new built motor high oil pressure
Jun 28, 2010, 05:38 PM
#18
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What kind of oil pressure did you see when this happened? Also what kinda cams were in there? Strange the rocker would break before the valve smashes into the piston...
Jun 28, 2010, 10:01 PM
#19
I'm still calling bs. For someone who is known for long drawn out posts doesn't seam like
much explanation to me, just a bunch of claimed instences. I run a kiggly regulator now anyway so I should be good.
I'm not trying to come off as a jerk I guess just give more details as to what happened if your making these kinda claims.
much explanation to me, just a bunch of claimed instences. I run a kiggly regulator now anyway so I should be good.
I'm not trying to come off as a jerk I guess just give more details as to what happened if your making these kinda claims.
Jun 29, 2010, 08:04 AM
#20
I'm still calling bs. For someone who is known for long drawn out posts doesn't seam like
much explanation to me, just a bunch of claimed instences. I run a kiggly regulator now anyway so I should be good.
I'm not trying to come off as a jerk I guess just give more details as to what happened if your making these kinda claims.
much explanation to me, just a bunch of claimed instences. I run a kiggly regulator now anyway so I should be good.
I'm not trying to come off as a jerk I guess just give more details as to what happened if your making these kinda claims.
You either believe that what you bought and installed does what it is intended for or you don't.
If someone said their leg was blown off from an IED in Iraq while being pushed in a wheelchair by their spouse, I suppose you would call bs?
I have the broken lifters and snapped rockers here from one of my own engines. I am not sure what you are contesting.
Jun 29, 2010, 10:11 AM
#21
You state you don't believe it and then go on to state that you installed a Kiggly hydraulic lifter oil pressure regulator to lower the pressure to your lifters.
You either believe that what you bought and installed does what it is intended for or you don't.
If someone said their leg was blown off from an IED in Iraq while being pushed in a wheelchair by their spouse, I suppose you would call bs?
I have the broken lifters and snapped rockers here from one of my own engines. I am not sure what you are contesting.
You either believe that what you bought and installed does what it is intended for or you don't.
If someone said their leg was blown off from an IED in Iraq while being pushed in a wheelchair by their spouse, I suppose you would call bs?
I have the broken lifters and snapped rockers here from one of my own engines. I am not sure what you are contesting.
Jun 29, 2010, 02:23 PM
#23
You state you don't believe it and then go on to state that you installed a Kiggly hydraulic lifter oil pressure regulator to lower the pressure to your lifters.
You either believe that what you bought and installed does what it is intended for or you don't.
If someone said their leg was blown off from an IED in Iraq while being pushed in a wheelchair by their spouse, I suppose you would call bs?
I have the broken lifters and snapped rockers here from one of my own engines. I am not sure what you are contesting.
You either believe that what you bought and installed does what it is intended for or you don't.
If someone said their leg was blown off from an IED in Iraq while being pushed in a wheelchair by their spouse, I suppose you would call bs?
I have the broken lifters and snapped rockers here from one of my own engines. I am not sure what you are contesting.
I was under the impression the kiggly regualtes to the same pressure just in a different way. they explain it restricts to regulate instead of dumping to regulate. I didn't buy it to help the lifters I bought it to keep oil in oil pan.
I am sure you could have broken a rocker and lifter, i am saying it didn't happen because of of oil pressure.
Jun 29, 2010, 05:12 PM
#24
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thanks guys for all the info the balance shafts have been deleted in this new engine and the oil pressure in my can is very consistant it was higher then now since then i have changed to a 10w40 and the pressure has dropped and it is like 20 psi at idle and around 80-90 psi when traveling at around 70 mph. the car does not have a oil cooler now since i deleted it when i blew the motor from a spun bearing and also i did a compression test on the motor it has 205 miles on her and i got 145 psi on all cylinders. i am very pleased with my self so far i have a motor that is very smooth and very nice compression numbers.
Jul 13, 2010, 02:28 AM
#25
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Hooked up my gauges tonight..Motor is 2.3 and right off the bat the pressure shot up too 100psi also..After about 3 min or so it droped to almost 20..However, i am running Straight 30 SAE Non Detergent to break in the motor..Prob cuz of the thick oil.
Jul 13, 2010, 05:12 AM
#26
I'll just add some of my two cents and hopefully someone will find it useful. This thread kinda gets all over the place....
1) A built motor has tighter clearances and with balance shafts removed WILL produce higher oil pressure. You're pumping the same amount of oil through a smaller space = high oil pressure.
2) Porting the relief valve in the oil filter housing will help. Depending on how you port it, it will relieve MORE pressure once it opens up. So your idle/cruise pressure should remain somewhat consistent.
3) I would be careful of what Prosport gauges read. I won't say anything bad about the company or their products, but I have had at least one incident where my Prosport gauge was not reading accurate numbers.
Oh and lastly, I would be more worried about high oil pressure messing up your turbo before it messes up anything in your motor.
1) A built motor has tighter clearances and with balance shafts removed WILL produce higher oil pressure. You're pumping the same amount of oil through a smaller space = high oil pressure.
2) Porting the relief valve in the oil filter housing will help. Depending on how you port it, it will relieve MORE pressure once it opens up. So your idle/cruise pressure should remain somewhat consistent.
3) I would be careful of what Prosport gauges read. I won't say anything bad about the company or their products, but I have had at least one incident where my Prosport gauge was not reading accurate numbers.
Oh and lastly, I would be more worried about high oil pressure messing up your turbo before it messes up anything in your motor.
Jul 13, 2010, 08:28 AM
#29
Some example info below:
Originally Posted by Chevy HiPerformance.com
Setting Clearances:
"Going too tight on clearances such as piston-to-valve, piston-to-head, piston-to-wall, and main and rod bearings will kill you every time," says Darin. "On the other hand, there are no drawbacks to being too loose except for a little more oil up top as bearing and side clearances increase. That can be counteracted pretty easily so it's not a big issue." If the ring tension, package, or design or cylinder hone is inade-quate, looser clearances will exacerbate oil control problems; in that situation it's not the fault of the clearances. Reher-Morrison's mantra is that loose is good and looser is better. Factory engines have tight clearances because their operating temperature and rpm range are such that components aren't stressed as much, thermally or mechanically, to need extra clearance. Racing engines see much more stress since they start running hard at 6,500 rpm, where stock engines are already out of steam.
"Going too tight on clearances such as piston-to-valve, piston-to-head, piston-to-wall, and main and rod bearings will kill you every time," says Darin. "On the other hand, there are no drawbacks to being too loose except for a little more oil up top as bearing and side clearances increase. That can be counteracted pretty easily so it's not a big issue." If the ring tension, package, or design or cylinder hone is inade-quate, looser clearances will exacerbate oil control problems; in that situation it's not the fault of the clearances. Reher-Morrison's mantra is that loose is good and looser is better. Factory engines have tight clearances because their operating temperature and rpm range are such that components aren't stressed as much, thermally or mechanically, to need extra clearance. Racing engines see much more stress since they start running hard at 6,500 rpm, where stock engines are already out of steam.