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Dead lifter? (vid inside)

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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 08:53 PM
  #31  
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No exhaust leak for me, my a/f are pretty rich right now
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 01:16 AM
  #32  
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I'm posting another video I held my phone where the noise was went from left to right then back over to where the noise was, i going right along where the injector injectors are/back of the valve cover.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFKP6H7n5RI&sns=em
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 01:57 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by crckheadjed
I've grown up around cars, restore cars, went to school for cars and autobody so id like to say I have some experience as well.

There's a few options I got, pull pan check rods which I already have a car on my lift right now so gotta wait, I'm gonna pull my vavlve cover again backoff a little and retorque cam caps, and then some say it could be timing belt tensioner (but doubt that since it doesn't sound like its coming from there).


Is there anyway to check see if a lifter is not getting enough oil, as in at higher rpms its not able to pump back up quick enough?
Cool, I hope I didn't come off arrogant I just wanted to say that I knew a bit and that I was not a Mitsu tech .

Figure anything out?
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 02:08 AM
  #34  
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Oh no I wasn't either just stating, not some kid that shouldn't be touching anything haha. Got an hour left at work, gonna go to garage after and pull the vc, just a shot in the dark, but back off and retorque cam caps, and reinspect the cam lobes see if any marks or scoring is visable.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by crckheadjed
Oh no I wasn't either just stating, not some kid that shouldn't be touching anything haha. Got an hour left at work, gonna go to garage after and pull the vc, just a shot in the dark, but back off and retorque cam caps, and reinspect the cam lobes see if any marks or scoring is visable.
That's a good idea. That's the first thing I check when I have a faulty lifter. Hopefully your issue is a lifter.

Do you have a dial indicator?
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 02:26 AM
  #36  
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Yeah I have one, what are you thinking?
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 02:34 AM
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one sec
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 02:45 AM
  #38  
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Use the dial indicator to check for your crank shaft end play, might as well check for run out for the hell of it since you're down there. But you might want to check this first.

What you could do to check for piston slap:

1.) While the engine is COLD and I do mean COLD like first thing int he morning cold. Make sure you have that ticking sound memorized in your head. I'm pretty sure you do. Pull all the spark plugs and put two squirts of motor oil into each cylinder. Reinstall the plugs, start the car and hurry to listen. If that nasty noise gets much quieter or completely gone for around 15 seconds then you know what ur issue is.

Another option I was told by a mechanic a while ago:
1.) Remove 3 spark plugs leaving the number 1 spark plug in place. Manually crank the engine over until you feel resistance of your piston in compression. Your main goal on cranking is to get the piston in compression and half way up the block. So go ahead and crank the engine half way past compression if the first shot does not work. (I have not tried this btw) Use a fan and rock the crank shaft back and forth and listen for the knocking sound. If you hear the knock you have piston slap.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 02:57 AM
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If you pull the head off you should check for valve lash also.




Edit: I meant valve cover.

Last edited by Graphic; Oct 21, 2010 at 04:56 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 03:19 AM
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I kind of ruled out piston slap, the noise happens cold, or full operating temp. And the noise only started more so recently. So its kind of been progressive to what its doing now.

I should be able to get my car on this lift this weekend that's when I'll pull the pan, and also check the runout.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 09:21 AM
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My noise also is the same regardless of operating temp.

I've got some things I want to try this weekend to eliminate some stuff.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by crckheadjed
I kind of ruled out piston slap, the noise happens cold, or full operating temp. And the noise only started more so recently. So its kind of been progressive to what its doing now.

I should be able to get my car on this lift this weekend that's when I'll pull the pan, and also check the runout.

Sweet, I love working 2nd shift and being woken up at 8AM by roofers.

Anyways I was thinking you should try adding oil to each one while it's warm. I mean it cant hurt anything and it would help narrow things down. Even though I know you strongly believe you don't have it. Just because it's cold or warm doesnt mean you wont get it.

Ok so enough about that. Let me know everything you did and how you check it when you get back on here.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Ronnie Size
My noise also is the same regardless of operating temp.

I've got some things I want to try this weekend to eliminate some stuff.
Try to follow some steps in here to narrow down your situation.
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 12:58 AM
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Pulled cover, looked around more carefully nothing loose or out of place. Tiny mark on intake cam, 4th lobe from the left. Not on the ramp, but on the base circle (when valve would be shut)
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 04:52 PM
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Is the valve cover still off? Check clearance with a feeler gauge and see if they're all with in spec.

I doubt this would be it but you could inspect your cam with your dial indicator gauge.

Have you checked compression?
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