I'm having trouble deciding whether or not to keep my tru boost or go back to a hallman mbc. ECU controlled boost isnt an option at this moment...

Everyone knows that tuning the tru boost is nearly impossible as load will always give different boost levels based on how this controller works. I really hate having to change my settings based on whether or not I run from a stop, 1st gear, or 3rd gear, but I have been living with it.

However, the other day, for the first time since ive had the truboost,I decided to launch with 2 step (which is set at 6000- 6200 cant remember the exact) , then pulled all the way to 3rd gear. After the run, I checked my peak boost and it said 29.5 psi! WTF. i cant see it possible to tune this tru boost by having to do multiple launches and do pulls all the way to 3rd-4th gear, in attempt to get my desired 24 psi throughout the gears. I'm sure my car would break.

So the question is, how much boost will I lose in lower gears if i switch to an MBC and set it at 24psi in 3rd-4th gear? Is it better to keep 24 psi in 1st and 2nd gear then drop (tru boost), or is it better not reach set boost in lower gears, then boost my desired level in higher gears (MBC)? What will be more powerful but safe? If i keep the tru boost, how can i possibly set it up to give desired boost consistently, from launch to 4th gear (say for drag)? If i decide to go back to the hallman, Ill keep the gauge and sell my solenoid... Thanks for all input

 

It's all set up, an MBC will load the car and cause higher spikes in higher gears. I like my AEM and I liked my Hallman. I am too lazy to go to Hallman now because I'd have to get out of the car to adjust it where I can make changes in car instantly and have a very good feel for how much its going to go up in duty cycle/boost.

aaron

 

i have aem truboost and forge MBC i really just got the aem because it can read my 50psi if needed never planned on using the mbc function of it but ill let jms decide

 

how do you set it up while taking launch in consideration? or do you just accept that you will not reach full boost in 1st gear after a launch and second gear to achieve desired boost on in higher gears? do customers ever ask you guys to set up their tru boost after giving them a tune?

 

no point in getting rid of something thats already proven.. i have hallman myself but i have in car so i can adjust it, but id keep what you got, its a good boost controller.

 

eventually you need to go with the ECU controlled boost. I don't know why it is not an option for you but there are really cost effective ways to do it and all you need is an amazing tuner to dial it all in. other then that it is amazing especially with multiple maps like pump - e85

 

I have had both the AEM Tru-boost and a Hallman RX Pro manual boost controller. The functionality of the AEM was the better of the two setups IMO. However, there is one more option you should consider. Why not go with a GM or other boost solenoid (less the $50) and ECU-based boost control? With the right tuner you'd avoid the "spike" issue. You also would have the flexibly to go with gear dependent boost settings as well. You can even use the AEM boost solenoid that came with the Tru-boost to run ECU boost control.

Camboozy brings up another advantage of going with ECU controlled boost... Where in at in Cali? SD, LA, and SF all have some availability to E85 and with map switching easy to switch back and forth when necessary.

You'll also need an JDM, Omni 4-bar, or other MAP bar sensor to run ECU-based boost control.

 

this is probably the best route for ecu controlled boost = http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/pr...qe3rrsmnqsjn23

 

Well i just wanna make the mos out of my tru boost since there are people that are using them and are happy with it

 

i dont know who you're saying this to, but i agree with this.. right now with my mbc i have to spike to like 35psi just to hold 30 uptop.. which is bs. im about to pull the trigger on a grimspeed. seems retarded to be spiking boost just to hold when there are other options out there that will allow FULL control over boost with more safety features.

 

You don't NEED a new map sensor to run ECU controlled boost, as you can still run load based boost, but running PSI based boost is much much easier to deal with. As for cost, I bought a GM 3 port and pigtail for 65 bucks, a used OP 1.3 cable for 60 bucks, and evoscan for 25 bucks, and self tuned using ecuflash. All in all, only about twice what a high quality MBC would cost with so many more options.

 

I would say it would be a smart move to buy a higher reading map sensor so you can assure you're getting the boost you want by analyzing the logs if you're outflowing the stock one. im switching to grimpspeed now and have omni 4bar..... im sick of seeing a spike and watchin the boost drop off when there are other options out there that will let you ***** slap the boost and move it where you want it.

 

I installed a Greddy ptofec b a couple days ago...and now I will never use anything else again.

 

Really? After reading this I want to sell off my Profec B and setup via ECU control. I have the same exact issues as the OP as I never reach anything above 16psi in first gear and if I try to go higher, I spike bad in other gears, especially 3-5

 

I have been playing with apexi-r for a couple weeks now on my evo1. Its a wonderful tool to control boost. I bought it because i wanted to make my 2.3 feel like a 2.0. By adding controlled boost creep. I absolutely love this thing. Bought a second for the evo 4 project as well. you can get more boost from first without affecting other gears.

ECU based control is the way to go for many. But if you like to change boost levels its much easier with a separate controller. kinda a pain to open laptop to make changes.