the stock turbo numbers :P
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 11:13 PM
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Oh yeah, e85 is awsome I've been using it for 1 year already and never had a problem It was worth every penny to make the swith. I've seen stock turbo evos making 400's without cams with cams and other bolt on easy 450.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 12:19 AM
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Yep.. Exactly what I want Seriously though, i'd do normal maintenance stuff when you do your build.. Good luck with it post up some results! Be nice to see another 600+ hp evo on the e85 army.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 12:57 AM
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From: southcal
i have build over 20 evo engines and i will recommend acl racing bearings, those ***** can survive a lot of abuse!
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by javicracer
i have build over 20 evo engines and i will recommend acl racing bearings, those ***** can survive a lot of abuse!
thanks man for you info should I use satandard zize ? BTW can I reuse My water pump it has 25k on it ?
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 07:33 PM
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acl are great bearings. In order to figure out the size that you will need. You will first have to tear down your block. At 25XXX miles your motor should be in perfect shape as long as you havent spun any bearings or anything like that. You should have your crank balanced and checked to make sure all journals are within factory spec. If there are any scores on the crank journals you will need to have the journal machined or "turned" this is the only reason that you will need oversized bearings or anything over stock. I would also grab a full engine gasket kit and you should be good to go. I am doing a build on an evo 9 this winter also. good luck to you keep us all posted and let us know. Water pump should be just fine. Pump should last to 100,000 miles even though the factory recomends changing it at 60,000-70,000. Keep it posted.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 08:22 PM
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You won't know what size bearings are needed until the block and crank are checked at the machine shop. List looks good to me but might want to use L19 head studs over the standard arps and I would throw in a kevlar t-belt and new water pump.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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Thanks guys for the info I will start taking pics and posting soon
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 05:51 PM
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I would go with ARP main bolts instead if studs. Studs are stronger but require more machine work.
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