Rate this installation. :/
haha. Oh man. what a knee slapper.
Your intake, bov, and UICP need to be congruent.
If you're going to run the stock diverter valve (stock 9 one is actually quite nice) you have a few options.
Intake: you can run the stock tube or a Samco replacement. I've done both.
Bov: I would recommend using your stock 9 valve.
UICP: stock upper pipe with factory hoses. I would upgrade the clamps to t-bolt clamps. Silicon Intakes.com sells a complete t-bolt clamp kit for your car.
If you want to run your HKS SSQV... it requires a bit more work. Most aftermarket UICP (upper intercooler pipes) are what we call "short route" meaning they cut across the engine bay instead of going around things. This short route requires a mini-battery and mini-battery or all together relocation of the battery.
Mini-Battery tray kit: I recommend Nisei. I have it on my car
Mini-Battery: Odyssey PCS680
UICP: ETS (Extreme Turbo Systems): Call and ask for Michael... tell him what bov you have...done!
Intake: ETS Since you're not recirculating your bov with the SSQV...you'll need to plug your aftermarket intake or get one without the port on it. I would recommend the ETS intake tube.
BOV: SSQV (that was the whole reason for the rest of the crap right?) lol
I hope that explains things better.
When in doubt... never cut or modify... you're most likely wrong. Especially when you buy expensive parts not made in someone's garage
Also that is NOT the right battery for your car. Your positive terminal is VERY close to your bov... I see a shorted power supply in your future. You need to cover your positive terminal as well with the factory plastic piece.
If you need to purchase some OEM parts... hit up Russell@Mitsubishiparts.net He'll take care of you
Your intake, bov, and UICP need to be congruent.
If you're going to run the stock diverter valve (stock 9 one is actually quite nice) you have a few options.
Intake: you can run the stock tube or a Samco replacement. I've done both.
Bov: I would recommend using your stock 9 valve.
UICP: stock upper pipe with factory hoses. I would upgrade the clamps to t-bolt clamps. Silicon Intakes.com sells a complete t-bolt clamp kit for your car.
If you want to run your HKS SSQV... it requires a bit more work. Most aftermarket UICP (upper intercooler pipes) are what we call "short route" meaning they cut across the engine bay instead of going around things. This short route requires a mini-battery and mini-battery or all together relocation of the battery.
Mini-Battery tray kit: I recommend Nisei. I have it on my car
Mini-Battery: Odyssey PCS680
UICP: ETS (Extreme Turbo Systems): Call and ask for Michael... tell him what bov you have...done!
Intake: ETS Since you're not recirculating your bov with the SSQV...you'll need to plug your aftermarket intake or get one without the port on it. I would recommend the ETS intake tube.
BOV: SSQV (that was the whole reason for the rest of the crap right?) lol
I hope that explains things better.
When in doubt... never cut or modify... you're most likely wrong. Especially when you buy expensive parts not made in someone's garage
Also that is NOT the right battery for your car. Your positive terminal is VERY close to your bov... I see a shorted power supply in your future. You need to cover your positive terminal as well with the factory plastic piece.
If you need to purchase some OEM parts... hit up Russell@Mitsubishiparts.net He'll take care of you
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Thanks alot for the help guys. Quite appreciated.
TODAY'S UPDATE
1- OIL CHANGE: Oil was black.... like rotten dead black. After that I went for a ride and I could already feel a difference... thats a good thing because I feel I get more response from the engine and it seems to run smoother now...., the bad side: it's scary not knowing when was last time the oil was changed..
2- GEAR OIL : It was so liquid... like brown water. It didnt look like oil anymore. I felt violated but kept going on and replaced it with brand new oil.
3- DIFFERENTIAL OIL : It looked good and felt good. I replaced it.
4- ACD PURGE : Ok this one didnt go well. My ACD leaks since I bought the car and Ive never been able to find where. I felt like bleeding the bastard to death today and get the air out and everything to replace with brand new ACD oil and see if the bleeding help because Im sure there was air in there which probably didnt help at all (even tho I dont have the 3 lights but only one light opened in the dash which mean the acd still worked as long as I put oil..I guess?) . So we purge....purge and purge again (accessory mode with he gaz pedal being pressed to make the pump work). Air is coming out...excellent! ... then black oil... then black GOO.... then white stuff.... At some point nothing else wants to get out so I put oil back in the bottle and start pumping again but now the pump makes a bad noise... like if its struggling to get the liquid inside but it stop pumping after 2-3 pull and I could only get to fit about half the quart in, it would pump anymore and very little was coming out the bleeder... We call it a day for the ACD pump, fill it up to max and cross our fingers... I have to look at it now, probably back down to emptiness since I drove back home.
5- CAT OPENED : Took out the cat, destroyed the inside so nothing is left. Im now rolling on free flow cat, it seemed to help a bit to steady the psi but hasnt changed that much, im feeling the exhaust was not that bad, cat wasnt clogged and I have 3" catback with apexi muffler.
After all this, im getting a more steady psi and it goes about 2-3 psi higher, im at about 16psi peak right now but still goes down fast to 14psi and can now keep it there more easily instead of going back down to around 10-12 psi with lots of fluttering. The HSK BOV is probably the main problem right now.
CONCLUSION: Im going back with the OEM BOV (I'll have to order one) and full INJEN UICP like it should have been..
TODAY'S UPDATE
1- OIL CHANGE: Oil was black.... like rotten dead black. After that I went for a ride and I could already feel a difference... thats a good thing because I feel I get more response from the engine and it seems to run smoother now...., the bad side: it's scary not knowing when was last time the oil was changed..
2- GEAR OIL : It was so liquid... like brown water. It didnt look like oil anymore. I felt violated but kept going on and replaced it with brand new oil.
3- DIFFERENTIAL OIL : It looked good and felt good. I replaced it.
4- ACD PURGE : Ok this one didnt go well. My ACD leaks since I bought the car and Ive never been able to find where. I felt like bleeding the bastard to death today and get the air out and everything to replace with brand new ACD oil and see if the bleeding help because Im sure there was air in there which probably didnt help at all (even tho I dont have the 3 lights but only one light opened in the dash which mean the acd still worked as long as I put oil..I guess?) . So we purge....purge and purge again (accessory mode with he gaz pedal being pressed to make the pump work). Air is coming out...excellent! ... then black oil... then black GOO.... then white stuff.... At some point nothing else wants to get out so I put oil back in the bottle and start pumping again but now the pump makes a bad noise... like if its struggling to get the liquid inside but it stop pumping after 2-3 pull and I could only get to fit about half the quart in, it would pump anymore and very little was coming out the bleeder... We call it a day for the ACD pump, fill it up to max and cross our fingers... I have to look at it now, probably back down to emptiness since I drove back home.
5- CAT OPENED : Took out the cat, destroyed the inside so nothing is left. Im now rolling on free flow cat, it seemed to help a bit to steady the psi but hasnt changed that much, im feeling the exhaust was not that bad, cat wasnt clogged and I have 3" catback with apexi muffler.
After all this, im getting a more steady psi and it goes about 2-3 psi higher, im at about 16psi peak right now but still goes down fast to 14psi and can now keep it there more easily instead of going back down to around 10-12 psi with lots of fluttering. The HSK BOV is probably the main problem right now.
CONCLUSION: Im going back with the OEM BOV (I'll have to order one) and full INJEN UICP like it should have been..
Replies within.
Do you have tactrix cable and Evoscan yet? If not.... you need it.
Thanks alot for the help guys. Quite appreciated.
TODAY'S UPDATE
1- OIL CHANGE: Oil was black.... like rotten dead black. After that I went for a ride and I could already feel a difference... thats a good thing because I feel I get more response from the engine and it seems to run smoother now...., the bad side: it's scary not knowing when was last time the oil was changed..
Good... you might consider changing it again after 1500 miles or so... helps flush the oil cooler and other hard to get places out. You should be using the factory crush washers on your drain plug..don't reuse it. again...for OEM parts Russell@ Mitsubishi parts.net
2- GEAR OIL : It was so liquid... like brown water. It didnt look like oil anymore. I felt violated but kept going on and replaced it with brand new oil.
What fluid did you use? This is very important. You can dick your gear box in a hurry with the wrong fluid. Furthermore it won't shift for crap. I run Redline Synthetic MT-90 (2 quarts) and Redline MTL (1 quart) in the transmission. A trick for filling the transmission... there is a bolt on the top of the gear box you can pull to pour your fluid into instead of pumping it into the gear box.
Transfer case - OVERFILL with Redline Heavyweight shockproof.
3- DIFFERENTIAL OIL : It looked good and felt good. I replaced it.
Diff - OVERFILL with Redline Heavyweight shockproof (+lsd additive!) I use a little pump that fits on top of the bottle for filling the diff and xfer case up.
4- ACD PURGE : Ok this one didnt go well. My ACD leaks since I bought the car and Ive never been able to find where. The ACD (red ATF fluid?) or the transfer case fluid? I felt like bleeding the bastard to death today and get the air out and everything to replace with brand new ACD oil and see if the bleeding help because Im sure there was air in there which probably didnt help at all (even tho I dont have the 3 lights but only one light opened in the dash which mean the acd still worked as long as I put oil..I guess?) . So we purge....purge and purge again (accessory mode with he gaz pedal being pressed to make the pump work). Air is coming out...excellent! ... then black oil... then black GOO.... then white stuff.... At some point nothing else wants to get out so I put oil back in the bottle and start pumping again but now the pump makes a bad noise... like if its struggling to get the liquid inside but it stop pumping after 2-3 pull and I could only get to fit about half the quart in, it would pump anymore and very little was coming out the bleeder... We call it a day for the ACD pump, fill it up to max and cross our fingers... I have to look at it now, probably back down to emptiness since I drove back home.
You may have suffered an ACD pump failure from running dry. Hit up Aaron @ English Racing... he's knows his ACD and may be able to give you some pointers.
5- CAT OPENED : Took out the cat, destroyed the inside so nothing is left. Im now rolling on free flow cat, it seemed to help a bit to steady the psi but hasnt changed that much, im feeling the exhaust was not that bad, cat wasnt clogged and I have 3" catback with apexi muffler.
After all this, im getting a more steady psi and it goes about 2-3 psi higher, im at about 16psi peak right now but still goes down fast to 14psi and can now keep it there more easily instead of going back down to around 10-12 psi with lots of fluttering. The HSK BOV is probably the main problem right now.
CONCLUSION: Im going back with the OEM BOV (I'll have to order one) and full INJEN UICP like it should have been..
i wouldn't run the Injen UICP.... i would run a nisei or ETS setup.... my opinion
TODAY'S UPDATE
1- OIL CHANGE: Oil was black.... like rotten dead black. After that I went for a ride and I could already feel a difference... thats a good thing because I feel I get more response from the engine and it seems to run smoother now...., the bad side: it's scary not knowing when was last time the oil was changed..
Good... you might consider changing it again after 1500 miles or so... helps flush the oil cooler and other hard to get places out. You should be using the factory crush washers on your drain plug..don't reuse it. again...for OEM parts Russell@ Mitsubishi parts.net
2- GEAR OIL : It was so liquid... like brown water. It didnt look like oil anymore. I felt violated but kept going on and replaced it with brand new oil.
What fluid did you use? This is very important. You can dick your gear box in a hurry with the wrong fluid. Furthermore it won't shift for crap. I run Redline Synthetic MT-90 (2 quarts) and Redline MTL (1 quart) in the transmission. A trick for filling the transmission... there is a bolt on the top of the gear box you can pull to pour your fluid into instead of pumping it into the gear box.
Transfer case - OVERFILL with Redline Heavyweight shockproof.
3- DIFFERENTIAL OIL : It looked good and felt good. I replaced it.
Diff - OVERFILL with Redline Heavyweight shockproof (+lsd additive!) I use a little pump that fits on top of the bottle for filling the diff and xfer case up.
4- ACD PURGE : Ok this one didnt go well. My ACD leaks since I bought the car and Ive never been able to find where. The ACD (red ATF fluid?) or the transfer case fluid? I felt like bleeding the bastard to death today and get the air out and everything to replace with brand new ACD oil and see if the bleeding help because Im sure there was air in there which probably didnt help at all (even tho I dont have the 3 lights but only one light opened in the dash which mean the acd still worked as long as I put oil..I guess?) . So we purge....purge and purge again (accessory mode with he gaz pedal being pressed to make the pump work). Air is coming out...excellent! ... then black oil... then black GOO.... then white stuff.... At some point nothing else wants to get out so I put oil back in the bottle and start pumping again but now the pump makes a bad noise... like if its struggling to get the liquid inside but it stop pumping after 2-3 pull and I could only get to fit about half the quart in, it would pump anymore and very little was coming out the bleeder... We call it a day for the ACD pump, fill it up to max and cross our fingers... I have to look at it now, probably back down to emptiness since I drove back home.
You may have suffered an ACD pump failure from running dry. Hit up Aaron @ English Racing... he's knows his ACD
and may be able to give you some pointers.5- CAT OPENED : Took out the cat, destroyed the inside so nothing is left. Im now rolling on free flow cat, it seemed to help a bit to steady the psi but hasnt changed that much, im feeling the exhaust was not that bad, cat wasnt clogged and I have 3" catback with apexi muffler.
After all this, im getting a more steady psi and it goes about 2-3 psi higher, im at about 16psi peak right now but still goes down fast to 14psi and can now keep it there more easily instead of going back down to around 10-12 psi with lots of fluttering. The HSK BOV is probably the main problem right now.
CONCLUSION: Im going back with the OEM BOV (I'll have to order one) and full INJEN UICP like it should have been..
i wouldn't run the Injen UICP.... i would run a nisei or ETS setup.... my opinion
Just for the record I know alot of people talk down on the HKS SSQ, but I have it and really like it. Holds 22 psi no problem. Is the "flutter" under WOT or partial throttle? I run royal purple in the tranny, transfer case and rear diff. Just my 0.02
The HKS SSQV with pipe wasn't sold to recirculate the air back into the air intake like the stock BOV, that's why it's in the upper position. I know, that's how mine was. HKS makes a recirc fitting but you have to do the fab work. Not sure how much this quites things down, but I'm getting mine done Friday & will let you know.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Well, I was in a rush to find answers to my problems and getting a better flow from the exhaust was a priority... But you have a point, I knew it was worth something but didnt know it could sell for that much
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Droppin knowledge! Oh and for the record, do NOT put the bov on the intake that defeats the purpose of it. Bov releases boost pressure when the throttle plate closes, if its on the intake its not doing anything. As for the original question the flutter is probably being causee by the bottle cap, that will not hold boost. GL!
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Canada
as soon as I understand this car and know what im doing, i'll be my own mechanic. It KILLS me to leave my car to anybody. Stuff like that would have never happened if I had a place where I could work on my car and take all the time in the world to do each thing correctly..At least I've learned alot lately working with him doing many things ive never done before.
