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I just ordered a 2.1l oil question?

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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #16  
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From: milwaukee, wi
the day i worry more about the turbo than the motor is the day i sell my evo and take the bus.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:13 PM
  #17  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by Fast_Freddie
How long should you actually wait to switch to synthetic after break in?
i waited 20 miles on my first buschur 2.3 and then switched to amsoil premium full synthetic and i ended up with 140 psi across, where as this time i waited until around 500 miles and now i have 150 across...... it pays to break it in properly. this one i started with vr1 non synthetic for 300 miles and now it has brad penn in it since its still partial synthetic and wont jeopardize ring seal.

everyones different but i followed http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm and used non synthetic vr1 for 500 miles and new motor has 10-15psi more compression then my first 2.3

i didnt magically get more compression for nothing. break in is crucial. you must rev the motor to 6500-7k and let off in gear , dont shift.. it will break the motor in properly. do that a dozen times, then do the same thing to 4500-5k. dyno break ins different but im just going by doing it on the road.

also i used **** oil for the first time breaking it in this time around and drained it in 15 miles and it still managed to burn up my fp blacks thrust bearings so be very cautious to what oil you use if you have the steel on steel thrust bearing fp black/red.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:16 PM
  #18  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by evodan2004
maybe you should use peanut butter in your motor then.




i run AMSoil 15W50 full SYN
i drained it in 10-15 miles jackass. after reading the back of autozone oil i wont even put in my lawn mower now. the back of it reads "its not for engines built past 1927 because it contains no detergents or additives"

when i read that i was shocked.. and ya it was pure black in only 10-15 miles of driving.. it shouldnt even be allowed to be sold. same goes for advanced auto oil.. absolute garbage as well.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:18 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by n2oiroc
the day i worry more about the turbo than the motor is the day i sell my evo and take the bus.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:22 PM
  #20  
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From: New Jersey
Originally Posted by tscompusa
i drained it in 10-15 miles jackass. after reading the back of autozone oil i wont even put in my lawn mower now. the back of it reads "its not for engines built past 1927 because it contains no detergents or additives"

when i read that i was shocked.. and ya it was pure black in only 10-15 miles of driving.. it shouldnt even be allowed to be sold. same goes for advanced auto oil.. absolute garbage as well.
im not the jackass if your thinking the motor don't give a crap about what oil is in it and its based off of what the turbo likes..............................

i agree about a brake in oil. i ran a 10w40 non syn for like 100 miles. then went to 15w50 and have had good results with my motor so far.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:25 PM
  #21  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by evodan2004
im not the jackass if your thinking the motor don't give a crap about what oil is in it and its based off of what the turbo likes..............................

i agree about a brake in oil. i ran a 10w40 non syn for like 100 miles. then went to 15w50 and have had good results with my motor so far.
did you read what i said tho? i changed it in literally 10-15 miles. if an oil can break down that fast it shouldnt even be allowed to be sold at all.

i know the motor cares, but it sure as hell isnt gonna do much when you're draining it in 10-15 miles. i run amsoil 20w50 premium synthetic and brad penn 20w50 normally.

if you think i run autozone oil 24/7 then you're out of your mind. and i was dumb for even putting the **** in there to begin with so you dont have to remind me.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:27 PM
  #22  
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From: South Florida
I dont get it.. 1st you say the engine will take ANY OIL that the motor doesnt give a sh*t..

Originally Posted by tscompusa
you have to use what the turbo wants pretty much, the motor doesn't give a ****.

then you say you wouldnt use sh*t oil in your lawnmower.. Im confused..

Originally Posted by tscompusa
i drained it in 10-15 miles jackass. after reading the back of autozone oil i wont even put in my lawn mower now. the back of it reads "its not for engines built past 1927 because it contains no detergents or additives"

when i read that i was shocked.. and ya it was pure black in only 10-15 miles of driving.. it shouldnt even be allowed to be sold. same goes for advanced auto oil.. absolute garbage as well.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:28 PM
  #23  
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From: South Florida
Originally Posted by tscompusa
did you read what i said tho? i changed it in literally 10-15 miles. if an oil can break down that fast it shouldnt even be allowed to be sold at all.

i know the motor cares, but it sure as hell isnt gonna do much when you're draining it in 10-15 miles. i run amsoil 20w50 premium synthetic and brad penn 20w50 normally.

if you think i run autozone oil 24/7 then you're out of your mind. and i was dumb for even putting the **** in there to begin with so you dont have to remind me.
The color of the oil doesnt dictate whether or not it has broken down.. I have dumped 15.00/qt Motul in my bikes and check the site glass and its BLACK just idling after filling it and checking the level..
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:29 PM
  #24  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by AWD Motorsports
you're thumbing this up yet you do realize there are GOOD oils that are perfectly fine for a 4g63 yet the FP red and black will die on.. do you understand this?

Therefore my statement does make sense.. you do have to work around what the turbo likes and wants unless you want to remove the turbo every 50 miles.

that is why i said what i said.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:31 PM
  #25  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by AWD Motorsports
The color of the oil doesnt dictate whether or not it has broken down.. I have dumped 15.00/qt Motul in my bikes and check the site glass and its BLACK just idling after filling it and checking the level..
100% black? like tar?
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:33 PM
  #26  
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From: South Florida
Originally Posted by tscompusa
you're thumbing this up yet you do realize there are GOOD oils that are perfectly fine for a 4g63 yet the FP red and black will die on.. do you understand this?

Therefore my statement does make sense.. you do have to work around what the turbo likes and wants unless you want to remove the turbo every 50 miles.

that is why i said what i said.
That is 100% correct.. The day i worry about my turbo over my engine is the day ill catch the bus as well.. So YES i understand this..

Mike
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:35 PM
  #27  
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Brad pen for break-in(first 1000 miles or more) and then AMSoil 20w-50 synthetic premium protection oil.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:38 PM
  #28  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by AWD Motorsports
That is 100% correct.. The day i worry about my turbo over my engine is the day ill catch the bus as well.. So YES i understand this..

Mike

so you're saying you wouldn't trust any oil that will jeopardize the red/black period in a engine right? if the turbo cant handle it then it shouldnt be used right? if so i agree..

honestly i normally would have never used autozone or cheap oil, but my friend online told me to since i was gonna drain it so quick.. so its my fault for using the garbage oil and i definitely felt the consequences of it.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:44 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
so you're saying you wouldn't trust any oil that will jeopardize the red/black period in a engine right? if the turbo cant handle it then it shouldnt be used right? if so i agree..

honestly i normally would have never used autozone or cheap oil, but my friend online told me to since i was gonna drain it so quick.. so its my fault for using the garbage oil and i definitely felt the consequences of it.
What i am saying is that all the approved oils for the FP lineup are oils we use and suggest anyway.. If they werent i would use what I use in our engines regardless and deal with the consequences..

Mike
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 07:45 PM
  #30  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by project_skyline
Brad pen for break-in(first 1000 miles or more) and then AMSoil 20w-50 synthetic premium protection oil.
blackstone reports of brad penn show its an extremely good oil and shouldn't be downgraded to just a break in oil.

this stuff has some of the best rated tests Ive researched on oils, and ive looked at around 20 different oil reports from blackstone

its the old Kendell oil, which is as good as Amsoil any day of the week.
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