Rear Diff Options - Power Oversteer Found Here
#725
Evolved Member
iTrader: (38)
Like when turning right from a stop light? I guess I'm having trouble picturing a scenario in normal driving where you would be accellerating hard out of a very tight turn.
The normal front diff (sometimes called the RS diff) is a helical style and there is nothing a shop can do to make it "work" any better. There are a few things that can be done to make it stronger, though. If you get near 100% weight transfer and your inside front tire does not have much traction, then the helical diff basically acts as an open diff and your inside front tire will start to spin. I don't see how you could really be doing this in "normal" driving, though . . .
The normal front diff (sometimes called the RS diff) is a helical style and there is nothing a shop can do to make it "work" any better. There are a few things that can be done to make it stronger, though. If you get near 100% weight transfer and your inside front tire does not have much traction, then the helical diff basically acts as an open diff and your inside front tire will start to spin. I don't see how you could really be doing this in "normal" driving, though . . .
#726
Like when turning right from a stop light? I guess I'm having trouble picturing a scenario in normal driving where you would be accellerating hard out of a very tight turn.
The normal front diff (sometimes called the RS diff) is a helical style and there is nothing a shop can do to make it "work" any better. There are a few things that can be done to make it stronger, though. If you get near 100% weight transfer and your inside front tire does not have much traction, then the helical diff basically acts as an open diff and your inside front tire will start to spin. I don't see how you could really be doing this in "normal" driving, though . . .
The normal front diff (sometimes called the RS diff) is a helical style and there is nothing a shop can do to make it "work" any better. There are a few things that can be done to make it stronger, though. If you get near 100% weight transfer and your inside front tire does not have much traction, then the helical diff basically acts as an open diff and your inside front tire will start to spin. I don't see how you could really be doing this in "normal" driving, though . . .
#727
Evolved Member
iTrader: (38)
normal driving - literally at a stop light, pulling out of driveway, etc, 90 degree turn, or like a u-turn, i can hear the tire sh-sh-sh-sh on the road. not EVERY time though, but that's why i'm wondering if it's broken. don't need to really be accelerating a lot for it to happen
#730
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iTrader: (11)
So, did the weir install last weekend., 8 disc. All is well, using amzoil. The rear end popped and clicked and jittered around corners. Added LSD fluid and that seemed to take care of everything except the jitter around corners. Thinking I need to move to diaqueen oem. Questions is--for those using the daiqueen, does the car get a slight vibration ie jitter around corners as the clutches slip at low speed around corners or does this go away with oem--? Just those who know for a fact pls. Have to buy diaqueen by the gallon, and its too expensive to guess.
#731
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Florida
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For those that care-- Finally just bought Diaqueen and just put it in this morning. Took it for a spin-- So, this is the stuff, No other additives. No jittering around corners no other noise, a lot less noise on deceleration-- Just what I was looking for. Now, I like Amsoil and have used it everywhere--have to say that nothing comapres to OEM with the clutch job done on the rear end though.
#734
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
I found a video that gives a really good demonstration of how well TRE's diff works... hope this isn't a repost. http://vimeo.com/6554681
enjoy.
enjoy.