My 25k Platinum Credit card has an interest rate of 8.99. The only way you get 20+% is if your credit is REALLY bad or you miss payments and your card defaults to a higher interest rate.

A lot of times a personal loan is between 10-12%...

There is my financial 2 cents!

Mikey

 

put car labor on credit card not all the parts plus labor LOL 10k is not enough for everything more like 18k-22k lol

 

How about save half what you need, after that apply for a new credit card that offers no Interest for 12 months for the entire amount. You also may want to add 2k to whatever you're quoted for the build as cushion in case there are problems or upgrades that were not budgeted in. Simply pay it off in a year with no interest and build credit at the same time. I did that 4 years ago with my mr2 to build my credit since I didn't have a credit history. But you must be disciplined when it comes to money, because those credit card offers have really high interest rates after the year and you're F'ed (>20% interest) if you dont pay off your balance in the first year.

 

18k-22k ??? For what a stock car to get fully built with every single top priced part lol

 

My full build ER just totaled and it was over 18k

Mikey

 

yes thats just engine mods not exterior and that would include saving some cash here and there ill be happy to send you my mod list and prices

 

My full build, including interior, exterior, LR2.4, etc., etc., etc. is costing alomst $70K total. That's a bunch of custom stuff too and paint. It's very easy to spend the above-mentioned figures on the motor. Granted, I'm going all-out, full-blown show/drag car with all top-shelf parts, but still... This silliness isn't cheap!

 

You would be surprised how much you spend... it all adds up fast!

 

i understand you did a high end build with a lot of custom parts and thats going to cost you for sure, but i was only talking about a off the shelf standard built long block, trans, clutch and lobar + good core trade!

sh!! i prob put over 15k in mods alone into my car now as its sits, but im not counting that

 

bbyevo im going to send you my stuff does not include built tranny or transfer case give you a real ideal of what it cost man a full build is really something that must be planned out costwise verus real life responsibilities. Dont forget things happen and might require extra spending

 

you can plan and research all you want. in the end, double the # you come up with and that will be closer.

 

IF you can reduce the mass of the connecting rods and pistons... you can rev these engines higher.

The longrod with the lightweight (short compression height) pistons helps geometricaly (kinematics) as well as forces applied to the bearing, crank, and rod bolts.

The next step would be using a larger stroke crankshaft 102 with the 156mm rods with an even shorter compression height (moving the wrist pin up in the oiling ring much like the LS7 or what AMS does to their 2.3RR) Of course you're going to be increasing the force due to the increase in acceleration for a given RPM... so to counteract... use lighter, exotic, more expensive materials.

This then costs much more than an off the shelf 2.4 crank, rods, and pistons. I think it would be interesting to build a lightweight 2.6L or so. Its interesting because the SRT4 guys are building 2.8L's lol. IMO its the wrong direction, but its interesting to hypothesize.

 

Hi guys,sorry for the silly question but can an evo block withstand a 2.2~2.4 stroker?
What is the economical way to stroke an evo and which block model to get from?

 

a 4g63 can be stroked to a 2.1, 2.2, 2.3 safely i wouldnt stroke it past that

if you want a 2.4l go with the 4g64 block as its a 2.4l unstroked


when i get my motor build i think im going with a 4g64 LR 2.2 with HTA3582 kit! but i know it aint gonna be cheap

 

Bump...