santa pod disaster please help
hello everyone my name is col and im currently working on my mates 1997 p reg evo 4 grs. 
previously i have fitted a new clutch into it thanks goes to the guys who wrote the right up helped me out alot, i have also swapped the dump valve from the plastic standard one to a bailey recirc valve.
and i have fitted a mines ecu to derestrict/delimit the car.
now for the dilemma on saturday it was taken to santa pods run what ya bring it did the 163 miles there without a problem but when it come to the first run down the track it decided to blow the dip stick out and throw its oil all over the engine bay through the dip stick tube
the engine was slightly over revved when this happened, the car cut out and didnt want to start again till it had cooled down.
but once it had started it wasnt happy was running rough and it taps at the top end my first thought was timing has slipped, i havent touched the timing belt so far,
i took the top timing belt cover off and the cams still line up. i have yet to get the car onto the ramp and remove the bottom timing belt cover to check the cranks position while the cams are at the tdc marks.
the car did its first run in 13 seconds but it wasnt able to do another run as i was worried about the engine so trailored it home.
if i can im going to upload a video of the evo running and tapping to see if any of you have heard anything similair.
if the timing marks all line up im not quite sure how i am going to go about finding the problem as it just sounds like a tappet but on removing the rocker cover i found swinging rollers instead of tappets and everything spins as it should under there.
thanks in advance for any ideas, hints or paths to go down to try and find the source of the tapping.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irnTFhBudfQ

previously i have fitted a new clutch into it thanks goes to the guys who wrote the right up helped me out alot, i have also swapped the dump valve from the plastic standard one to a bailey recirc valve.
and i have fitted a mines ecu to derestrict/delimit the car.
now for the dilemma on saturday it was taken to santa pods run what ya bring it did the 163 miles there without a problem but when it come to the first run down the track it decided to blow the dip stick out and throw its oil all over the engine bay through the dip stick tube

the engine was slightly over revved when this happened, the car cut out and didnt want to start again till it had cooled down.
but once it had started it wasnt happy was running rough and it taps at the top end my first thought was timing has slipped, i havent touched the timing belt so far,
i took the top timing belt cover off and the cams still line up. i have yet to get the car onto the ramp and remove the bottom timing belt cover to check the cranks position while the cams are at the tdc marks.
the car did its first run in 13 seconds but it wasnt able to do another run as i was worried about the engine so trailored it home.

if i can im going to upload a video of the evo running and tapping to see if any of you have heard anything similair.
if the timing marks all line up im not quite sure how i am going to go about finding the problem as it just sounds like a tappet but on removing the rocker cover i found swinging rollers instead of tappets and everything spins as it should under there.
thanks in advance for any ideas, hints or paths to go down to try and find the source of the tapping.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irnTFhBudfQ
update on progress
bit of an update had it on the ramp today and stripped the timing case off, there is a little bit of slack in the timing belt not much but its definatly there, also there is a lot of slack in the balancing rod timing belt which iv read should be tight over the top i can twist both the top and bottom, i can spin the tentioner freely and grab the belt n move it about but it hasnt snapped it still rotates and the marks line up each tdc.
but most worrying to me is that everything still lines up except for the oil pump gear, this is a good 40-50 degrees clockwise past the timing marks, could this cause the tapping? i have read somewhere that something else drives off the oil pump but can not remember what i will try and find the post i read about it.
but other than that the pistons and cams all still line up(so hopefully no valve/piston contact) as does the balancing rod, but i can not visualize how the balancing rod belt being overly loose could cause the oil pump gear to be out so much without the pistons or cams being out at all as they are all driven by the main timing belt,
thanks for your input, any more advice would be greatly apreashiated,
im not sure wether to get him to get new belts or take these off and inspect them for damage, they look in good condition considering they have not been changed in this country as i know the full history of work in the uk, just no japanese history.
then retime the oil pump gear and tighten the BR timing belt then start it and see if that cures it, if it does not he doesnt need to buy new belts he needs a new engine
lol
but most worrying to me is that everything still lines up except for the oil pump gear, this is a good 40-50 degrees clockwise past the timing marks, could this cause the tapping? i have read somewhere that something else drives off the oil pump but can not remember what i will try and find the post i read about it.
but other than that the pistons and cams all still line up(so hopefully no valve/piston contact) as does the balancing rod, but i can not visualize how the balancing rod belt being overly loose could cause the oil pump gear to be out so much without the pistons or cams being out at all as they are all driven by the main timing belt,
thanks for your input, any more advice would be greatly apreashiated,
im not sure wether to get him to get new belts or take these off and inspect them for damage, they look in good condition considering they have not been changed in this country as i know the full history of work in the uk, just no japanese history.
then retime the oil pump gear and tighten the BR timing belt then start it and see if that cures it, if it does not he doesnt need to buy new belts he needs a new engine
lol
hey
thanks everyone for your input after reading the pdf's last night i figured out that the oil pump gear only lines up on every 5th rotation, i turned the engine over 2 times and it all lined up perfectly.
bad news for my friend, i am going to drop the sump shortly and see if i can spot which bearing has gone, im hoping the damage isnt terminal, as this all happened in a matter of a 13 second run then it cut out n got trailored home.
im hoping the shell bearing has taken the most of the damage, have i got more chance of winning the lottery? is there much chance it can be fixed without removing the crank, i dont want to take the gearbox out again if i can avoid it.
bad news for my friend, i am going to drop the sump shortly and see if i can spot which bearing has gone, im hoping the damage isnt terminal, as this all happened in a matter of a 13 second run then it cut out n got trailored home.
im hoping the shell bearing has taken the most of the damage, have i got more chance of winning the lottery? is there much chance it can be fixed without removing the crank, i dont want to take the gearbox out again if i can avoid it.
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update
as are the main bearings i dropped the oil pick up pipe and the bottom cradle all of the bearings on the bottom end are in thier correct position.
the only thing i can think of now is piston ring has broken up but still running on 4 to some extent.
the only thing i can think of now is piston ring has broken up but still running on 4 to some extent.
pistons
basically its melted pistons 3 and 4 and the electrodes of the spark plugs, sorry i havent managed to get the pictures up ill try n post them tomorrow, the rings are welded together in the shut position it must of been down on compression,
there are big chunks of metal missing from where the rings would sit,
the debris has welded itself everywhere im gonna clean it up then get the valves recut as i can see debris sat in the valve seats.
if anyone is or knows anyone breaking an engine, or if anyone has a dead engine they would consider selling 2 pistons out of or the whole engine please let me know thanks.
there are big chunks of metal missing from where the rings would sit,
the debris has welded itself everywhere im gonna clean it up then get the valves recut as i can see debris sat in the valve seats.
if anyone is or knows anyone breaking an engine, or if anyone has a dead engine they would consider selling 2 pistons out of or the whole engine please let me know thanks.
she is fixed finally
after much waiting she is finally fixed. pistons 3 and 4 were melted 1 and 2 were cracked.
had to wait a week because they sent the wrong head gasket first time.
first start havent fitted aux belt yet
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_jMhtrJwyg
had to wait a week because they sent the wrong head gasket first time.
first start havent fitted aux belt yet
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_jMhtrJwyg
your problems are not over.
you cant just install new pistons when they get damaged. the bores always get damaged when pistons melt. this is very common error to make. you hone the block and it looks good but in reality it is not. the bores are no longer round. it will run for a short time before major blow by problems return.
you cant just install new pistons when they get damaged. the bores always get damaged when pistons melt. this is very common error to make. you hone the block and it looks good but in reality it is not. the bores are no longer round. it will run for a short time before major blow by problems return.


