My oem clutch was slipping so bad at 56k miles that it was almost undriveable. I checked around and found a great deal on a Competition Clutch Stage 4, 6 puck sprung kit. I'll definitely have some room to grow with this clutch. Right now, I am mildly modded with bolt ons and putting down 271whp on a dyno dynamics dyno.

I took my car to Zen Motors in Duluth, GA to have the clutch swapped out. They gave me a fantastic deal on labor since they are running a winter special on labor. Tray, Dan, and Chris did an excellent job getting my car back into tip top shape. I also had them change out my tranny fluids. All I can say is that my car feels so strong with this clutch! I stalled it a couple of times getting used to the "on-off" clutch engagement, lol. It feels so strong, even at my power level. I want to give a big thanks to all the guys at Zen! I will write a follow up review once she is properly broken in.

 

terrible choice. go with a full face clutch. i went with another stock one. if you dont launch the car 24-7 youll be fine. its lasted you and me above 50k. so there you go. ($310shipped)

 

It's probably the best deal around and it will hold much more HP than stock. If you plan on taking your modding further it's a decent choice IMO. I do agree though that a full face is probably better but not another stocker though, not in a modified ride anyway. The Comp stage 3 is a full face kevlar with a similar load rating to the stage 4 you got. That's what I have and it's working great so far. It holds like a champ. I think I have close to 3,000 miles on her.

Kevlar is a great clutch material because you can glaze it or cook the surface with a bad launch or shift and it doesn't destroy the underlying material. Full face clutches are better daily drivers with smoother engagement and more built for long life. 6 pucks are race clutches meant to grab and shift fast at high rpms with no concern for high mileage longevity or smooth engagement.

 

agreed a full face would have been a better choice but not the pos stock one

 

The Comp Stage 3 and 4 are both good daily-driver clutch choices. I have a Stage 3 full-face Kevlar in my car and have driven a few cars with the Stage 4 ceramic 6-puck which is definitely more grabby, but nothing unreasonable for a modified street car. The Kevlar full-face disc will last longer though which is why I love the Stage 3 for daily-driven cars that see a lot of miles.

 

Why do the 6 puck clutches not last as long? And just how long do they last? It is grabby but very manageable for a modified car like the Evo. I don't beat on my car every day, so why shouldn't it last?

 

for myself, i'll have mine this spring in the car... it's ACT MB7HDG6 and an flywheel streetlite...

- Description: "ACT CLUTCH KIT -- Offers Clamp Load Increase Of 41%, 651 ft.-lbs. Torque Capacity, Pedal Feels Stock To Moderate, SFI Certified To Insure Safety, Recommended For Road Racing And High Power Street, Delivers Increased Torque Capacity And Spline Life, Very Good Durability, Quiet Operation, Reduced Driveline Shock, Includes Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, 6 Pad Xtreme Spring Centered Race Disc, Race Bearing, And Alignment Tool, With ACT's Limited 90-Day Warranty"

 

You can built a clutch for different purposes and they are. A clutch built for a daily driven street car gives a certain consideration to mileage. People want a clutch to last 50-75k miles. They don't necessarily need to hold back massive horsepower or take track style abuse. They're made to grab gently for smooth engagement and longevity.

6 pucks are race built clutches. They are built to grab hard. The materials they are built out of have a high friction and do not like to slip much. The reason there's pucks instead of a full disk is to keep the heat down, the spaces between friction surfaces allow air to cool it down, but also because the material used in the pucks is so grabby a full face of it isn't needed. Race drivers aren't concerned about a clutch that lasts 50k miles. Race clutches just don't give a lot of consideration to high mileage. Race vehicles get more frequent service and parts like clutches aren't expected to last forever.

They're not meant to slip so if you daily drive one around and slip first gear a lot to pull in and out of parking spots and start off nice and slow you'll wear it out prematurely. I think no matter how you drive it a 6 puck isn't going to last near as long as a full face clutch.

There was a good video linked once from youtube I tried to find that had a rep from fidanza explaining the difference between six pucks, full disks, and the materials in each.

 

Less actual friction material and different materials. I'm not saying your clutch is going to wear out in a month or anything, and a lot of the longevity will be based on how you drive it. Just remember its not a clutch designed to be slipped so practice your footwork and get off the clutch pedal as quickly as possible (while still engaging it smoothly of course, you don't need to give yourself brain damage from jerkiness).

 

i think i've got a Competition based Clutch, i got a custom one built here in New Zealand.
It's 6 Puk, with a material called "FiberTuff", which is a kevlar/carbon derivative. It engages smoothly, and isn't hard to drive at all.
I'm using a 4500lb pressure plate to go with it, stock pedal feel.
I'm was getting really bad lockout from 1st to 2nd gear, but i've adjusted the clutch pedal and it's much better. But i think it still needs a little bit more throw on the slave cylinder to completely get rid of it.

Cheers, Mike

 

After having the clutch for around 1k miles, I can hoestly say that I made a great choice! I really like this clutch. The first couple of weeks were interesting while I broke the clutch in because I had to get used to it. Now, I really like the way it feels. Great bang for the buck IMHO.

 

Awesome! This is my next clutch.

 

Just an issue Im facing with one and curious if any of you guys might have had the same. I installed the stage 4 CC and everything went back in great. After driving from Arkansas to Georiga I decided to see what the clutch had. When I hit WOT in 3rd the around 57rpm the whole car jerked. I kept checking it out and anytime I go WOT the car jerks. After doing some research through the fourms Im coming to the conclusion the clutch is bad. Any thoughts?

 

i just got a stage 2 clutch for 100 bucks how do you think itll hold up to 300 whp

 

^ it should hold up fine just as long as u don't launch it often. that is still a better clutch compared to the stock one.