I have a question about the 2 piece drive shafts offered by various vendors for the Evo 8/9. I see that the DevoTuning one replaces the 2nd and 3rd section of driveshaft with a 1 piece steel/chromoly design as seen here http://devotuning.com/store/index.ph...products_id=77
and the one offered by the driveshaft shop replaces the front 2 sections with a 1 piece aluminum shaft as seen here http://www.driveshaftshop.com/pdetail.php?pid=634
Each has there own way of doing this and completely different way and totally different price as well. What are the pro's and con's to each design (ie:which way is more desireable,replacing the front 2 sections with 1 piece or replacing the rear 2 sections with 1 piece). Just want hard facts from people who have purchased either one and their experience,not a bunch of opinions,thanks.
Also noted is that Mike@AWDmotorsports carries an aluminum option as well https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...fts-stock.html but not sure which 2 sections it replaces. Thanks for the info from current owners of either design.

 

devo tuning is no longer in business fyi

 

You want the design that will produce the shortest sections so that the resonant frequency is the highest.

The 3" aluminum tube or 2.75" or smaller steel tube can reach a length that is long enough to resonate pretty easily. Because of this, you have to go up in wall thickness, above what is really needed for torsion strength when using steel.

I had a locally company build mine. All the parts are readily available to a driveline shop and it's really just a matter of changing 2 shafts into 1. The CV joint is the heavy part and is what I eliminated along with the rear carrier bearing. Doing it with this method leaves a short shaft and a long shaft that is less desirable but easy to pull off and inexpensive. I think I paid under $300 for mine and it dropped 12 pounds off the driveline. No vibration to 135-140mph, haven't gone over that.

If I did it again, I'd probably figure out a way to make the shaft lengths more even though and I'd look more into aluminum. Even then, many driveline shops build aluminum driveshafts and can get a hold of the parts to make it happen. Going local can save a ton on shipping your core to them and the new driveline back.

 

the one from AMS keeps the stock front shaft (they balance it) and you get an entirely new rear shaft. h

Devo (who may or may not be in business?) = $595.00 + shipped (no mention of core)
the driveshaft shop = $1,199.99 (no mention of core fee)
AMS = $749.00 shipped + your core (or $395.00 core fee)

ive read very very similar results between the devo one and the ams one .. never actually seen anyone get one from the drive shaft shop. all things ive read said nothing but amazing things about the updated systems. because AMS is quite well known and a good price, id be inclined to go with them.

 

how hard is it to install the driveshaft, can one person do it with jacks?

i want to buy the ams one!

 

what advantages does changing ur stock 3 peice driveshaft into a 2 peice?

 

Less rotating parts, weight reduction, better driveability and also better for getting the power to the ground.

I removed my drive shaft myself, helps if you're don't have girly arms. It's very easy with a lift or a friend. Multiple jack stands are a must for ease of install

Go with AWD, great weight savings. Tried and proven...main thing, it works!

 

Adam is no longer in business but does do work out o his house now. The driveshaft he sold is the QuarterMaster driveshaft (same one APM sells). It requires your core. I have yet to see the AWD one up close but for the price it is a good deal and if Mike puts his name on it I am sure it will take some abuse.

 

Any links to the APM unit? I didn't see it on their site.

 

03whitegsr,
Would you propose making two equal length aluminum driveshafts opposed to one long and one short one?

Without doing much research I was leaning towards the AWD Motorsports driveshaft due to it being ran so hard in Mike's car without issue.

 

Can't find any info on the AMS offered one other than the C/F driveshaft and the driveshaft shops offered one. Do you have a link to it from their web site?
http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/M...riveshaft.html

Yet my original question was/is does the one that AWD offers replace the first 2 pieces and if so then what would support the driveshaft seeing that the second piece is the one with the supports? Does anyone have pic's of the AWD one installed on their car?
Thanks for the replys and keep them coming as this looks to be a very good mod/investment.

 

It says in the link that it replaces the two rear sections.

 

I guess I should have read the 1st sentence Thanks,me no talkie no more.

 

I don't think it's possible to make two equal length aluminum shafts.

I haven't looked very hard, but I don't think there is any kind of carrier bearing setup that works with an aluminum driveshaft. They are all setup around using a steel shaft.

The way I did mine, I turned the rear two shafts into 1 shaft. In stock form, the middle shaft has both carrier bearings. I incorporated the front carrier bearing into the rear shaft and then used the stock front shaft.

I don't remember who did it which way, but one of the companies lengthens the front shaft so it has the carrier bearing on it instead of the rear shaft. This makes the two shafts more even in length. If you go this way, then it's pretty easy to make the rear shaft aluminum.

 

Yes,whats to say that a company doesn't cut the front section/flange off the 2nd section that has the carrier bearing on it and weld it to the back side of a front 1 piece section that replaces the 2 pieces and then make a rear section that appears like the one that AWD sells and you would have 2 almost equall length sections and still retain the factory carrier bearing?