I currently have coolant pouring out of the bottom of the water pump from a passage underneath the main shaft, I'm assuming this is coolant that is coming out of the weep hole and this shows that the internal seals are shot? This water pump was replaced mid-September of 2010, is there anything that could make it fail after only 5 months this way?

I apologize for poor picture quality, but I'm new to lying on my back holding a flashlight and taking pictures.

 

Same thing happened to me. 6 months after installing my water pump failed as well with a leak around the shaft. You just got a bad part. My replacement from that has lasted more than 2 years now.

 

Thanks, now are there any tricks to removing the pump? I'm down to actually unbolting it, and I'm thinking that I have to remove the timing tensioner along with possibly the actual pulley to gain access to one of the bolts holding the pump in place by referencing this picture -

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/S4300258.jpg

Did you have any troubles making sure the new O-ring that sits on the water pipe went in smoothly into the new pump housing?

 

Your assumptions seem right. I always had my belt off when removing the pump. If I remember correctly the O-ring just sits on the pipe end and you slide the water pump end over it. The O-ring should sit between two raised lips on the pipe.

 

2 things could be wrong. Water pump bad, coolant coming-out of weep hole. Or gasket blew out. Why that could happen is another story.

 

I use dish detergent as lubricant on the O-ring so it isn't displaced as the pump is slid onto the pipe. I use Ultragrey on the gasket - both sides. Other than that, once everything is out of the way, it is a bolt on.

 

Was this a new Mitsu pump or an OEM replacement from a parts store?

 

I believe the old one was a Mitsu part sourced from Slowboy Racing, and the new one is a new OEM replacement from Duralast. I would have sourced another Mitsu one directly but the nearest dealership is 80 miles away.

I'm going to try the dish detergent trick as pulling the old water pump off the water pump was a PITA and I don't have the room to argue with it.

I took water and poured it into the pump housing while it is off, started to drip out the weep so that is a 100% confirmation.

 

that 80 mile trip doesn't sound that far now does it? you could have gotton one from online too

 

It sounds far when you would be walking it ;-) I could have sourced one online but the turnaround time was unacceptable.

I have it all assembled and running, but I am noticing the serpentine belt is squeaking when cold but once it warms up it does away. Is there an issue with the tensioner or is than normal for cold weather climates?

 

Duralast water pump *shudder*. This is too big and important of a job to use crap parts. Continental makes a really nice kit that's complete and uses OE parts. It includes the pump and all timing components. Please make sure when you're doing the job that all components associated with the belt are replaced. If any one of them fails because it wasn't replaced, it can take out your new timing belt. Then you're rebuilding the head at the very least. Good luck!

Tom

 

Hey new to the sight and just bought my first evo, the person whom I bought it from had an hks bov and stock ecu, I'm pretty sure they are supposed to reciculate but not positive, could this allow my rpm's to drop and be the reason for my oil light flicker? let me know thanks.

 

What you need to do is start a new post, not add to one that is about water pumps.

 

hahah whoops thanks just realized
my bad