4G64 with evo head timing belt
You said ADVANCE the cam gears but in the pic it looks like the exhaust is retarded 3.75 degrees? According to the gears A or advance would be to the left or am i reading it wrong???
So say on an evo 8 with BOTH adj cam gears you just advance BOTH gears 3.75 degrees?
So say on an evo 8 with BOTH adj cam gears you just advance BOTH gears 3.75 degrees?
I was thinkin the same thing. The exhaust is retarded because its lines up directly to the 0 on adjust table camgears
Both cam gears will be retarded approx 3.5 to 4 degrees. You really need to just remember where true "0" is and mark it. It can be a bit of PITA because if you try to line up the timing marks on the gear with the timing marks on the valve cover, tighten everything down and set the timing belt tension AND THEN retard the gears, it wont work. Reason being, if the gears are initially set to 0 on the gear, and you try to align the timing marks with the valve cover, the belt tooth spacing will be off, so no matter how you try, you wont be able to get adequate tension on all areas of the belt, typically it would be loose between the two gears or loose between the exhaust gear and the oil pump gear. When your actually trying to do it, you will understand it better, I have done the T-belts on 3 of these setup's and re-done my own personal motors timing belt about 4 times, the first time I spent hours trying to get it perfect, now it takes about 10 minutes.
So which is it, both gears retarded 3.75* or both gears advanced 3.75*? I'm getting ready to put the head on my 2.1l. The previous owner of my car had the cams degree'd already, should I leave those settings and add the needed adjustment to both gears? Or should I set them back to 0 and adjust them 3.75* in the correct direction and just degree them when the car is on the dyno?
If he has the cams degree'd already, thats where they are at TRUE ZERO on the 2.0 liter motor, so then retard each cam 3.75 degrees, that new mark, is your new TRUE ZERO for those cams on the 4G64 block.
You dont have to stretch it, from what i heard you just set the eccentric idler on the loose side and the hydraulic tensioner sits in a normal position. I know english racing and buschur both do this and i have a lot of confidence in both of them. Im going with a 4g63 belt for strength, the one im using is a lot more expensive than a 4g64 belt.
some people only keep the 4g63 belt to get the kevlar version etc. But i have the actual belt and its perfect no issues and fits perfect with out using small tricks etc. use whatever you feel like but i just wanted to make it as easy as possible with out making anything complex
some people only keep the 4g63 belt to get the kevlar version etc. But i have the actual belt and its perfect no issues and fits perfect with out using small tricks etc. use whatever you feel like but i just wanted to make it as easy as possible with out making anything complex
http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/pr...iming_belt.htm
Your cam gears will be one half tooth off with either the 4g63 or 4g64 timing belt. It's your choice if you want to set the gear up to be 1/2 tooth advanced or retarded, you just have to set your adjustable cam gear back/forward 3.75 degrees to compensate.
I would use the stock Evo IX timing belt. Its a high strength kevlar belt, just not a fancy color. It looks, feels, and even smells just like the "racing" belts that you pay hundreds of dollars for, just a lot cheaper. The part number is 1145A038 or the old number is MN187466, even if you order the new number, the belt still has MN187466 printed on it.
I would use the stock Evo IX timing belt. Its a high strength kevlar belt, just not a fancy color. It looks, feels, and even smells just like the "racing" belts that you pay hundreds of dollars for, just a lot cheaper. The part number is 1145A038 or the old number is MN187466, even if you order the new number, the belt still has MN187466 printed on it.
Any modified stock headgasket that cuts into the fire ring is not "perfect" and will fail. The PE has proven to be susceptible to failure by misfires and is alot more sensitive than the Cometic. Every PE equipped car we have done with the exception of one, has had an issue. We have gone to the normal base Cometic. It seals our drag car making over 1050whp, it seals my car at 794 and is now in Mikeys.
Remember the key to advice on the internet is take it from people that do it on the daily and have these motors running and going through abuse. If somehow all my data was incorrect when I tested my car on pumpgas and the car was knocking like a son of gun, the first thing that should have gone was the "cheap" headgasket. It was and is fine
aaron
Remember the key to advice on the internet is take it from people that do it on the daily and have these motors running and going through abuse. If somehow all my data was incorrect when I tested my car on pumpgas and the car was knocking like a son of gun, the first thing that should have gone was the "cheap" headgasket. It was and is fine
aaron