Bad Trans.
Bad Trans.
Brief History Exedy clutch (not sure which one was installed when i get it) - launched at 5.5k rpms and after the run, could not engage into 1st gear.
Did Peddle Adjustment, and problem went away.
About 2 months ago, i noticed it was harder to go into reverse with car running, and 4th to 5th would grind slightly.
Now it seems like the clutch is still partially engaged with peddle adjustment all the way out. Also when i push the clutch in (when cold) It chatters, and low RPMs it also chatters.
Is this just a new clutch required or more to it?? clutch fork, syncros.......
Clutch still holds solid.
Did Peddle Adjustment, and problem went away.
About 2 months ago, i noticed it was harder to go into reverse with car running, and 4th to 5th would grind slightly.
Now it seems like the clutch is still partially engaged with peddle adjustment all the way out. Also when i push the clutch in (when cold) It chatters, and low RPMs it also chatters.
Is this just a new clutch required or more to it?? clutch fork, syncros.......

Clutch still holds solid.
This could be one of the following:
1. Air in the clutch lines. (need bleeding)
2. Bad release bearing. (need replacement)
3. Bad clutch (need replacement)
yes.. ur cluch does not disengage properly. you can confirm that by putting it into gear and while pressing the cluch down u start reving the car.. u'll feel that the car is about to move or actually moving..
your gearbox should be fine, the small grind is most probably because the clutch is still slightly engaged while shifting... however, i'll not be surprized if ur syncros and/or gears are slightly worn.
good luck
1. Air in the clutch lines. (need bleeding)
2. Bad release bearing. (need replacement)
3. Bad clutch (need replacement)
yes.. ur cluch does not disengage properly. you can confirm that by putting it into gear and while pressing the cluch down u start reving the car.. u'll feel that the car is about to move or actually moving..
your gearbox should be fine, the small grind is most probably because the clutch is still slightly engaged while shifting... however, i'll not be surprized if ur syncros and/or gears are slightly worn.
good luck
Last edited by al3lwan; Oct 11, 2010 at 12:51 PM.
This could be one of the following:
1. Air in the clutch lines. (need bleeding)
2. Bad release bearing. (need replacement)
3. Bad clutch (need replacement)
yes.. ur cluch does not disengage properly. you can confirm that by putting it into gear and while pressing the cluch down u start reving the car.. u'll feel that the car is about to move or actually moving..
your gearbox should be fine, the small grind is most probably because the clutch is still slightly engaged while shifting... however, i'll not be surprized if ur syncros and/or gears are slightly worn.
good luck
1. Air in the clutch lines. (need bleeding)
2. Bad release bearing. (need replacement)
3. Bad clutch (need replacement)
yes.. ur cluch does not disengage properly. you can confirm that by putting it into gear and while pressing the cluch down u start reving the car.. u'll feel that the car is about to move or actually moving..
your gearbox should be fine, the small grind is most probably because the clutch is still slightly engaged while shifting... however, i'll not be surprized if ur syncros and/or gears are slightly worn.
good luck
I have new bearing and clutch ready to be installed next week, anlong with new built motor.
Thanks for the conformation
after this build i will have a new trans built.
Well if all else fails, i have a new ACT clutch ready to be installed in a week.
... i'd recommend keeping the stock flywheel.. don't go for any alluminium or lightweight ones.
good choice
... is it the MB7-HDSS? i installed it on my old evo 8 in 2008 and on my new evo 9 two months back. it runs gr8, feels like stock, lasts longer, and no problems in hi rev shifts.
... i'd recommend keeping the stock flywheel.. don't go for any alluminium or lightweight ones.
... i'd recommend keeping the stock flywheel.. don't go for any alluminium or lightweight ones.
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