I turned my AEM Tru Boost from 80-90 and my PSI did not change. Is that all this turbo has? I've put about 19,000 miles or so on it in the last ten months and it seems to pull as hard as the day I installed it, but only 28 Pounds... WTF!

Stock motor and head, Full-Race Header, EPM O2 dump, Buschur ported intake and 65mm T/B, E-85, 1350 FIC injectors, Forge RS BOV, HP 18 PSI FP Actuator, and Buschur TBE with race pipe; so everything should be flowing well.

 

Definitely something amiss here since you haven't listed a BOV or DV in your list of mods my suspicion lays there. At a mere 26psi my red overran my stock metal DV. Tial installed and 30psi later it is all done

 

checked for boost leaks??? i would be careful turning the boost up on the stock long block with monitoring knock, BUT the red should be pushing more than 28psi, also what BOV are you using??

 

Forge RS and the HP 18 PSI FP Actuator. I have not check for boost leaks but that is on my lisy of things to do. Now that would be an easy fix... Sooooo, anything else I need to look into?

 

i had the same problem with my red only boosting 29psi got the synapse bov and it fixed my problem got retuned at 33psi damn what a diffrence. could be your bov or boost leak.....

 

What are you logging boost with? The true boost can only read 29 unless you upgrade the sensor.

You might need to get the bigger actuator as well, or will help at least.

 

It read with Tobz Mustang Dyno. He seems to think it is a boost leak because there was no change to boost when we turned the boost up.

 

Id guess boost leak also.

 

Try increasing WG spring pessure via the adjustable WG actuator rod. At least that is what I would try first before going out and spending money on expensive trick parts. If the metal IX DV is not holding then crush it a tad. If these two fixes don't work.....then go and throw money at it.

Edit: I am for you trying all of the possible fixes that don't cost anything first, such as the boost leak test as a couple of other guys suggested above.

 

Hello he has a forge RS bov. Obviously a boost leak test is the first thing to do.

 

Actually, you should try it the old fashioned way first. Start with a boost leak test. Even if you were to find no leaks, you would establish at what PSI your DV is lifting off of its seat.

Next, disconnect your boost controller and plug off the hose. Now, run a length of hose from the compressor housing discharge tube's nipple to the nipple on the WGA. Once that is done proceed to increase boost manually by rotating the turnbuckle on the end of the wastegate actuator rod inward(clockwise).

BLKCarbonEvo runs a Red with the same FP 18# at 32 PSI. So, given no boost leaks and a tight DV, you should be able to do the same.

 

So? I agree with you that a boost leak test might be a good place to start although I think that the problem in the OP's case may be too little WG spring pressure. But, as they say...everyone has got an opinion.

 

I never bought a Forge valve myself as it has gotten a lot of mixed reviews. Personally, I like a crushed MR DV. But, independently of whatever brand of valve the OP may be running, he could eliminate it as a possible cause of his problem by removing it strictly for test purposes and filling the two openings with film cans.

 

i thought the truboost only went to 28psi? u need the bigger solenoid thing. My good buddy has the truboost and is maxed at 28.3 psi

 

Hmmmm! Very interesting indeed.