9000rpm
#16
a completely stock block and head cannot rev to 9K safely. PERIOD!
As said before, you need preferably a built block and a good valvetrain that can support such revs... both your bottom end and upper end can suffer... and of course it is suggested to stay 2.0....
My choice was powerful yet lightweight bottom end (Wiseco 1400hd, Carrillos with carr bolts, acl everything, fully balanced, removed balance shafts, fluidampr damper for vibrations, and Supertech dual springs, ti retainers, cossie cams and o-ringed head.
As said before, you need preferably a built block and a good valvetrain that can support such revs... both your bottom end and upper end can suffer... and of course it is suggested to stay 2.0....
My choice was powerful yet lightweight bottom end (Wiseco 1400hd, Carrillos with carr bolts, acl everything, fully balanced, removed balance shafts, fluidampr damper for vibrations, and Supertech dual springs, ti retainers, cossie cams and o-ringed head.
#17
Evolving Member
iTrader: (20)
Chris Cessna's stock block RS was giving 9K RPM's high fives like it was her job, and never once skipped a beat. I've seen that car run multiple 146+ mph passes. Still ran perfect the day she was taken out to be Buschurfied I also believe the Ricer was going somewhere around 8500-9000 also before a built motor.
http://www.youtube.com/user/STMtuned#p/u/9/C8khBrvePKo
It may not be recommended, but it doesn't hurt to push science's boundaries every now and again
http://www.youtube.com/user/STMtuned#p/u/9/C8khBrvePKo
It may not be recommended, but it doesn't hurt to push science's boundaries every now and again
#18
Evolved Member
can u rev to 9k, sure.....but how many times and how long?? cuz sooner or later that kinda speeds ur valves and pistons can see each other then its like the crips and the bloods in a bar, all hell can break loose at any moment haha....but some people push the envelope with boostin over 30 psi on stock head studs, same kinda thing...u wanna push it sometimes the car pushes back and say **** off buy me new parts haha
#23
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Mountain View, California
Posts: 720
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldn't suggest 9k on a built motor all of the time. You're still going to need to replace bearings at around 25-30k. If this is your street car I don't know why you'd need to rev out 9k all day, but whatever if you've got the coin go for it.
My suggestion is to run Ferrea or Man
My suggestion is to run Ferrea or Man
#25
hi guys a workshop here in australia, sydney has said if i want to be able to rev it safely to 9k that i would need solid lifters? Is this true or are the standard lifters fine. I remember reading somewhere here that the standard lifters were fine.
I understand that the turbo setup will not make peak power at 9000rpm. The only time i would be reving it up to 9000rpm would be on the 1/4 mile to pass the line in 4th. Other than that i would rarely be hitting 9000rpm.
(valvetrain is done with supertech duals, ti retainers, gsc s2 and bottom end is a built MAP 2L)
Thanks!
I understand that the turbo setup will not make peak power at 9000rpm. The only time i would be reving it up to 9000rpm would be on the 1/4 mile to pass the line in 4th. Other than that i would rarely be hitting 9000rpm.
(valvetrain is done with supertech duals, ti retainers, gsc s2 and bottom end is a built MAP 2L)
Thanks!
#26
Evolved Member
iTrader: (69)
Well I've gone way past 9K rpms on the stock long block and turbo unintentionally. Twice to be exact at the track.
Long story short I was experiment with WOT shifting, took 2nd gear to 7500 rpms and accidentally shifted back into 1st. Rpms shot way past 9k rpms! Coasted down the rest of the way of the track until I got off to the parking spots and inspected the car. Everything was fine and went back to do another run and did the same thing second time! Clutch started acting a little weird, it probably couldnt hold it and slipped.
Later I did a compression check on the motor and all was well with all the cylinders. I was running a 6 puck ceramic sprung clutch and later changed it because it started chattering a little more and didnt feel right. During the change I saw that there was material that broke off in chunks.
Well anyways that was a few years ago when my car had under 20k miles on it. Now I have 44900 miles and still running good (knock on wood).
I'm assuming the low compression (piston to valve) clearance is what may have saved the pistons from touching the valves. I'm pretty sure that at that level of rpms the valves did float.
Long story short I was experiment with WOT shifting, took 2nd gear to 7500 rpms and accidentally shifted back into 1st. Rpms shot way past 9k rpms! Coasted down the rest of the way of the track until I got off to the parking spots and inspected the car. Everything was fine and went back to do another run and did the same thing second time! Clutch started acting a little weird, it probably couldnt hold it and slipped.
Later I did a compression check on the motor and all was well with all the cylinders. I was running a 6 puck ceramic sprung clutch and later changed it because it started chattering a little more and didnt feel right. During the change I saw that there was material that broke off in chunks.
Well anyways that was a few years ago when my car had under 20k miles on it. Now I have 44900 miles and still running good (knock on wood).
I'm assuming the low compression (piston to valve) clearance is what may have saved the pistons from touching the valves. I'm pretty sure that at that level of rpms the valves did float.
#28
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Fayetteville, N.C.
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#29
Evolving Member
I know this was a long time ago but how did the map ultimate duty rods work out for you? Any pros or cons would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.