I have a 2005 evo 8 mr and i just went up to al up at pruven to go get it tuned. While he was tuning it he was coming up with excessive knock so we thought it could be fuel so we drained the tank and i went to sunoco and got some fresh 93 octane fuel and that wasn't it so it has to be mechanical. We thought about it and i told him i had kelford 280's in with no valve springs . So i went out and i got supertech duel valve springs with titanium retainers. But now i was thinking about putting in some pistons and rods but im un sure of what ones i should buy. I was looking at a wiseco forged piston with manley H beam rods but i was also looking at the eagle H beam rods. Im undecided If anyone has info/ experience with these set ups or has another set they recommend their input would be greatly appreciated

Oh this is my parts list

Ams full turbo back
Ams front mount
Ams uicp & licp
Megan racing 02 houseing
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Hallman manual boost controller
Kelford 280 cams
Supertech duel valve springs
Stock turbo port and polished


Im looking to get the ams GT35r kit in the summer so ill need a motor to support that

 

What fuel are you planning on running? Wiseco forged pistons and Manley H-Beam are good for your set-up, dont get Eagles.

 

how many miles do you have??

go with manly turbo tuff i-beam

 

I have the Wiseco / Eagle combo in my 4g64. Good for 600+ all day!. If the stock handles 500whp anything forged (piston)or Steel (conrod) has to be much better . Just depends on your preference IMO

 

right now i think im going to run 93 octane with a aquamist meth kit but ultimately i want to have a map for c 16 and right now the car has 112,500 miles

 

Honestly, with an engine that has that many miles, it would be your best bet to completely build the engine. Not just do drop-ins.

 

you can not do "drop in's" with that many miles!!

you need to get a built motor

 

yes drop-ins are for low mileage EVO's
get a 2.3 it should help with the lag on the 35r
hey you only live once
gl

 

At that mileage a full rebuild would be best because crank seals would be at their end of life and probably start to leak, oil pump might have wear, and engine bearings etc. All of this stuff cant be changed while the motor is in the car but its just more convenient to do so while the motor is on a stand. Not the mention giving it a nice bath and flush

 

okay so if im better off to do a full rebuild what kits do you guys recommend? i know buscher makes a 2.1 and a 2.3 stroker kit and ams makes 2.3 stroker kit. are there anymore? im new to this i just picked up my evo in august and i never thought i would be doing a full motor build a little over a half year later but funds are coming threw so lets do it

 

oh yeah and this is a little video my friend put together from the day up at pruven he made it in a half hour take a look

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTnAmeSBMnU

 

if i were you i would take the guess work out of the engine building process and go with one of the many great vendor built shortblocks.

c

 

I posted something like this up asking the same question. I am in the same boat as you. Even well known shops along with other people told me the same thing and rebuild. I am at 99k almost at 100k on mine.

I was thinking of doing a 2.4 from SlowBoy Racing. They have some really good prices on this set up. They have like 4 different stages.

Here take a look: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...2-4-2-4-a.html

 

Well we are all in agreement that you have way too many mile for drop ins. I'm just wondering what do you plan to use the car for drag, road race, auto x? The reason why I ask is if you build the motor 2.3L your 6spd tranny is going to eventually take a poo on you.

Also I'm wondering why your getting knock? Why does every one blame the Kelfords? I know of a few people who run Kelfords on stock valvetrain with out issues.

 

im looking to do a quarter mile drag and eventually i want to take the 6 speed out and put in a shep 5 speed trans. I just dont want to put alot of money in the motor now then find out later on in my build that all of the money i just put in the motor was a waist. I want to do it the right way and i dk why everyone blames it on the cams but on kelford web site i do know they highly recommend doing valve springs and retainers with there 272 and 280 cams