I would do the 7 bolt bearing in whatever brand you choose. I choose ACL when I built my 4g on my talon. I would do the BSE too while everythings apart too. As for what rods to run, I would lookup a few manufacturers and head to their website and look up the specific weights of each of them and choose one.

9 second cars have been ran on a 2.3 and a stock head, so you should be set that way too.

What cams you gonna run?

 

Cosworth Stg2 cams... though I've read you can go bigger with the 2.3 and not sacrifice drivability.

I guess I'm going to start looking at parts now. I am confused about what Carillo is offering... their A-Beam would be like anyone else's I-beam? And they say their H-Beam is stronger than their A-Beam? Did I miss something in that because I've always thought I-beams were the stronger rod type?

 

manley i beam rods ftw all day every day

 

I have assembled a standard 2.0 with Manley TT rods and they were very stout. However, my primary concern about this stroker motor is the huge weight of them... the TTs are 675g/rod, with even the standard Manley I-beams weighing in at 637g/rod. Comparatively I keep hearing that Carillos are somewhere in the ballpark of 560g/rod and Olivers somewhere like 570/rod. Which if it's possible to pull 280g out of the rotating assembly that would be huge for this sort of motor. The JEs supposedly are 285g, so they're pretty light, but still... the lighter the better - whilst not compromising strength/durability.

Ideally, it'll be safe for 8000rpms and 700awhp. It will have an HTA35R.

 

It will be fine with just eagle rods and JE pistons for that RPM and whp level. You aren't planning on this motor running for 100,000 miles right?

 

All the rods/pistons you have mentioned are known for being the best in the business. It all comes down to preferences of the builder/ application. There's no need to over think it bc there are plenty of people that have already done it. If you want the best bang for your buck for dd reliability, also take a look at maperformance heavy duty rods w/ weisco hd 1400 pistons.

 

After some PMs back and forth with Ted B and calling the respective manufacturers, it looks like the final decision is going to be Oliver Rods (MTUL-G - std, not extreme) with JE pistons (270666). Should be roughly 396.3g + 585g = 981.3g + bearing weight. That includes the rings, locks, pins, etc... Not a bad total weight from what I gather. Should be sufficiently stout for the 8000rpm limit and ~700awhp projected. If you look at that total weight versus with a lot of people are running on a 2.0 you'll find it to be pretty good... of course that doesn't bring piston speeds down, but it certainly helps with the forces on the pins and bearings.

The bearings are going to be ACL Race bearings - std clearances. 3/4 groove main. Then ARP mains and studs, ARP dampener bolt, (looking for ARP flywheel + cam bolts)...

Then I need to figure out what headgasket/gasket set set works best for this setup. I've been reading that an OE gasket is a good gasket. If not maybe a Cosworth gasket. Though the price difference seems difficult to justify. Both decks will be freshly cut, so sealing shouldn't be an issue.

I need to find a timing belt kit - ideally with a Kevlar belt - though maybe even just a Gates Performance belt or something would be fine? I'm still working on sourcing a new waterpump, oil pump/cover, and 1 single Supertech intake valve (OE size, Nitride coated). Any input on where to get these parts would be greatly appreciated.

 

This is the most brilliant approach to motor building I've ever heard! 'Just use whatever, no need to have a strong, well built motor that's headache free and lasts a long time. You should deffinately not do a good job the first time, that way you'll have to do it all again later and spend a bunch more money.' Brilliant!!!

 

Some pics of parts that are here already... still waiting on a lot of stuff of course, but got excited about these ones









These rods look absolutely sick. I'm leaving them in the vac sealed bags until I am getting ready for assembly and have a marking pen to keep everything organzed.

 

Do you feel better?

I've seen multiple people make 550-700whp on that setup I posted multiple times and not have a problem yet (20k miles and counting on one of the cars). Just not sure why you would want to spend money on something that you don't need, i think that makes sense to me.

What I have yet to see though, is a built 700whp motor last as long as a stock motor (100k+ miles). Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

To the OP, looks great. I can't wait to see some good numbers pump out of this car.

 

More gratuitous pre-build photos coming very shortly .

Now I'm just starting to try to figure out what I forgot haha.

 

 

Moar whoring

 

you want your motor nice and strout otherwise whats the point in building it use quality proven parts like manley oliver je etc. I have heard read and seen eagle have multiple quality control issues. your comment about 700 vs stock is incorrect i have seen stock motors blow at 20k miles. Its all in how you treat it and what your doing with it. I can build a 700whp motor and last 100k if im not pushing it every second of the day and dragging 4 times on weekends. You assume just because you have the power you will abuse it which is wrong.

 

This^ Eagles have there place, i mean on a budget they're a compromise.......that being said, i would never in a million year put them in my car....heard to many issue with them. I mean the bottom end is one of the most important parts, and a quality rod isn't THAT excpensive....Ah well to each his own.