the upper middle exhaust manifold stud broke (check pic). i wonder what will cause that? and how can i fix it. my setup is 2.3 with pt6262 with hafe manifold.
i thought it might be engine roll so i just installed the blox engine roll stopper and waiting to see if it will break again.
any ideas will be apreciated. thanks

http://yfrog.com/5509052010306j

 

 

thanks for loading it!

 

all you need to have no worrys http://www.extremepsi.com/store/cust...at=1468&page=3

 

over torquing the hardware and failing to use proper anti seize is the only thing I can think of off the top of my head. I'm getting ready to replace my turbo kit so hopefully I'm not in the same boat. If so it's just an excuse to put the BR stage III head on!!! It's been in the closet patiently waiting to go on for over a year!!

Josh

 

I forgot to add if your manifold flange is not stright/flat it will break studs to.

 

Take off your manifold. Spray PB blaster on the nut and let it sit over night. Heat torch my come in handy to help break the factory seal.

If you got enough room put 2 thinner nuts on it and start ti turn the inner nut lose. It will lock on the first nut forcing the stud to turn.
If you can't do the above, try vice grips as well as the heat torch.

If life is still sucking then take it to shop and have them weld something to it for removal

The studs are sold individually at mitsu dealerships vs buying a entire kit.

 

i will buying those today.
but i dont know if anything else i should buy to help also.

 

it is a brand new hafe. as i recal it is straight.

 

i am thinking if there is another mount than the blox or damper that can help prevent engine roll and vibration on engine.

 

This was a common problem with DSM's and isn't a big deal to fix when it breaks like that. The issue is usually from over torquing the nut on the stud, then the heat from running the car does the rest. Just folow Evoryder's instructions and you'll have it out. I would however replace the whole set. If you overtorqued one you probably did it to others and they are just waiting to fail now.

Oh, and go buy a torque wrench before you tighten any more bolts.

 

i just found those torque requirments.

Exhaust manifold nut M8 29 ± 3 (21 ± 2 ft-lb)
Exhaust manifold nut M10 49 ± 5 (36 ± 3 ft-lb)

is this torque required also for the arp ss studs?

 

Take off the manifold and use a vice grip.

 

I just replaced ALL of my studs and a simple stud remover from Harbor Freight and a breaker bar got them out super easy and fast. No worries.

 

do you use the same torque specs for the arp ss studs?