What was the condition of the filter replaced by the K&N unit? New? Dirty?

 

Almost new

 

pics

http://www.wtfbracing.com/forum/album_cat.php?cat_id=14

 

Great work on the EVO's. I'm so happy to be part of the mitsu family.

Anyway, I had a question about the drop in filter. Are you referring to the 33-2105Kn filter. I had heard the same thing about the MAF being "confused" by intakes and I just want confirmation that this is what you are referring to. If this is true would you throw a cel? Just trying to find out how the problem manifests itself since I just got rid of my KN filter.

WADAD

 

It manifests itself with a wildly flucuating a/f ratio curve that takes a lot of work to straighten out

 

hey anyone know if Pruven has a website??? That's basicazlly right next to mt hometown in Ct, and it wouldn't be that far for me to tyake my car there.

 

if your looking for a reflash appointment - we are there several times a week - the price is lower at pruven - its $450.00 for the flash and dyno time on semi stock or stock evos

 

Al,

Any answer to that question?

 

NO way - you MUST stay with the air intake you got with the tune - - if you change it you MUST get reflashed - - the a/f ratio is vastly different on different intakes !

 

Gotcha..Great to know!!! Since I was flashed with the cone intake I will definitely leave it installed. Another question...If I were to purchase and new BOV and MBC would I need another reflash?

 

BOV - get a recirculating one and you'll be fine

MBC - start with stock level of boost - then go up 1 psi and see how it feels - we write all our reflash maps so they get richer and richer when you add a load - however - it may be possible that when you raise up the boost higher you may get it so rich and reduce the ign timing so much you may acutally not make any more power

The best path of course is to get a reflash to tune for the higher boost

We offer discounts on re-tunes

 

Al, so what you're saying is if I put a K& N drop in, without tune, I will have erratic A/F readings? I thought the Ralliart drop in had those problems. I just wanted to buy the filter and put it in. I thought you can just reset the ECU and that's it.

I want a dynoflash so bad, but i am located in Vegas. Any chance you will be in the southwest region for tuning?

 

What I said applies to the cone style air intakes which remove the factory air box.

We have sent several of out $225 through the mail mild reflash tunes to Nevada which all have been very well recieved !! They make about 10 - 15 whp and raise your boost on the top end. Plus a rev limter increase and fuel cut removal.

 

I hoped for a more increase with my mods and flash since Al said about 20-25 whp more increase but it's still good gain and a lot smoother. Sat in Al's car. HIS CAR IS FREAKIN AMAZING! 3rd gear and I'm in 100mph! My car right now is a lot smoother. I dont have the shaking at 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th. Much much smoother during shifts and feel more power. My maximum hp was only a 13 whp increase from 260 tuned to 273. My redline hp was a 24 whp increase from 236 to 260...hehehe. I felt a lot more power in the high end now. All I need is a boost controller and it should bump to a good 290-300 whp. My boost bounces from 1.2-1.3 bar when I floor it. However, the boost spike seems to be a lot less now. And the spike is not going to 1.4 bar but at 1.35 bar or maybe my car just spools fast and tapers fast. Not sure. Hard to drive while looking at the boost meter.

MODS:
HKS Racing Suction, HKS Downpipe, UR 3" High Flow Cat, HKS Cat-Back Exhaust.

OTHER:
Custom Ground Kit, Cusco Oil Catch Can, some A/V Mods.

Pix and dynosheet upload later. Waiting to gather them.

 

Al,
At what level do you think it is necessary to put on a cone-type filter as far as HP?
Yes I am now thinking of going back to the stock box again.
Question is, when I do get the cams and injectors and all in there, will I really need to go back to the cone filter, because then there is no sense changing back.