Alexl08

iTrader: (2)

Okay guys Last saturday. I made a pull 2 to 3rd nothing to aggressive like a 2k to 6k pull got to turn at the light on the way home and the car boggs down and shuts off i tried to restart and it let out 5 loud back fires and wouldnt run. Towed her home about .5 miles down the road. Pulled codes the next day it had p0335 and p0340 witch made me think timing belt had jumped a tooth. After clearing the codes and trying to start it only throws p0340 Cam Angle sensor. The car now has new timing belt and belt tensioner new crank angle sensor and as well a new cam angle sensor. The car still wont start all my timing marks are spot on. still throwing p0340 cam angle with the new sensor. Ive searched and tried everything that every one else has done like such as starter ground and other bs. Please please help!!!!!!

iowa_guy

Well having a scan tool with data stream or an O-scope to look at wave forms would be the best in this situation to be able to see if the cam/crank sensors were synched on cranking. I would double check all the connections, and maybe suspect the new sensor if it was not OEM. This is a hall effect type of sensor which means that it is looking at the spaces between a reluctor wheel on the cam. One thing you could check is to turn the key to the on position, and measure voltage with a volt meter between terminal 2 and ground. Voltage should be close to 5 volts, that is the signal the PCM is sending to the sensor as it waits for the feedback. You could try that and let me know if you have voltage. You should also have battery voltage between terminal 3 and ground with key on. Remember this is all measured on the harness side NOT the sensor.

Alexl08

iTrader: (2)

say what now see how much power volts are being sent to the cam angle sensor clip is that what your saying

iowa_guy

the harness that goes to the engine...volt meter set on volts....red lead to pin 2, black lead to ground should see 5 volts or so. red lead to pin 3, black lead to ground should see battery voltage 12 or so. Key on Engine off. Do you have a spark tester or fuel pressure gauge?

gieri002

iTrader: (10)

Just yank coil and throw a spare spark plug on it to to check for spark when its turning over. Check for fuel pressure as well, this will greatly narrow down the problem.

iowa_guy

I got to thinking about that after my elaborate post...I guess I was ASSuming a few things there..lol but you def want to check the basics first dude. Have someone you don't like hold the spark plug...WAIT no...i dont want to be held liable.

Alexl08

iTrader: (2)

its got fuel and spark i can smell the fuel and have checked for spark. It will run but very very very ****tly for like 4 sec. But when i say run its more like a stumble like it hit for maybe 3 or 4 strokes before it dyes out

iowa_guy

Hate to say it, but there is were the scan/scope comes in handy. Was your sensor OEM??

Alexl08

iTrader: (2)

all the sensors are oem

iowa_guy

Did you see the correct timing with your own eyes? Anything get damaged in the R/R? A tone ring bent on the cam or something shift on the crank shaft sprocket?

Alexl08

iTrader: (2)

yes Timing is on tooth on every mark Crank Oil Pump and cam gears. I compression tested it when i figured it jumped timing but it blew 165 psi across when the motor was bone cold

iowa_guy

Battery connections good? Battery charged up? or discharged from all the cranking? Do a visual on the wiring underneath the battery box, or just wiggle the sensors connector itself. If your positive on all the other items.

iowa_guy

Dont know if I was of any help, but please post if you find the problem...good luck man.

FedEvo8

Did any intercooler hoses pop off?

Evoryder

iTrader: (55)

so you replaced your cam angle sensor and crank position sensor. Those two are main culprits. If the crank sensor is dead it will not let your car crank at all.