leaking boost??
I dunno about the fact that it's normal to experience blow by if the engine is warm. I just got done doing a two step boost leak test. From the turbo inlet and from the upper intercooler pipe.
From the upper intercooler pipe, there is no audible air comming out of my valve cover but from the turbo inlet there is. This points to the turbo bearing leaking air. I am sure there is an acceptable tolerance there, but It leaks pretty good, like to where it's hard to build past 8-10psi, where with the upper IC pipe it's easy to build past 8-10psi.
Having said that, yes the air will leak down very slowly, but you shouldn't hear a rush of air out of the valve cover.
From the upper intercooler pipe, there is no audible air comming out of my valve cover but from the turbo inlet there is. This points to the turbo bearing leaking air. I am sure there is an acceptable tolerance there, but It leaks pretty good, like to where it's hard to build past 8-10psi, where with the upper IC pipe it's easy to build past 8-10psi.
Having said that, yes the air will leak down very slowly, but you shouldn't hear a rush of air out of the valve cover.
If you have that much blowby from testing at the turbo inlet your rings/seals are shot.
I agree you can test via the upper piping if you really want to stress test the throttle body / intake manifold area and bypass the valve cover, which can be annoying sometimes, but for the OP's sake he should be testing at the turbo inlet for now like every other normal boost leak tester does.
I agree you can test via the upper piping if you really want to stress test the throttle body / intake manifold area and bypass the valve cover, which can be annoying sometimes, but for the OP's sake he should be testing at the turbo inlet for now like every other normal boost leak tester does.
yes its normal if the seals are not warm, they will leak.. even new turbo seals. when the turbo gets hot the seals expand and you will have no leak than.. if you get into boost and you see a smoke screen behind your car, than you know your turbo is done for.. other than that you're good to go. Another way to tell if the seal is leaking is to inspect your intercooler piping inside for oil residue, if none don't worry about it.
also you cant build past 8-10psi through the turbo inlet? wow...... you need to address that, i doubt your car runs 11's anymore with it like that. my brand new motor that i only let idle 2 times for 5minutes even holds 35psi and takes a good minute to drop to zero even with a odd oring leak in the tb that mil.spec is currently fixing. (not tb shaft seal).
Last edited by fre; Jan 17, 2010 at 08:19 AM.
yes i understand when you pressurize the upper its still going to go into the motor through the intake manifold runners.
I doubt you have the smoke screen either or you would have already noticed it.. so you think even with that bad of a problem you can still run low 11's? i dont know.. either way 11.1 is awesome. what turbo you have?
can you hold more then 8-10 with the motor warm right after a pull? im willing to bet you can.
I doubt you have the smoke screen either or you would have already noticed it.. so you think even with that bad of a problem you can still run low 11's? i dont know.. either way 11.1 is awesome. what turbo you have?
can you hold more then 8-10 with the motor warm right after a pull? im willing to bet you can.
I am running a plain GT35R, AMS spec with the 5 bolt .63 a/r turbine housing.
I can build the boost past 8-10 with my compressor high enough, it will just leak very quickly out of the valve cover. I choose not to do high pressure boost leak checks, because I am paranoid of my tester becomming a leathal weapon
Leave out the turbo and it leaks very slowly out of my injector seals. I should also note that my boost controller is hooked directly to my compressor housing, so leaving out the turbo also leaves out the boost controller, but that couldn't be causing my valve cover leak anyway. Right now my logs are saying I hold 33 psi out to around 7400rpm and then taper pretty rapidly down to 28psi by 8000rpm and hold it out till 8500rpm.
What's funny is when I was only holding 31-32psi, dropping to 29, I had a huge boost leak with my EGR vacuum line being disconnected. As soon as I fixed that vacuum line, I noticed my boost shoot up to 35psi, dropping to 30psi. When I cranked the controller down to bring my boost back down the same huge drop remained.
I can build the boost past 8-10 with my compressor high enough, it will just leak very quickly out of the valve cover. I choose not to do high pressure boost leak checks, because I am paranoid of my tester becomming a leathal weapon
Leave out the turbo and it leaks very slowly out of my injector seals. I should also note that my boost controller is hooked directly to my compressor housing, so leaving out the turbo also leaves out the boost controller, but that couldn't be causing my valve cover leak anyway. Right now my logs are saying I hold 33 psi out to around 7400rpm and then taper pretty rapidly down to 28psi by 8000rpm and hold it out till 8500rpm.What's funny is when I was only holding 31-32psi, dropping to 29, I had a huge boost leak with my EGR vacuum line being disconnected. As soon as I fixed that vacuum line, I noticed my boost shoot up to 35psi, dropping to 30psi. When I cranked the controller down to bring my boost back down the same huge drop remained.
Last edited by fre; Jan 17, 2010 at 08:30 AM.
dont you smell fuel since the injectors are leaking? doesnt that concern you? rubber does tend to do wierd things in cold weather though. i guess it doesnt matter all that much about the turbo seal leaking as i thought it would, if youre still making almost the same power than id run it until you get the smoke screen.. its not like its going to hurt anything ( i wouldn't think)
As far as still running 11s, I guarantee I can still run low 11s as I varify every time I get on it with my AEM logs and dyno math. Still pushing the same WHP I did when I ran these times, except I might be down 10-20hp on the top end, due to the boost tapering off 5psi instead of the normal 2-3psi I use to get. Like I said, I think it might be the turbo finally on its way out. The turbo now has 75k on it, with over 400 1/4 mile passes, several auto cross passes and 11 hill climb passes on it over the 4 and a half years it has been on the car. The Forced Performance lady said the ball bearings will last forever, I am not sure I believe that. I guess I can always send it to them and have them tell me if it's shot.
damn id say you got your moneys worth out of that turbo than. I don't think the ball bearings would go bad either unless some kind of debris got in there or you starved them of oil.... the seals will go bad though. most people change the bearings though with the seals.. it only makes sense since its already apart.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




