You'll want to upgrade with a turbo that size, especially in Texas with all the flat roads. 700 hp is a lot of fun.

 

Your rods and bearings should handle that power, it has been done over and over again in the past, but you leave very little margin for error.

If the motor is going to be apart, I'd upgrade to I-Beams or the such for peace of mind and ACL bearings. If not, I'd run it and not worry.

 

this is right one mess up and it could be all over coach. but again might want to run 500whp first for alittle bit make sure motor etc is happy while be aggressive and non. To be honest i dont see the point in buying a laggy turbo for what you MIGHT WANT LATER. you might not upgrade period or sell the car before then lol. I say get what is needed and enjoy that and when your ready to do it do it not buy some monster turbo and fuel system then have tons of lag etc and car will not be enjoyable hommie. you can get a smaller turbo and have fun with that and when your ready sell that for a decient price then upgrade.

 

Some engine builders prefer the OEM bearings as they come in different sizes.

 

yea i have heard and seen some builders do that as well as keeping stock main studs.

 

https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...oducts_id=1419

You need them.

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Are you going shortblock or are you boring it out and just rebuilding? I-beams are a great choice, send the stock crank out to get machined cleaned and balanced, same with all the components when they get in.

 

boring it out and rebuilding. the car will sit so I dont risk throwing a rod. plus its knocking really bad, so something got messed up with the tune again (just got that fixed yesterday afternoon lol)

a local evo shop is doing the work. they have a set of i-beams to sell me, but i need to pick up pistons since one of theirs are definitely not usable. the crank will be sent out, and the block will be bored .020 over.

im torn between those buschur pistons, regular je forged 8.5:1, or wiseco 1400hd 9.0:1 pistons. ive heard good things about the regular je pistons, but i might as well get the pistons that will handle anything i throw at it while im in there.

time to do this right, unlike the last shop...

 

What was the last shop? MDR doin the work this time?

 

wow should have just went to jms and got it done right the first time. your only like what 2 hours from them? if it does not go as planned again i would say give them a call

 

Continue to take this off topic and be prepared for an infraction. OP please PM me directly if this gets out of hand again.

 

I'm not going to say anything about who built it last (I have no beef with them personally and I didnt see the work they did first hand) but yes, MDR has and will handle my car while its under MY ownership. they are fixing what broke, and will handle my motor build and new turbo setup

RockmanX- I told you that I got the car as I've been driving it. Nothing against JMS, but Ive got a shop that I trust, and its less than 2 hours away

with that clarification, end of debate. mods, you can lock this thread. I've found my answer and the motor is being built anyway

 

good deal. long as its straight thats all you can ask for

 

Id still like to hear why the crank shouldn't be machined.

 

The line bore should be checked when installing main studs, I have not personally seen them effect the line bore but it potentially could and supposedly sometimes does.

ACL is a huge bearing manufacturer and they supply alot of automakers with bearings. I am not sure if our bearings are made by ACL but the point is a bearing is a bearing and theoretically only contacts the crankshaft on startup so one bearing should not be better than others, other than quality control.

I prefer OEM bearings because they are select fit so you can get bearings that will make all your clearances come out the same. ACL bearings are made in either standard, ten thousandths over, or 20 thousandths over, possibly more but you get the point. so your clearances can vary some, all still in spec and within and accepted range but more than likely not as even as it was with the OEM bearings.

hope this helps some ppl

 

Our cranks are nitrided which is a COATING and is ground off when the crank is cut, thus weakening it.