Issues After 2nd 60k Service
Issues After 2nd 60k Service
OK, I am doing my 2nd 60K service.
I am having some weird Issues after my 60k service. I had the T-Belt Accessory belt, Balance Shaft Belt, Hydraulic Tension Pump,Water Pump both Belt Tensioners replaced basically the whole left side lol and this was my "" 2nd"" 60k got screwed over by DTM who was suppose to have done it at 55k miles but seems money was better in the pocket. OK now to the issues.
Before 60k.
Now before the 60k I had issue with Boost Creep replaced the EPM Dump with a MAP o2 Housing and added a restrictor into the exhaust to help add a little Back presure to see if it would cure the Boost Creep it did not so the MAP Housing went on while the restrictor is still there. During the Install of the MAP o2 Housing I broke the Nipple on the FP 18psi WGA and had to put the stock 14.7 back on. I was creeping in before from 23psi to 30 psi and 26psi to 30 psi now set at 26 I get a spike of 23.4-23.6 holding 19-21psi til red line.
After 2nd 60k.
When I got the car back there is a loud drone while driveing and when you get on it. It kinda goes away but not much. I have checked the exhaust and no leaks from what I can see the shop said they did not remove the exhaust system at all or loosen it up. I have recently replaced the o2 Housing from which use to be a EPM o2 Dump now its the MAP SS Merged Housing which has no center divider in it. When you rev the car it has a metal ratteling sound like something is lose but I can't find anything. the oil dip stick kept popping out so I had to use a Throttle body Spring to hold it down lol.
Issue 1. Can't boost past 21 psi
Issue 2. If you free rev it sounds like lose metal/rattling
Issue 3 It has a loud Drone sound from the exhaust that was not there before
Issue 4 Oil Dip Stick Keeps popping out lol "Used a Throttle Body Spring to hold it down"
Oh a note the shop said it could be the Motor Mount might have been installed and offset the Exhaust and the motor mount might be off 2mm compared to before. This they said could cause the Donut gasket maybe not to seat properly and give it a day or two to see if it works its self out. If this sounds right let me know. i greatly appriciate any help that can be givin.
I am having some weird Issues after my 60k service. I had the T-Belt Accessory belt, Balance Shaft Belt, Hydraulic Tension Pump,Water Pump both Belt Tensioners replaced basically the whole left side lol and this was my "" 2nd"" 60k got screwed over by DTM who was suppose to have done it at 55k miles but seems money was better in the pocket. OK now to the issues.
Before 60k.
Now before the 60k I had issue with Boost Creep replaced the EPM Dump with a MAP o2 Housing and added a restrictor into the exhaust to help add a little Back presure to see if it would cure the Boost Creep it did not so the MAP Housing went on while the restrictor is still there. During the Install of the MAP o2 Housing I broke the Nipple on the FP 18psi WGA and had to put the stock 14.7 back on. I was creeping in before from 23psi to 30 psi and 26psi to 30 psi now set at 26 I get a spike of 23.4-23.6 holding 19-21psi til red line.
After 2nd 60k.
When I got the car back there is a loud drone while driveing and when you get on it. It kinda goes away but not much. I have checked the exhaust and no leaks from what I can see the shop said they did not remove the exhaust system at all or loosen it up. I have recently replaced the o2 Housing from which use to be a EPM o2 Dump now its the MAP SS Merged Housing which has no center divider in it. When you rev the car it has a metal ratteling sound like something is lose but I can't find anything. the oil dip stick kept popping out so I had to use a Throttle body Spring to hold it down lol.
Issue 1. Can't boost past 21 psi
Issue 2. If you free rev it sounds like lose metal/rattling
Issue 3 It has a loud Drone sound from the exhaust that was not there before
Issue 4 Oil Dip Stick Keeps popping out lol "Used a Throttle Body Spring to hold it down"
Oh a note the shop said it could be the Motor Mount might have been installed and offset the Exhaust and the motor mount might be off 2mm compared to before. This they said could cause the Donut gasket maybe not to seat properly and give it a day or two to see if it works its self out. If this sounds right let me know. i greatly appriciate any help that can be givin.
Last edited by BEISSEN; Feb 2, 2011 at 10:27 PM.
Ok I am having some weird Issues after my 60k service. I had the T-Belt Accessory belt, Balance SHaft Belt, Hydrolic Tension Pump,Water Pump both Belt Tensioners replaced basicly the whole left side lol and this was my "" 2nd"" 60k got screwed over by DTM who was suppose to have done it at 55k miles but seems money was better in the pocket. Ok now to the issues
Issue 1. If you free rev it sounds like lose metal/rattaling
Issue 2. It has a loud Drone sound from the exhaust that was not there before
Issue 3. Oil Dip Stick Keeps poping out lol "Used a Throttle Body Spring to hold it down"
I have checked the exhaust and no leaks from what I can see they said they did not remove the exhaust system at all or losen it up. I have recently replaced the o2 Housing from which use to be a EPM o2 Dump now its the MAP SS Merged Housing which has no center divider in it. I cant boost past 23.6 but I also broke the 18 psi WGA and I am running a stock IX WGA so I assume its that. THe boost spikes to 23.6 but holts like 19-21psi to redline and its set to 26 psi. I really appriciate any help of what I can look for as for the Exhaust Drone and the lose metal/ratteling sound. Oh I also have a 2.5 restrictor in the end of the DP which connects to the TP since I was creeping before could that cause me not to boost as well?
Oh a note the shop said it could be the Motor Mount might have been installed and ofset the Exhaust and the motor mount might be off 2mm compaired to before. This they said could cause the Donut gasket maybe not to seat properly and give it a day or two to see if it works its self out. If this sounds right let me know.
Issue 1. If you free rev it sounds like lose metal/rattaling
Issue 2. It has a loud Drone sound from the exhaust that was not there before
Issue 3. Oil Dip Stick Keeps poping out lol "Used a Throttle Body Spring to hold it down"
I have checked the exhaust and no leaks from what I can see they said they did not remove the exhaust system at all or losen it up. I have recently replaced the o2 Housing from which use to be a EPM o2 Dump now its the MAP SS Merged Housing which has no center divider in it. I cant boost past 23.6 but I also broke the 18 psi WGA and I am running a stock IX WGA so I assume its that. THe boost spikes to 23.6 but holts like 19-21psi to redline and its set to 26 psi. I really appriciate any help of what I can look for as for the Exhaust Drone and the lose metal/ratteling sound. Oh I also have a 2.5 restrictor in the end of the DP which connects to the TP since I was creeping before could that cause me not to boost as well?
Oh a note the shop said it could be the Motor Mount might have been installed and ofset the Exhaust and the motor mount might be off 2mm compaired to before. This they said could cause the Donut gasket maybe not to seat properly and give it a day or two to see if it works its self out. If this sounds right let me know.
Very confusing are you asking for help or complaining??
if you dont mind me asking... how much did you pay for each service? im trying to compare if i got ripped off on my 60k. if you want to PM me it thats cool i understand if you dont want to post prices on here
Ptuining without fluid change=1157.00
Last edited by BEISSEN; Feb 2, 2011 at 10:40 PM.
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It sounds to me, by the description of the metallic rattling sounds when reving, as if the balanced shaft is 180 degrees out. This can happen easier than one thinks as position of the shaft when properly aligned puts a top counterweight to the pulley.
Now can this have any adverse effects on performance or cause a issue with the car? Is it hard to re adjust? Also could that also cause a drone with the exhaust or is that just likely due to the motor mount being installed without the exhaust being taken apart and throwing it off balance some?
Last edited by BEISSEN; Feb 3, 2011 at 12:31 AM.
If the "drone" is around 2800-3800 rpm with no load, then its possible that the Balancershaft ( front ) is out of phase.
This vibration can also trigger the knock sensor on some cars, so timing is pulled like crazy, resulting in loss of power.
Also the tensioner pulley could be preloaded in the false direction ( CW ) so the pulley rubbing onto the water Pump. Makes a rubbing metal sound when free reving (but still works)
But as always, its hard to tell if they did something wrong, because nobody was on site during install.
If i had access to the car, it would take 30 mins to tell if its right or wrong.
If they often work on Evos (more then changing exhausts ) they should know how its done right.
This vibration can also trigger the knock sensor on some cars, so timing is pulled like crazy, resulting in loss of power.
Also the tensioner pulley could be preloaded in the false direction ( CW ) so the pulley rubbing onto the water Pump. Makes a rubbing metal sound when free reving (but still works)
But as always, its hard to tell if they did something wrong, because nobody was on site during install.
If i had access to the car, it would take 30 mins to tell if its right or wrong.
If they often work on Evos (more then changing exhausts ) they should know how its done right.
If the "drone" is around 2800-3800 rpm with no load, then its possible that the Balancershaft ( front ) is out of phase.
This vibration can also trigger the knock sensor on some cars, so timing is pulled like crazy, resulting in loss of power.
Also the tensioner pulley could be preloaded in the false direction ( CW ) so the pulley rubbing onto the water Pump. Makes a rubbing metal sound when free reving (but still works)
But as always, its hard to tell if they did something wrong, because nobody was on site during install.
If i had access to the car, it would take 30 mins to tell if its right or wrong.
If they often work on Evos (more then changing exhausts ) they should know how its done right.
This vibration can also trigger the knock sensor on some cars, so timing is pulled like crazy, resulting in loss of power.
Also the tensioner pulley could be preloaded in the false direction ( CW ) so the pulley rubbing onto the water Pump. Makes a rubbing metal sound when free reving (but still works)
But as always, its hard to tell if they did something wrong, because nobody was on site during install.
If i had access to the car, it would take 30 mins to tell if its right or wrong.
If they often work on Evos (more then changing exhausts ) they should know how its done right.
If you still have your balance shaft then your oil pump is out of phase. When the oil pump pulley is set it should fall a certain direction (I forgot which way).
I would personally not drive the car like this. There are a lot of harsh vibrations who knows if that could cause any damage or shorten the life of the oil pump.
I would personally not drive the car like this. There are a lot of harsh vibrations who knows if that could cause any damage or shorten the life of the oil pump.
If you still have your balance shaft then your oil pump is out of phase. When the oil pump pulley is set it should fall a certain direction (I forgot which way).
I would personally not drive the car like this. There are a lot of harsh vibrations who knows if that could cause any damage or shorten the life of the oil pump.
I would personally not drive the car like this. There are a lot of harsh vibrations who knows if that could cause any damage or shorten the life of the oil pump.
ya binh you're right. if you set the oil pump sprocket to 11 o clock it will fall counterclockwise towards 9 o clock and that is how you can tell if its in phase. this works on older engines, but i noticed i couldnt do it on my evo.. it was to stiff to really fall by itself.
the only other way to check is put a screw driver in the inspection hole located under your exhaust manifold and follow the manual to see if its right or wrong.
driving car with the balance shafts out of phase wont hurt anything, but of course the engine will be out of balance and rattle and shake at certain rpm areas.
Also if your balance shaft belt is overly tensioned it can also hurt performance on the vehicle as well and cause it to prematurely fail early.
the only other way to check is put a screw driver in the inspection hole located under your exhaust manifold and follow the manual to see if its right or wrong.
driving car with the balance shafts out of phase wont hurt anything, but of course the engine will be out of balance and rattle and shake at certain rpm areas.
Also if your balance shaft belt is overly tensioned it can also hurt performance on the vehicle as well and cause it to prematurely fail early.






