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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 06:42 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by kouzman
a completely stock block and head cannot rev to 9K safely. PERIOD!

As said before, you need preferably a built block and a good valvetrain that can support such revs... both your bottom end and upper end can suffer... and of course it is suggested to stay 2.0....

My choice was powerful yet lightweight bottom end (Wiseco 1400hd, Carrillos with carr bolts, acl everything, fully balanced, removed balance shafts, fluidampr damper for vibrations, and Supertech dual springs, ti retainers, cossie cams and o-ringed head.
I'm getting the same pistons with a 10.5 to 1 compression ratio and beehive springs to go with my fp4r cams. what turbo are you running? also what rpm is your peak power at now and what dyno numbers ?
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 07:21 PM
  #17  
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Chris Cessna's stock block RS was giving 9K RPM's high fives like it was her job, and never once skipped a beat. I've seen that car run multiple 146+ mph passes. Still ran perfect the day she was taken out to be Buschurfied I also believe the Ricer was going somewhere around 8500-9000 also before a built motor.

http://www.youtube.com/user/STMtuned#p/u/9/C8khBrvePKo

It may not be recommended, but it doesn't hurt to push science's boundaries every now and again
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 11:23 AM
  #18  
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can u rev to 9k, sure.....but how many times and how long?? cuz sooner or later that kinda speeds ur valves and pistons can see each other then its like the crips and the bloods in a bar, all hell can break loose at any moment haha....but some people push the envelope with boostin over 30 psi on stock head studs, same kinda thing...u wanna push it sometimes the car pushes back and say **** off buy me new parts haha
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 11:40 AM
  #19  
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There is really no point.....you can make lots of power by 8200 depending on set up....hell, with a black you'd be ok reving to 7500.
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #20  
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Depend on your overall setup. But your motor should be fine reving to 9k. The question is what turbo will u be using? Even a black will be running out of breath by 9k depending on setup.
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 08:05 PM
  #21  
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Blacks run out WAAAAAAYYYYYYY before 9K. You're in 6765 territory or GT3586.....
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 06:47 PM
  #22  
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As said above, we have done it. I would not suggest it but it needed to be done to trap 150.


-Em
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 08:27 PM
  #23  
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I wouldn't suggest 9k on a built motor all of the time. You're still going to need to replace bearings at around 25-30k. If this is your street car I don't know why you'd need to rev out 9k all day, but whatever if you've got the coin go for it.

My suggestion is to run Ferrea or Man
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 12:21 PM
  #24  
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From: 41° 59' N, 87° 54' W
Originally Posted by Force-Fed Performance
yea i knew that, we were just talking the other day when doing 3rd gear dyno pulls it takes forever for them to hit 9k
The car is trying to tell you that it needs more power.

l8r)
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 06:51 PM
  #25  
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hi guys a workshop here in australia, sydney has said if i want to be able to rev it safely to 9k that i would need solid lifters? Is this true or are the standard lifters fine. I remember reading somewhere here that the standard lifters were fine.

I understand that the turbo setup will not make peak power at 9000rpm. The only time i would be reving it up to 9000rpm would be on the 1/4 mile to pass the line in 4th. Other than that i would rarely be hitting 9000rpm.

(valvetrain is done with supertech duals, ti retainers, gsc s2 and bottom end is a built MAP 2L)

Thanks!
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 08:17 PM
  #26  
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Well I've gone way past 9K rpms on the stock long block and turbo unintentionally. Twice to be exact at the track.

Long story short I was experiment with WOT shifting, took 2nd gear to 7500 rpms and accidentally shifted back into 1st. Rpms shot way past 9k rpms! Coasted down the rest of the way of the track until I got off to the parking spots and inspected the car. Everything was fine and went back to do another run and did the same thing second time! Clutch started acting a little weird, it probably couldnt hold it and slipped.

Later I did a compression check on the motor and all was well with all the cylinders. I was running a 6 puck ceramic sprung clutch and later changed it because it started chattering a little more and didnt feel right. During the change I saw that there was material that broke off in chunks.

Well anyways that was a few years ago when my car had under 20k miles on it. Now I have 44900 miles and still running good (knock on wood).

I'm assuming the low compression (piston to valve) clearance is what may have saved the pistons from touching the valves. I'm pretty sure that at that level of rpms the valves did float.
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 11:27 AM
  #27  
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the point is that problem not in block, the problem is in tranny its very hard to change the gear at 9k RPM unless you use dogbox
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 09:43 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 4ukc
the point is that problem not in block, the problem is in tranny its very hard to change the gear at 9k RPM unless you use dogbox
Shifting at high RPM is has more to do with the clutch.
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Old Apr 5, 2019 | 01:23 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by PlanoEvo
Well a long time has passed since I first asked this question. Threw a rod not related to rpm though. Getting a map stage2 10.5 CR ultimate duty rods beehive springs ported everything to go with previous fp4r cams. E85 build I should be able to safely rev 9k.
I know this was a long time ago but how did the map ultimate duty rods work out for you? Any pros or cons would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 08:07 PM
  #30  
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From: DFW
His last activity was almost five years ago and this thread almost seven. Are you looking at the MAP rods? Have you started a new thread about your build goals or the rods? I must have missed it.
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