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Car stall after boost gauge installed.

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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 07:19 PM
  #16  
Evoryder's Avatar
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did you use the grommet on the passenger side? You probably pinched/shorted a line directly to the ecu. Check the fuses under the hood also. One may be blown.
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 07:52 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Evoryder
did you use the grommet on the passenger side? You probably pinched/shorted a line directly to the ecu. Check the fuses under the hood also. One may be blown.
I didn't use the grommet , I didn't think it was needed.
what fuse would that be?
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 05:12 AM
  #18  
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^ how did you get into the cabin for your gauge?
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 03:04 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Evoryder
^ how did you get into the cabin for your gauge?
a hole on the fire wall before the steering boot. Same as the web link provided.
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 03:12 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Charlie-Y

But something went wrong , after driving off the drive way and into 1st gear
at 25k rpm the car stall, .
Think reving your car to 25k rpm was your problem. Not too sure tho
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 03:44 PM
  #21  
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Very strange...one thing i can tell you from experience is that each time i disconnect and reconnect my battery, my car idles funny for a little while after. rpms drop very low (as low as 500) inbetween shifts, if i rev up and let off throttle, or if i shift to neutral while coasting to stop. it only does this for the first few times i drive the car after reconnecting the batt. if you go for a few short drives, shut off the car each time, it resolves itself after 4-5 times shutting off and restarting the car. your other symptoms are really wierd tho. hopefully ur ecu is just being funky cus you disconnected the batt. CHECK EVERYTHING you messed with during the install and use zip ties around ur t-fitting if u havent already. i doubt ur ignition timing has been altered by installing a boost gauge. if all else fails u may have to go to a tuner
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 04:21 PM
  #22  
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Talking

Originally Posted by YogSaahoth
Very strange...one thing i can tell you from experience is that each time i disconnect and reconnect my battery, my car idles funny for a little while after. rpms drop very low (as low as 500) inbetween shifts, if i rev up and let off throttle, or if i shift to neutral while coasting to stop. it only does this for the first few times i drive the car after reconnecting the batt. if you go for a few short drives, shut off the car each time, it resolves itself after 4-5 times shutting off and restarting the car. your other symptoms are really wierd tho. hopefully ur ecu is just being funky cus you disconnected the batt. CHECK EVERYTHING you messed with during the install and use zip ties around ur t-fitting if u havent already. i doubt ur ignition timing has been altered by installing a boost gauge. if all else fails u may have to go to a tuner
Mine doesn't idle funny at start up , when it warm up while parking I hit the gas padel up to 2500 rpm the meter drop lower than suppose to , it idles low.
It idles fine while parking , problem occur only when in rev and driving.

A friend said it may be a bad TPS, I remembered before the gauge was install,
the car showed the symptom once . after the gauge was install thats when
everything went to hell.

Any insights?
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 09:33 PM
  #23  
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it still sounds like a vacuum leak.

you mentioned that you didn't use the nylon tube but rather a rubber kind of tube. the fitting from that tube into the boost gauge, and to the t-part where you spliced in, need to have very good and firm fittings and the slightest leak can cause a problem. I dont think that rubber hose is fitting well in the boost gauge and you may have a leak. I personally would get rid of the rubber tube, install the proper nylon tube and see if the issue persists.
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 10:38 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Sharkbite2000
check for a vac leak, and where is the rpm idle at?

The TB has a screw you can up the rpm a tad see if it levels out.
This is not sound advice. That screw is there to keep the throttle plate from returning to far as the spring pressure would make it stick in the throttle body on initial engagement. The car has an idle air control valve and should be adjust from the ecu, messing with the screw only screws up the ecu calibrations
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 03:11 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by digdat
it still sounds like a vacuum leak.

you mentioned that you didn't use the nylon tube but rather a rubber kind of tube. the fitting from that tube into the boost gauge, and to the t-part where you spliced in, need to have very good and firm fittings and the slightest leak can cause a problem. I dont think that rubber hose is fitting well in the boost gauge and you may have a leak. I personally would get rid of the rubber tube, install the proper nylon tube and see if the issue persists.

Like i said , I put back the stock one back on but still not solve the problem.
fyi.
while parking the engine idles at 900-1'000 rpm. car starts without any hesitation.

Last edited by Charlie-Y; Feb 4, 2010 at 03:16 PM.
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 03:17 PM
  #26  
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As been said before, the symptoms point to a boost/vacuum leak. Get/make yourself a boost leak tester and let us know what the results are.
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 03:18 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Charlie-Y
Like i said , I put back the stock one back on but still not solve the problem.
fyi.
while parking the engine idles at 900-1'000 rpm. car starts without any hesitation.
Not for nothing man just pay someone to do it next time less headaches and for 70 bucks look at the paim your going threw that's why i pay pros..
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 03:53 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 1slowassevo
Not for nothing man just pay someone to do it next time less headaches and for 70 bucks look at the paim your going threw that's why i pay pros..
Agreed!
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