How true you are !

We offer three stages of fuel cut removal

Level one - mild increase good for about 320 whp

Level two - good up to 380 - 420 whp

Level three - total removal

I agree that having some fuel cut is a good idea but the stock one is just way too low !!!!!!!!

When we flash the stock cars we go with level one -

when we do cars with cams we do level two

When we go with nuts like myself we do level three

So far no one has hit the fuel cut on our flashes execept one guy with cams and we promptly moved him up to level three !

 

I purchased the AFCII my self and the tuning was done by myself and Axis Tuning on their dynodynamics AWD Dyno with AFR at 10.6 at redline on every pull that we did. We also added fuel on the high torque range becuase it was showing a small up spike at about 4200 with everything set to zero. The issue started the last time I went to get tuned I had a TurboXs MBC that just wasn't working right because the factory sylinoid was still cutting boost up and down and never going above 17.5 to 18 psi at readline on the best run from about 16.5 when it would get cut. Due to this I ditched the factory syliniod (Capped it off) and installed a BlitzID which holds boost very well and steady but I hit fuel cut once in 5th at about 20 psi and I don't want to spend money on more dyno tuning until I get all the small problems out of the way. Normally I don't run 20 I only run 18 or less for everyday driving but I want to be able to run that with no issues due to several other doing this and creating alittle more power and not seeing issues. For example the Exede does this very well with shiv's tuning but I don't want to buy one right now if I don't have to mainly becuase. I want my tuning on the fly which I was using the different datamodes on the SAFC and a different channel on the EBC so Air Fuel and Boost are all synced together for a clean run high or low. I think that I can still do this if I use Dynoflashes recomendations and another tune on a dyno to set up my levels.

 

Are you hp numbers on a dynojet or a awd dynodynamics dyno. I know that all dynos are different and are mainly there for tuning so you can see gains but I was just wondering.

 

You can either just get a fuel cut removal for $49.99 and keep your SAFC settings - OR - get the trough the mail flash for $225 and then use the SAFC to fine tune the fuel curve - either way you won;t have the fuel cut problem anymore !

 

your AFR is the problem from what I can see - 10.6 is jsut way too overly fat (aka unnecessarily safe)

 

You could do what I did and buy an PMS system from someone. Then you can just set Fuel cut at whatever you'd like! Has anyone else put a PMS on their car yet? It was made by EFI systems, but they don't make them for Mitsu any more, I picked it up from one of my friends who was parting their car out. It's pretty nifty because it gives you boost dependant menus, along with part throttle and WOT fuel and timing adjustments. Not as good as a stand alone, but better than an afc.

 

What is everyone recomendation for a safe AFR daily driving and a safe AFR for agressive runs? I have heard that 12.5 is the sweet spot but on the other hand I have heard it was to lean. What should I tune too?

 

Most people feel that an 11.5 tune is just fine for pump gas, and 12.5 is a good tune on race fuel.

Keith

 

There is a big difference between clamping a signal and adjustaing a signal. Clamping a signal that comes from the MAF means that above that value, you are no longer sending correct airflow to the ECU. That is bad. As airflow increases, the air to fuel ratio will just get leaner and leaner. As well, your timing advance will increase. It is a very dangerous situation for your engine.

If you add bigger injectors and use an AFC to adjust the air to fuel ratio back to stock (or whatever you want) levels, you will get the correct air to fuel ratio, and the ECU will see all the metered air it needs to, but your timing advance will increase a little due to the ECU seeing less airflow.

If you get rid of fuel cut inside the ECU, it is gone, and there are no side-affects. I'm not sure what you mean by Al's method "eliminating the signal."

Like I said, the HKS FCD is one of the worst ways to get rid of fuel cut in a Mitsubishi.

And yeah, fuel cut is a big hammer used to prevent the engine from blowing up in the case of an overboost. But with enough mods to increase the efficiency of the intake and exhaust tracts, you can end up hitting fuel cut at near-stock boost levels. If you eliminate it, it is assumed you know what you are doing. This thread obviously shows otherwise. So I suggest that people read up on this before they do anything to get rid of fuel cut. The Club DSM Digest archives are a great place to start.

 

Thanks ShapeGSX, I think that my safest and smartest position here would be to go with the mail flash from DynoFlash then use the AFC for fine tuning and knock monitoring. Hopefully I can find a dyno chart on the hp/tq/afr values for the mail in flash just to put my mind at rest. Also to find out and see if it is setup for 93 oct.

 

There is not one single through the mail reflash - there are several - dozens - we match the flash to your mods - tell me the mods you have and i will try and get a dyno sheet of our mail flah you would get - agsin the results on your individual car many vary - thats why we back it with a money back guarantee if your not 100% happy

 

Hi all,

I've hit fuel cut a few times with the colder weather. Just to spell it out for me, I can either lower boost, or LEAN out my SAFCII at the points where I hit fuel cut, correct?

Currently I'm richening it up from 2800-4000, then I lean it out upto ~7-8% between 5-6000 rpm and ~10% between 6000 and 7000. I seem to hit fuel cut around ~4500 rpm and in the ~5500 rpm range. So, leaning it out a little more at those points may help? I don't have extensive breathing mods (K&N and Bushur axle-back), so I shouldn't be flowing too much air.

I realize the other options of FCD and dynoflash, but I wanted to confirm the technique with my existing setup. Also, it would obviously safer to turn down boost rather then lean out more unless I can tune on a dyno to make sure it's not too lean and that I don't get too much ign advance and knocking.

Do I have it right?

TIA,

FB

 

From what I have gathered you are dead on. My self I will be shipping my ECU off the DynoFlash after xmas to get the fuel cut raised because it just feels wrong when hitting it.

 

I woudl agree with Josh..maybe I assumed too much about the knowledge base here.

Read up on it guys..fuel cut is not always a bad thing...but tfor those of us that want to push the envelope, its just something in the way