Just installed a bigger FMIC and IC Pipes and now the car is slower :(
Something isn't right. You said your car had 365whp prior to the installation, then after install, you were neck in neck with a car that was pushing 290whp, and you were running really rich? What other mods does your car have?
TBH, you should get a retune after something as significant as a fmic with all related piping, but if you were already at 365, which I'm skeptical of, your car would already have been tuned with whatever you had, and the IC and related pipes would have had a relatively minor effect on any given load cell in your timing/fueling maps vs a car that was untuned.
Also, correctly installed and leak free, the ETS core would probably have pushed your boost up a pound or 2, and leaned out your fuel mixture a bit, not vice versa.
TBH, you should get a retune after something as significant as a fmic with all related piping, but if you were already at 365, which I'm skeptical of, your car would already have been tuned with whatever you had, and the IC and related pipes would have had a relatively minor effect on any given load cell in your timing/fueling maps vs a car that was untuned.
Also, correctly installed and leak free, the ETS core would probably have pushed your boost up a pound or 2, and leaned out your fuel mixture a bit, not vice versa.
After that I took the car for a ride and did a 3rd gear pull(like at the Dyno) and when the car was going at like 6,000 rpm it did like a stall/backfire and I released the pedal. When I bought the car it had 360whp... Then I when I switched from 6 spd to 5 spd the car went down to 10.0 AFR and the first run at the dyno was at 330whp... Then after some tuning it got to 365whp and 11.4-.6 afr. I don't have a boost gauge(I already bought it, was going to install it with the cams, red, etc.) so I don't know exactly how did it change. I'm getting a bit confused, but I guess I'll take it to the shop next week, ask them if they find anything wrong, get the other mods installed and re-tune.
You MUST have a boost leak.
How did you test for leaks ? What psi did you test to ?
Adding a better FMIC will lower intake temperature and thus slightly lower your boost (depending on how you are controlling boost).
How did you test for leaks ? What psi did you test to ?
Adding a better FMIC will lower intake temperature and thus slightly lower your boost (depending on how you are controlling boost).
Not really necessary on a MAF equipped car. On a SD car you would need a retune for sure. A retune can definately yeild more gains but it should be as good or better with the same tune.
When doing your boost leak test are you listening for leaks? I like to spray soapy water on all the joints to see if any of them bubble up as well. Sometimes you wont hear the leaks.
You should have installed the boost gauge BEFORE swapping intercoolers. This would have permitted a before and after boost level comparison. Do you know at what PSI the 365 HP was achieved with? How much boost that is.
Ask ETS how many PSI drop in boost you could normally expect when going from a stock IC to their 3.5" unit and then turn the boost up to compensate. I know, I know......you have no MBC, or boost gauge yet.
Ask ETS how many PSI drop in boost you could normally expect when going from a stock IC to their 3.5" unit and then turn the boost up to compensate. I know, I know......you have no MBC, or boost gauge yet.
You should have installed the boost gauge BEFORE swapping intercoolers. This would have permitted a before and after boost level comparison. Do you know at what PSI the 365 HP was achieved with? How much boost that is.
Ask ETS how many PSI drop in boost you could normally expect when going from a stock IC to their 3.5" unit and then turn the boost up to compensate. I know, I know......you have no MBC, or boost gauge yet.
Ask ETS how many PSI drop in boost you could normally expect when going from a stock IC to their 3.5" unit and then turn the boost up to compensate. I know, I know......you have no MBC, or boost gauge yet.
I'm sorry, but I just started modding the car and I'm learning as I go.
a bigger fmic will change the afr. you need to resweep the fuel maps.. pm me i can give you a deal if you just need fuel modified. when i switched from a 3.5" to a 3.8-4" core my afr was all over the place. turbo spooled slower, and target afr was out of wack.. can be fixed easy if you have a wideband. 
a bigger fmic will change the afr. you need to resweep the fuel maps.. pm me i can give you a deal if you just need fuel modified. when i switched from a 3.5" to a 3.8-4" core my afr was all over the place. turbo spooled slower, and target afr was out of wack.. can be fixed easy if you have a wideband.
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: U.K
Agreed it sounds as if the o.p. has a boost leak, or a boost control issue. Possibly something unrelated got disturbed during the i/c swap? Also agree that checking the map is standard practice after any mod.
So, after a couple of busy days I decided it was time to re-install the front bumper. After I was finished I decided to take a drive and see if I could hear a boost leak. And as fate would have it I started hearing the NASTY hissing comming from the engine bay in the drivers side... Oh, well... Boost leak it is... now to find that bastard!
So, after a couple of busy days I decided it was time to re-install the front bumper. After I was finished I decided to take a drive and see if I could hear a boost leak. And as fate would have it I started hearing the NASTY hissing comming from the engine bay in the drivers side... Oh, well... Boost leak it is... now to find that bastard!
So you never really did a proper boost leak test? Im not trying to be an *** but driving your car to listen for a leak is supposed to to exactly what? IF by chance you happen to hear a leak large enough that still wont get you stranded on the side of the road how are you supposed to know where its at?
Get a boost leak tester, remove your intake, attach tester to turbo inlet, pressurize and listen closely, then repair those.