Ok so here in Canada no one knows about these cars so we have to do everything by ourselves mostly...

A good friend of mine has a garage and tries to help me but I always am suspicious of everything and im in a state of paranoïa most of the time when we chnage something on the car or try to find solutions to the many problems I've found so far on my car since I bought it...

The car came with a damn HKS ssqv and I never like it and never will... the thing is too lound and I wish I had the oem bov but for now Im living with it because I try to use the money for more important stuff to do on the car.

I've always found suspicious the installation of the HKS BOV on my car ... on every pictures I see, the bov is located right before the turbo , bolted right on the intake and some other pipe (I cant remember which one but you probably know which one im talking about.)

Anyways so today we installed the injen piping (intake, upper and under IC piping) THe freaking HSK valve did not fit at all and I was missing all the fitting and goodies thats supposed to come with it when its new... so my friend had to CUT IN THE INJEN UPPER PIPING (the longuest one I think wich goes around the stock battery) and use the HSK fitting (pipe) so that he could put the HKS BOV back where it was....

MY PROBLEM IS THIS : Isnt the BOV in the wrong place to start with???? He put it back where is was installed when I bought the car (using the OEM piping with the HKS fitting pipe) but is it good or wrong? I feel theres a world of difference before and after the turbo, its not doing the same job?

Im trying to understand why my PSI is not going anywhere over 1.2-1.3 bar and doesnt stay there for more than about 1-2 second to drop back under 1bar and flutter up and down by about 2 PSI ... Could the bov be the problem? Theres also the fact that I think my exhaust is probably not flowing correctly either (oem exhaust with APEXi muffler) ... feels like if the catback was jammed...when I accelerate hard , sometimes it will lose power for about 0.5 seconds... like some kind of very gentle backfire but no sound....

Thanks alot for helping guys, you are my main source of answers!! This is killing me

PICS:

 

oh boy...

The BOV is supposed to be between the turbo outlet and the intake manifold, anywhere inbetween will do.

Scorke

 

I'll try to find some pics of it installed correctly, Im not sure I understand.

 

it looks like the nipple on the upper pipe is being capped with a bottle cap, I think i can see the groves. That might be the problem right there, you not holding boost.

 

is it just me, or does it look like the intake pipe is on backwards ? lol..... bov location is fine, but there should be a pipe to vent it back to the intake pipe so it won't stall out, run lean.. blah blah..

 

xtreme5369: Before the installation of the injen piping I had the same problem with the oem piping and stock air box...however I dont think the psi was fluttering(sp?) up and down .. which could be a reason I guess...

 

The BOV will work on both the intake or the UICP. just make sure you dont have a boost leak. Boost leak test FTW. you can search on here and find out how to do them they are very easy. AS for you exhaust flowing problem. Your Catalytic converter could be plugged. Get a test pipe, no restriction also equals more power. unless you guys have emissions checks up there?

EDIT: Also your BOV isnt being recirculated back into the intake system. Serioulsy hurry up and buy an OEM bov, or the recirculation kit for the HKS.

 

that install is messed up. the uicp look like the pieces are reversed?

but ya, BOV is definitely causing you issues.

*** edit, is that a bottle cap as a plug for the diverter valve flange?

 

GG_9_SE : We dont have much emission checks here but the cops are a pain the butt, too much sound = ticket... so i must keep it as quiet as possible (Im not quiet at all right now with the apexi anyways..). Anyone can recommend me a good turbo back exhaust I could get? Cheap and quiet. I feel the exhaust is the only place I can go on the cheap side a bit...as long as it flows well and its quiet.

 

damn... guess I'll need to order an oem BOV and a damn upper pipe kit again because this one had to be cut to fit the hks pipe and the oem part (the pipe part that isnt black is oem)..

 

Yes, looks kinda funny there. Double check, go to the vendor website and download the instructions if needed. Additionally I would use T-Bolt clamps on your I/C piping as well. Those are cheap clamps and loosen easily. That can cause a boost leak right there. Your Intake plumbing just doesn't look right to me. It does look reversed. BOV location varies but your ok there. Just make sure its adjusted properly. Some use different spring rates so make sure yours is set up for the Boost that your using. Goodluck.

 

Here a pick Ive found of another one installed on a vendor website... I guess its ok and not reversed? Or I could propably use some rotation a bit toward the engine?

PS: I'll probaly install t-clamps eventually.. but they are quite expensive here and just wanted to see if I could go without for a while...trying to put the money for the major problems right now (acd pump leaking somewhere like a pig but can find the freaking leak..thats another story)

 

look at your piping, and look at the pic.

the uicp in yours is not the same. at all. its the stock one, in the wrong spot (notice the busted bracket....

its like a jigsaw puzzle gone wrong.

PS - where in Canada are you? Not true about nobody knowing about these cars... you just have to know where to look.

 

The upper piping is a stock part + hsk fitting part + shortened injen pipe like explained in first post. all this because of the damn hks bov..

Im from Quebec Canada

 

haha. Oh man. what a knee slapper.

Your intake, bov, and UICP need to be congruent.

If you're going to run the stock diverter valve (stock 9 one is actually quite nice) you have a few options.

Intake: you can run the stock tube or a Samco replacement. I've done both.
Bov: I would recommend using your stock 9 valve.
UICP: stock upper pipe with factory hoses. I would upgrade the clamps to t-bolt clamps. Silicon Intakes.com sells a complete t-bolt clamp kit for your car.

If you want to run your HKS SSQV... it requires a bit more work. Most aftermarket UICP (upper intercooler pipes) are what we call "short route" meaning they cut across the engine bay instead of going around things. This short route requires a mini-battery and mini-battery or all together relocation of the battery.

Mini-Battery tray kit: I recommend Nisei. I have it on my car
Mini-Battery: Odyssey PCS680
UICP: ETS (Extreme Turbo Systems): Call and ask for Michael... tell him what bov you have...done!
Intake: ETS Since you're not recirculating your bov with the SSQV...you'll need to plug your aftermarket intake or get one without the port on it. I would recommend the ETS intake tube.
BOV: SSQV (that was the whole reason for the rest of the crap right?) lol

I hope that explains things better.

When in doubt... never cut or modify... you're most likely wrong. Especially when you buy expensive parts not made in someone's garage


Also that is NOT the right battery for your car. Your positive terminal is VERY close to your bov... I see a shorted power supply in your future. You need to cover your positive terminal as well with the factory plastic piece.

If you need to purchase some OEM parts... hit up Russell@Mitsubishiparts.net He'll take care of you