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Summary: Car will only crank but not kick over. Codes thrown (not simultaneously) P2195, P0113, P0069

Platform: 2006 Evo GSR, 73,000 miles
Mods: Perrin foam intake, Perrin TBE w/ HFC, Hallman Pro MBC, professionally tuned on a dyno 1 year ago @21psig max

Car has been running amazing for about a year.

What happened:
Last week I was driving home from the commuter lot and my gas light came on. Within 2 minutes I got to a gas station and the car died pulling in. I thought I simply ran out of gas even though it seemed rather quick. Filled up, started up the car and drove home. Found it strange that the car only took 11.5 gallons so it must not have run out of gas...
Driving around with the AC on I notice the car almost wants to die at a light but then saves itself and idles fine.

Then 2 days later:
1. Went to start my car leaving my father's house, it revved up very high and then died.
2. Car would crank but not kick over.
3. After letting the car sit for about 5-10 minutes, held the gas pedal down and cranked it up. Car fired up no problem. Drove it back to my hometown with no issues and no codes.
4. Park the car in my hometown and run inside a store for 5-10 minutes. Come back out and try to start the car. Revs up very high again then dies.
5. Again I try to let it sit and start it, this time to no avail. It cranks very hard though, all electronics glowing bright.
6. Tried to start it about 3 times and threw a code P2195 O2 bank 1 sensor 1 stuck lean (the O2 in the manifold.)
7. I left the car overnight as it was safe in a parking lot. I took the air filter and the MAF with me when I went home.
8. I cleaned out the air filter as it was very dirty, and cleaned out the MAF with a spray cleaner designed for sensitive electronics.
9. Next day, re-assemble the MAF and filter. Car still will only crank.
10. I installed new spark plugs. Only crank.
11. Tried dri-gas to rule out moisture (my recent tank of gas was 7-11...) still will only crank.
12. New engine codes: P0113 IAT Circuit high input and P0069 MAP/BARO correlation. The O2 sensor code DID NOT return. Thinking its possible I damaged the MAF now.
13. Towed the car back to my house.

I just moved into a new house and have been extremely busy, so I have not had much time to do the due dilligence. However, troubleshooting this might take me a while, so any help pointing me in the right direction will be great.

I plan to change things one at a time and testing to see if the car fires up. I don't want to go any farther than I have to, but I need to get it running again. Currently on my to-check list:
1. Check spark. Checked - no spark
2. Check fuel pump. I hear it turning on, but I just need to make sure. Checked - pump not turning on, no voltage at pump fuse
3. Check battery. Checked - 12.57V
4. Check all fuses. Checked - no blown fuses in engine bay, have not checked dashboard
5. Try to run car in limp mode (MAF unplugged) Checked - will not start w/ MAF unplugged
6. Try car with known good MAF (new or borrowed)
7. Replace O2 sensor
8. Swap back to stock and stock re-flash

I can go around testing everything in my car until I eventually find the issue, however I am hoping that the collection of circumstances detailed above will relate to something someone has already experienced so I can narrow this search down.

If anyone has any suggestions which are either simple or more technically difficult, I am up for anything. My engineering lab at work has almost every kind of meter under the sun, so if there are options for bench testing sensors (cam, crank, etc) or testing them on the vehicle I am up for that.

I will update as I cross things off my to-do list.

Thanks in advance,

Jack G

 

Have you tested the starter? If it just crank and not turn over, it could be the starter going bad. GL hope you get it to work.

 

Thanks for taking the time to reply. Actually, I'm pretty certian that if the starter was bad the motor would not crank. Right now, it sounds like my battery voltage is excellent and my starter is also excellent as the car cranks very nicely.

I'll get a chance to check more tonight.

 

if you turned the key on with the maf unplugged you will have the map/baro codes , and the IAT codes so that sounds normal. AFter you crank it for a while see if the plugs come out wet with fuel. I wouldn't bother reflashing it, it has to be something that just happened because you know the way the car was a week ago worked perfectly. good luck.

 

Excellent info, tyvm.

I never tried to start it with the MAF unplugged, however I don't doubt that what you said was the source of the codes. I'd reckon I could still have a cooked MAF, but it wouldn't prevent the car from starting.

I think you are onto it as far as fuel goes. I'm betting its not getting fuel as when I went to change the plugs, they were not wet.

When I get out of work tonight I will be testing my fuel pump.

 

UPDATE

Had the gf help me check (always need a 2nd pair of hands)

Good:
Checked battery voltage, good at 12.57V (not cranking)
Checked the fuse for Fuel Pump (the 20A fuse in position 10 according to the FSM) for continuity and it was perfect
Checked the other 20A fuse in position 3 according to the FSM for tons of other engine components, that was good also
Tried to start the car with MAF disconnected this time, no change.

Bad:
Had the gf turn the power on while I had my ear up to the gas tank. Did NOT hear the fuel pump kick on.
Removed the 20A fuse for Fuel Pump and had the gf crank while I checked voltage between the fuse connection and ground. No voltage. This could mean bad relay or something else?
Also, checked spark. Had the gf turn the car to on position while I tried to arc the plug to ground. No result. Also had the gf crank the car while I had the plug out and I watched it. No arcing. Sounds like I had no spark. Someone tell me if I did this wrong.



Bad ECU? Bad CAS? I am not throwing a CAS code.

 

Since it has no spark or fuel I'd take a close look at cam pos sensor. You may even want to remove the cover that is held on the side with three 10s and check trigger wheel is still tight. Also you can try to swap the intake cam sensor with the exhaust. The exhaust is used to refrence the engines rotation vs the intake is just for mivec.

 

Ah, I thought it was the crank sensor that was critical for starting. I guess it looks at the cam too. I'll definitely give those a shot, but it will probably have to wait for Thursday or even the weekend as my next 2 nights are all booked up

 

After talking with some guys at work, they believe it may also be the crank position sensor, or still just a fuel pump issue, possibly the relay.

The theory is that the ECU will not start spark if there is insufficient fuel pressure. Is this true?

 

Morning bump, Still cant start my car and drive to work lucky my co-worker lives down the street and has been giving me rides...

 

need more than a bump man. what have you tried since you last posted. try swapping the intake cam sensor with the exhaust. If you get no fuel or ignition your issue is with power to the ecu, or cam sensor/crank sensor more than likely. have you checked all the fuses on the positive battery terminal itself?

 

Sorry I don't have more info to come back with yet. Been working extra long hours lately and my nights are constantly booked up, so I have to wait for the weekend, and I'm away most of this weekend for the holiday. Only reason I would bump with no updates is to get different opinions so when my rare window of time to do some work pops up I have more than 1 thing to try, or options if the cam sensor swap ends up not working.

I did not check the battery fuses - I was unaware there was more than 1 fuse at the terminal. I can check those when I get home as that's relatively fast.

In the meantime, does anyone know if the ECU will stop spark if there is insufficient fuel?

Thanks again for your info/support!!

 

Updates:

Checked both positive battery terminal fuses - both ok

Tried to jump the car in case battery was weak - no dice

Swapped intake cam position sensor for exhaust cam position sensor to rule out failed exhaust sensor - no dice

20gmr - when you said remove the 3 10mm bolts, I popped off the covers of the sensor housing since that had the 3x 10mm bolts, but inside all I saw was what looked like a rotating metal assembly with a few tabs on it. So instead I put that back on and just took off the 1x 10mm bolt holding the actual sensor on and removed it from its port and swapped those. I'm pretty sure the rotating metal assembly inside the position sensor housing is just to trigger the sensor itself - I think these are hall effect sensors?

Checked the resistance between each pin on the sensors to rule out shorts - both good

Turned power on and checked the harnesses to make sure there was no bad reference - both sensors had solid 5v reference, solid 12v power, and 0v from reference to line.

HOWEVER - I experienced something strange on both harness plugs. While checking for 0v between the 5v reference and the 12v power, i noticed that if i bent/moved the wiring harness slightly I would get a transient of about 7-7.25V from the reference to the power terminal. If I was not deforming the harness at all it read a solid 0V. It seemed as if the stress from messing with the harness was moving the pins too much inside the connector or something? Is this normal? Did I just have a bad connection with my meter and I am actually SUPPOSED to see 7V across those terminals?

Well, quite a few things down, and no starting yet. I'll be looking at the crank position sensor next (once I find it)

 

Hopefully have someone coming up on Sunday with an ECU to swap in to see if that works.

In the meantime, is anyone aware of anything in the computer or wiring which will cause no spark if there is insufficient fuel?

 

Unless you have a tactrix cable and ecuflash you won't be able to change the immobilizer so the car won't run anyway. I will rack my brain some
more and give you a few thongs to try while your tinkering.