With the cold weather here I was wanting some options to eliminate or raise the fuel cut. Currently with temps in the 40s I hit the fuel cut if I hold 20psi in 5th gear. I didn't happen in the other gears but I was also on and off the pedal letting my EBC learn. I didn't want to experience it again so I turned my EBC down to 19psi meanwhile and everything is fine but I want to be able to run 20 now and 22 after I install APR headbolts. What is the best way to raise the fuel cut limit? Using the HKS Fuel cut defender or Flashing the ECU is the only options I know of but I live in Missouri so there is no way to get the ECU updated within the state so I wanted to stay away from it becuase if I have problems It could get to be a pain. Is the HKS-FCD safe? Are there other brands of FCD's? What are your sugestions? My mod list is below and I only run 93 oct fuel:


3” Turbo back Buschur Exhaust no Cat
SAFC II Tuned to 10.5 – 11.0 AFR at WOT (10% pull max)
Skunk2 ECU Test Harness
Ground Wire Kit
AEM Intake with open filter and heat shield
Turbo-XS H34 BOV
Blitz ID EBC
Apexi TT with AFR Gauge
3 Gauge factory Cluster (Volt,Oil temp, Boost)


Thanks for your help!

 

The best way and cheapest and safest is just send in your ECU
to WORKS or Dynoflash to raise your fuel cut. I beleive its less than 100 bux doing this way.

 

Its $49.99 for JUST the fuel cut - plus shipping

$79.99 for the rev limit, feul cut and boost remap

$225.00 for a through the mail flash good for 15 - 20 whp

 

Along with this do you have a fix to exliminate the Cell from the rear O2 due to running a test pipe?

 

the best way is to get bigger injectors and fuel control, IMHO...

 

take your maf down more to -13 or 15%

 

I agree, best way (and a good setup for mods to come) is larger injectors and using the SAFC II that you already have. The CHEAPEST way would be sending it to Al, but you may as well do at least the $79 option if you do that. If I was already getting Al to do my ECU I would go whole hog myself

Keith

 

As you must know then - that method gives you overly advanced ign timing on full boost as the ecu thinks you have only partial boost

As a result - you wind up with detonation in some spots with the stock ecu pulling timing and the end result is a choppy rough poer band with not much low end trq

the "BEST" way to fix a fuel cut problem is to just eliminate it by taking out the fuel cut - using your method is a crude method which gets the same result but which causes a lof ot unintended effects which are not desired

 

The best way to eliminate fuel cut is to do it inside the ECU itself.

Other methods work, but they are all flawed in one way or another. The HKS FCD is one of the worst.

 

DynoFlash, Do you have an answer for my question above about the Cell fix for the exhaust? Also how high do you raise the RPM on your flash and how much more stress does this put on the bottom end of the motor? There are so many discussions some saying everything is strong as long as you don't have detonation and some say otherwise? Since you have from what I can tell is probably the fastest recorded EVO I am guessing this is as safe as you could get as long as you keep your tuning numbers safe, right?

Looks like I might have to go with the DynoFlash but now which one I don't know. I already have an AFC so I don't know if the tuned flash would help me that much.

What AFR do you shoot for on the mail order Flash? Do you have a dyno chart to show? I am guessing I would take advantage of the timing changes how much of a difference would this make?

Sorry to have so many questions I just like to have every detail so I know that I am making the right choice.

 

The best alternative is to get the Mail in dynoflash, especially if you have an AFC already.. You are pulling out 12 to 15% fuel up top. This does change the load map that you are on and the timing is to advanced for the actual load that you are seeing. When you go with the dynoflash, he changes the fuel enrichment maps instead of fouling the ECU. This gives you the correct timing for the actual load that you are running. With the Mail in ECU there is still some room for leaning out the mixture to fine tune to your car. This is where the SAFC comes in handy if you have a means off tuning it, wideband or at minimum a reading of O2 voltage. Instead of leaning out 12 to 15% you will probably only be leaning out 2% to 5%. This doesn't cause as drastic affect on timing as the 10% to 15% that you were running with the SAFC alone.

The main in dynoflash is the best way to go all the way around.

Brian

 

We do not address the CEL issue at all as that is emissions related we can not touch that by law

The revs are fine at 7800 where we set the rev limit - we know of no one having any issues with that as long as they have oil in the car!

Our tuned reflash is superior to a safc tune - set your safc to zero and just try oyur flash - if your not happy we will give you back your $$ and flash you back to stock

 

How is the FCD the worst? It does it like everyother system does in one way or another - by clamping voltage. Al's setup takes this one step further - it eliminates the signal altogether - can be a blessing in the right hands, or a curse for the inexperienced.

the best method, honestly, is turn your boost down.

 

Couldn;t have said it better myself - thanks

For $225 you can't beat my mail in reflash

 

The AFC will eliminate most of the fuel cut problems. Who tuned the AFC and where did you get it? The car is still rich the way you have it tuned.

The other option is Al's reflash. It will work great for you too.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com