creating more power with a proper external wastegate dump setup
creating more power with a proper external wastegate dump setup
I've just seen several setups on here where the dumptube is not long enough to release wastegate gases out from the engine bay. I believe having short dumps where it can dump into the engine bay is robbing you power.
reply from another forum from a honda tuner
reply from another forum from a honda tuner
Originally Posted by boosted hybrid
No, egr is the story. If you are discharging hot exhaust gas into the compressor that is one thing, if the discharge is pointed in the complete opposite direction and power loss is severe that is another.
Exhaust gas recirculation kills power. EGR is for emissions purposes on OEM applications. N0x is greatly reduced using EGR, and thus lowers formation for emissions purposes. This also reduces power potential from an engine.
In a forced induction application, the compressor inlet generally sits within the area near the dumptube discharge. With no dumptube, the wastegate exhaust gas discharge is expelled into the area in the engine bay. Even if the discharge is not pointed in the direction of the compressor inlet (i.e wastage discharge pointed downwards on EL manifolds, wastegate discharge pointed towards radiator on log manifolds, etc), the available oxygen content in the engine bay is severly reduced. When you compromise the available oxygen being injested into the engine through the compressor inlet (the only available air source), you lose power. Less oxygen available in the combustion process, less cylinder pressure developed and less torque and power produced.
There has been many customers that come for tuning that have a dumptube, but does not go underneath the oil pan. While on the dyno, the discharge reflects off of the floor of the shop and gets injested into the engine. By simply adding a flexible extension on the dumptube to bring the exhaust gas underneath the car, i have seen gains of anywhere from 10-50whp. I have had multiple customers cars that dont have a dumptube at all, and by adding a dumptube underneath the oil pan have picked up between 20-90whp worth of power.
Here are some examples that i have collected from past tuning sessions:

*This was on an LS engine that had no dumptube. It was using a log manifold, with a tial 38mm gate. The discharge was spraying downwards in the engine bay, with the compressor inlet facing the passenger side. By simply fabricating a dumptube that went underneath the oil pan the gains seen in the dynochart were realized. Solid lines being same psi and tune with just the dumptube added.

*This was on a FR equipped built b16a engine. The FR kits do not come with dumptubes (nor do any other kits out there). The compressor outlet on the 44mm gate was pointed towards the radiator, compressor inlet on drivers side. By rotating the dumptube up towards the ceiling, and adding a 5" extension 90whp worth of power at the same psi level and tune were realized. NO OTHER CHANGES WERE MADE! EGR is very significant.

*This car had a dumptube with a traditional log manifold. It pointed downward and stopped half way down the radiator. By simply adding a 90 extension to the dumptube and pointing the discharge under the oil pan, the gains showed were realized.
I have many more graphs that prove this theory correct. By adding a dumptube that goes under the oil pan, or adding an extension to an existing one power output is dramatically increased. It not only makes more power, but the engines ability to knock is greatly reduced. Its a simple, overlooked item that will make a dramatical power difference.
Exhaust gas recirculation kills power. EGR is for emissions purposes on OEM applications. N0x is greatly reduced using EGR, and thus lowers formation for emissions purposes. This also reduces power potential from an engine.
In a forced induction application, the compressor inlet generally sits within the area near the dumptube discharge. With no dumptube, the wastegate exhaust gas discharge is expelled into the area in the engine bay. Even if the discharge is not pointed in the direction of the compressor inlet (i.e wastage discharge pointed downwards on EL manifolds, wastegate discharge pointed towards radiator on log manifolds, etc), the available oxygen content in the engine bay is severly reduced. When you compromise the available oxygen being injested into the engine through the compressor inlet (the only available air source), you lose power. Less oxygen available in the combustion process, less cylinder pressure developed and less torque and power produced.
There has been many customers that come for tuning that have a dumptube, but does not go underneath the oil pan. While on the dyno, the discharge reflects off of the floor of the shop and gets injested into the engine. By simply adding a flexible extension on the dumptube to bring the exhaust gas underneath the car, i have seen gains of anywhere from 10-50whp. I have had multiple customers cars that dont have a dumptube at all, and by adding a dumptube underneath the oil pan have picked up between 20-90whp worth of power.
Here are some examples that i have collected from past tuning sessions:

*This was on an LS engine that had no dumptube. It was using a log manifold, with a tial 38mm gate. The discharge was spraying downwards in the engine bay, with the compressor inlet facing the passenger side. By simply fabricating a dumptube that went underneath the oil pan the gains seen in the dynochart were realized. Solid lines being same psi and tune with just the dumptube added.

*This was on a FR equipped built b16a engine. The FR kits do not come with dumptubes (nor do any other kits out there). The compressor outlet on the 44mm gate was pointed towards the radiator, compressor inlet on drivers side. By rotating the dumptube up towards the ceiling, and adding a 5" extension 90whp worth of power at the same psi level and tune were realized. NO OTHER CHANGES WERE MADE! EGR is very significant.

*This car had a dumptube with a traditional log manifold. It pointed downward and stopped half way down the radiator. By simply adding a 90 extension to the dumptube and pointing the discharge under the oil pan, the gains showed were realized.
I have many more graphs that prove this theory correct. By adding a dumptube that goes under the oil pan, or adding an extension to an existing one power output is dramatically increased. It not only makes more power, but the engines ability to knock is greatly reduced. Its a simple, overlooked item that will make a dramatical power difference.
very interesting. at 400whp the turbo is moving about 650 CFM. that is around 10 cubic feet of air every second. since engine compartment is about 5 cubic feet of air space, image the compartment being sucked dry twice every second. some dumped exhaust gasses easily making there way back into intake
this is very much like the discovery nitrous intercooler chillers were adding power not because of the cooled I/C but because the nitrous was getting sucked into intake.
could also be the reason some are not seeing gains on dyno from dumps, but at track they are good for ~3 mph. since airflow under car is not so great during dyno session.
this is very much like the discovery nitrous intercooler chillers were adding power not because of the cooled I/C but because the nitrous was getting sucked into intake.
could also be the reason some are not seeing gains on dyno from dumps, but at track they are good for ~3 mph. since airflow under car is not so great during dyno session.
Last edited by 94AWDcoupe; Aug 13, 2010 at 06:23 AM.
Good test but I really don't believe that your gonna gain up to 50 whp.I agree your sucking back in hot air when it's on the dyno cause the car is sitting in one spot but when you drive on the street the car is moving at high speed's so the hot air doesn't get trapped anywhere..As far as having it recirculated yes you lose power ,then you'll see 10 to 50 whp gains from dumping it..
Good test but I really don't believe that your gonna gain up to 50 whp.I agree your sucking back in hot air when it's on the dyno cause the car is sitting in one spot but when you drive on the street the car is moving at high speed's so the hot air doesn't get trapped anywhere..As far as having it recirculated yes you lose power ,then you'll see 10 to 50 whp gains from dumping it..
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Around 6 years ago I has a fully built buick grand national with a rec.dump I had my local tuner convince me that it would free up 50 whp cause there were seeing these gains on turbo hondas when you did this mod I only picked up 12 whp but my turbo spooled alot faster and held more boost up top better..Hondas are not a good example thus there not turbo charged from the factory so there really restricted so when you do that to them that's why they see gains when doing something like this..If the pipe is half way down your fine but all the way to the pan is safer due to any flames or excess hot gases being released!!I rememberd mine is all the way down but that's how many kit came.
Around 6 years ago I has a fully built buick grand national with a rec.dump I had my local tuner convince me that it would free up 50 whp cause there were seeing these gains on turbo hondas when you did this mod I only picked up 12 whp but my turbo spooled alot faster and held more boost up top better..Hondas are not a good example thus there not turbo charged from the factory so there really restricted so when you do that to them that's why they see gains when doing something like this..If the pipe is half way down your fine but all the way to the pan is safer due to any flames or excess hot gases being released!!I rememberd mine is all the way down but that's how many kit came.
thats why 1.8 honda motors pushing 18 psi can make over 450 whp b/c the air flows efficiently combusting and not building more pressure than it needs to.
Around 6 years ago I has a fully built buick grand national with a rec.dump I had my local tuner convince me that it would free up 50 whp cause there were seeing these gains on turbo hondas when you did this mod I only picked up 12 whp but my turbo spooled alot faster and held more boost up top better..Hondas are not a good example thus there not turbo charged from the factory so there really restricted so when you do that to them that's why they see gains when doing something like this..If the pipe is half way down your fine but all the way to the pan is safer due to any flames or excess hot gases being released!!I rememberd mine is all the way down but that's how many kit came.
The cars in the examples above were already turbocharged but without
Honda cylinder heads shame Mitsu cylinder heads. The 4B11 has just now caught up to the B-series (the last car wearing this head came out in '01) in regards to flow. And it's no contest when you compare the 4B11 to the K-series and F-series heads (AP1/2) which have both been around for just about 10 years. Like igo4bmx said above, that's the reason they can make ridiculous power on such low boost, and take off at higher boost levels.
How much power will your car actually gain from extending the dump tube will obviously vary. But if Jeff Evans is seeing these gains from making the change, then it's real.
I wonder how cars with an OEM Air Box, or a air filter with a block off plate would be effected by this.
-Jalal


