Yes we have about 13 deegres of ignition at maximum brake torque.
I have considered to plug in my knock control function in my aem ems.
An other option is to buy knock link or some other knock detection.
Yes we have at least 4 years of tuning experience.
This is the same ignition map that my friend runs with, and it works more than fine for him.

Don't you think the dwell time is the problem?

 

sorry i'm not sure how to read that dwell time on that ECU, how many Milliseconds is it?

Link do sell a very good knockblock now, my tuner uses it on every car he tunes
http://www.linkecu.com/products/Tuni.../g4-knockblock

13 degrees of timing at maximum torque sounds like alot
dont forget that MBT is a set amount of timing to get maximum torque for any given RPM.

How do you think ignition dwell time can cause detonation? Unless the coils reach a certain point and self spark (like LS2/LS7 coils at approx 7ms dwell).

 

I don't know how to read the millisecs either

What is MBT?

That knock from link looks interesting =)

I think if the dwell is way to high maybe the sparkplugs gets to much power and gets way to warm and that's why my valve seats are going bad first and then the plugs, pistons and so on.

Yeah 13 degrees is much, otherwise i just change it back to 9degrees like i always have run before.

 

at what rpm is the 13* timing on? based on experience you cant get too much timing on peak torque with e85 but you can quickly ramp up the rpm afterwards.

just like as suggested det cans would be beneficial in tuning the car. you can always make your own det can. here is an example. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0353

if you do not have access to a dyno then you could use a dyno software as long as you do the run on the same stretch of road.

 

13 degrees is at peak torque (with our turbos it is around 6000-6500rpm)
I've tried going +/- 3 degrees timing in the dyno and the change in torque was very small.

We ramp (or I - in my car) ramp the timing up to 17 degrees at 8800rpm

 

if there is very little change in torque, it is always better to use less timing.
this will help your plugs stay in one piece too

 

You might try contacting EnglishRacing. they have a lot of experience w e85. and are very knowledgeable about how much timing can be ran. They can probably look at the tune if you give them a log along with the build hardware, fuel and ignition etc I would think that Dave Buschur at Buschur Racing could do the same.

2.5 -3 bar is a lot of boost IIRC 35-40 psi of boost. On 93 octane I would think 2-3 degrees at maximum torque ( say 5000 rpm ) would be too much, maybe not sure on e85 but 13 degrees on E85 sounds like past maximum. From your description, Valves sound like they are leaking due to burnt lands. The fact you are burning off electrodes on the spark plugs too indicates maybe way too high cylinder temps or massive detonation. Are you loggin EGT's ?? Are they in check ?? Are you sure about the fuel quality of the e85 ?? Can it be that the fuel is more like E100, you might be running too lean then ?? Are you running out of fuel up top ??? Are the injectors running static at high rpm so no more flow is possible ??? Do you have a dual pump system to ensure you are not running out of fuel at high rpms since E85 requires much more fuel and much larger injectors ???

IIRC you tune e85 until the increase in power or torque drops off so for example going from 6 degrees timing to 8 degrees at peak torque gives 10 whp increase ( five whp per degree of ignition increase ) but going from 8 to 10 degrees only gives 2 whp ( 1 whp per degree ) so you back off to at most 7 degrees less 1 degree for safety if you desire/ need that.

Something like that.

Kiggly HLA pressure restrictor works at high lift and rpm to reduce lifter pump up. limits the pressure to 15- 20 psi at the lifters IIRC. but if Kiggly says that is not the issue then you should be looking at the tune, fuel and EGT's

My 02 cents

Regards,

 

Well as i said my friend has been running this ignition map on his car for the past 2 years without problems and he runs 3bar of boost.

I had this failure when i started my engine up for the first after my engine blow, and at that moment i had stock cams, stock turbo with 0.5bar boost and the same thing happend with my valve seats.
There is more than enough fuel with that turbo i had (precision hp6262) i have stock injectors and runs them on under pressure, and bosch 1680 as secondaries and starts to flow at 0.4bar then all injectors works together 510cc + 1680 = 2190 cc so it should be a problem.
The injectors runs as sequential and are flow matched so they works fine.
I have an8 fuel line and an6 return line.
Fuelpump aeromotive eliminator.

No i'm not logging Egt, i have a device so i can do it, but i didn't get it to work properly.

The lifter pump up failure is not anymore a problem for me what i can tell.

I'll try to get a chat with dave and see if he has any ideas!

thank's

 

I've ran my first engine for 18 000 kilometers = 11 184.6815 miles with that timing (of course not every km at full throttle, but uncountable dragrace passes and streetracing)
Street boost was 2.4bar moslty and dragboost 2.75bar. After that i broke a eagle rod (all rods were bent when I disassembled the engine). And shot a few holes in the block.

I now use Manley I-beams with Wiseco HD pistons and same timing curve.

I've never burnt a sparkplug, had some small marks of detention in the old pistons but that was from a failed fuelpump earlier (2.5bar boost AFR 15 )

 

sounds like your still chasing this?

Tuning won't make a valve not seal. Heat will warp the valve, but I don't think your making enough power to do that. You said the 45 was lapped, but that is not always a good indicator of what's going on. And .006 is just a absolutely big number to see at the valve opening. If the lifters were pumped I think you would see more then that and i would assume it would be all 16 pumped up.

But let me guess this straight, your saying the valve is open .006 when the cam is on the base circle? And is it .000 when the cam is out or it's the same?

 

Haven't checked the valve opening when installed actually.
I will look into it as soon as i get back the head, he is not the quickest guy who is fixing my cyl head. 1 month and 12 days now =)