Question for the "experts" about the 2 piece drive shafts offered by various Vendors
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Evolved Member
You'd need to flip the carrier bearing to make it work, but it can be (has been) done.
The one issue I came across though was the tubing size. I don't recall exact sizes, but the stock tube is metric and fairly thin wall. Most shops don't have the tube adapters for the thin wall metric stuff. Because of this, I had to go up in wall thickness and to a standard size. It made it heavier than I wanted and probably stronger than needed, considering the stock thin wall stuff has been proven to run well into the 9s, if not 8s. The actual savings in inertial weight was less than hoped for, but it still knocked off a fair bit of weight.
The one issue I came across though was the tubing size. I don't recall exact sizes, but the stock tube is metric and fairly thin wall. Most shops don't have the tube adapters for the thin wall metric stuff. Because of this, I had to go up in wall thickness and to a standard size. It made it heavier than I wanted and probably stronger than needed, considering the stock thin wall stuff has been proven to run well into the 9s, if not 8s. The actual savings in inertial weight was less than hoped for, but it still knocked off a fair bit of weight.
Evolved Member
I found the spread sheet I used when figuring this stuff out.
Here are the results:
The weight saving includes the removal of the CV joint, the moment of interia is only the tube though.
Here are the results:
The weight saving includes the removal of the CV joint, the moment of interia is only the tube though.
Evolved Member
Do you have an .xls for this? If so mind sharing it? It would be nice to play around with different ID/OD aluminum tubing.
I think the aluminum has some great properties!
Not as stiff.... reduces driveline shock on rear diff! Best weight savings, best MOI, highest torque capacity, and highest critical speed
What Alloy of aluminum did you use for your calcs? 7075?
I think the aluminum has some great properties!
Not as stiff.... reduces driveline shock on rear diff! Best weight savings, best MOI, highest torque capacity, and highest critical speed
What Alloy of aluminum did you use for your calcs? 7075?
Evolved Member
Nope, 6061 seems to be the standard that you can get from a driveline shop.
Also, you are welding on forged aluminum universal joint ends so the material has to be compatible.
My spread sheets aren't too user friendly I usually build them around what I know about the system and don't care too much about making them easy to use. PM me an email address.
Also, you are welding on forged aluminum universal joint ends so the material has to be compatible.
My spread sheets aren't too user friendly I usually build them around what I know about the system and don't care too much about making them easy to use. PM me an email address.
Evolved Member
Quote:
The one issue I came across though was the tubing size. I don't recall exact sizes, but the stock tube is metric and fairly thin wall. Most shops don't have the tube adapters for the thin wall metric stuff. Because of this, I had to go up in wall thickness and to a standard size. It made it heavier than I wanted and probably stronger than needed, considering the stock thin wall stuff has been proven to run well into the 9s, if not 8s. The actual savings in inertial weight was less than hoped for, but it still knocked off a fair bit of weight.
So looking at your steel version on your chart do you know off hand how much weight you would save compared to the stock shaft?Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
You'd need to flip the carrier bearing to make it work, but it can be (has been) done.The one issue I came across though was the tubing size. I don't recall exact sizes, but the stock tube is metric and fairly thin wall. Most shops don't have the tube adapters for the thin wall metric stuff. Because of this, I had to go up in wall thickness and to a standard size. It made it heavier than I wanted and probably stronger than needed, considering the stock thin wall stuff has been proven to run well into the 9s, if not 8s. The actual savings in inertial weight was less than hoped for, but it still knocked off a fair bit of weight.
Evolved Member
I believe it was 11 pounds. The CV joint and the second carrier bearing are where the weight comes from.
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anyone have any info or feedback on this driveshaft ?
weight ?
DriveShaft Shop Aluminum Rear Shaft : Mitsubishi EVO
weight ?
DriveShaft Shop Aluminum Rear Shaft : Mitsubishi EVO