phemes

iTrader: (3)

This what the factory service manual says about timing belt tension but it doesn't quite make sense to me. If the auto-tensioner should extend 0.15" when the pin is pulled how can it have moved freely before ? Comments please......

"Check that the wire (inserted in the auto-tensioner when it was installed) can be moved freely. If the wire can be pulled freely, the belt tensioner is adjusted properly. Remove the wire. Check that the auto-tensioner rod extends by the specified amount.

Standard value: 3.8 - 4.5 mm (0.15 - 0.18 inch)"

xceler8rob

iTrader: (41)

I can do mine with my eyes closed now! After you rotate the assembly 2 full rotations, and let it settle, it should move freely just like it did when you put it in the first time. The pin should move in and out just fine.

miragevo

iTrader: (21)

There is a tool with 2 pins that gets inserted into the tensioner pully. Next, you turn the tool which basically turns the pully and applies pressure to tension the belt. Make sure you tension the belt just enough to where the pin now moves freely. Tighten the adjustable pully to spec. Now rotate the crank 2 times to ensure that you put tension on the entire belt as opposed to a small section of the belt. If the pin moves freely then you're done..pull out the pin. If the pin is under pressure, then you either under tightened or overtightened the belt. Retry until the pin can be removed freely after you rotate the crank at least 2 times.

phemes

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, sounds like I had done it correctly then.

Xenogenic

iTrader: (-1)

be careful about over tightening. I actually had the tensioner set up too tight and the way the pulley actuates on the pivots, it will rub a line in the belt eventually causing it to snap. not fun.

phemes

iTrader: (3)

Thanks but as I understand it if you over-tighten the belt then the pin will be tight ? So if the pin slides in and out it is neither too tight or two loose ?

sunrichmond

iTrader: (5)

you guys talking about the grenade pin that's goes into the auto tensioner right? the hole from the outside and the hole all the way through rod should move freely right?when its done correctly

barneyb

Years ago, Mitsubishi's service manual only listed one way of adjusting the tensioner - the method where you used a 1/4 inch torque wrench on the tensioner pulley and adjusted the tension until you got the correct protrusion of the tensioner plunger.

Over time people invented other and easier ways of adjusting the tension. Well, if you don't think Mitsubishi follows what we are up to on the internet please observe that all these new methods are in the service manual. The trouble is, they are all tossed in there together. Something that must seem confusing to anyone doing this the first time.

phemes

iTrader: (3)

So it is the .15-.18 protrusion that is all important ?

barneyb

Well, if you choose to go that route, it will give you the correct tension. The trouble is, it is hard to measure accurately. People use a couple of drill bits that are as near as possible to those dimensions to use as gages. If the bigger fits the belt is too loose. If the smaller does not fit the belt is too tight. Also, this measurement needs to be taken after the car has been sitting for awhile. The tensioner has thick oil inside and needs time to adjust.

Getting the tension adjusted so that the grenade pin is loose in the housing and plunger does the same thing and no measurements required. This also after the tensioner has had time to adjust.

While doing these adjustments, the belt has a tendency to jump a tooth at the crank sprocket. You should have the belt marked there so you know if this occurs.

sunrichmond

iTrader: (5)

man am gone have to get this straight next week, pulling my motor out for a rebuild

sunrichmond

iTrader: (5)

am using aftermarket waterpump and tensioner