Buschur Fabricated Intake Manifold vs Driven Innovation Intake Manifold
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Buschur Fabricated Intake Manifold vs Driven Innovation Intake Manifold
This thread is for cold hard facts about the Buschur Fabricated Intake Manifold vs Driven Innovation Intake Manifold.
Looking for Dyno charts, pictures during fabrication, dimensions of plenums, runner information, materials used, etc. Want to see the differences between the two manifolds, since they seem to offer the most top end power without losing too much low/mid range power and torque.
Would like to see 2.0 vs 2.0 back to back intake manifold testing or 2.3 vs 2.3... not 2.0 BR intake manifold vs 2.4 DI intake manifold(just some examples)
Side note, if you have Dyno charts of BR's fabricated intake manifold vs AMS f1, Magnus v5, Map Rev3 ported OEM intake, BR ported OEM intake,etc... please post the LINK
Looking for Dyno charts, pictures during fabrication, dimensions of plenums, runner information, materials used, etc. Want to see the differences between the two manifolds, since they seem to offer the most top end power without losing too much low/mid range power and torque.
Would like to see 2.0 vs 2.0 back to back intake manifold testing or 2.3 vs 2.3... not 2.0 BR intake manifold vs 2.4 DI intake manifold(just some examples)
Side note, if you have Dyno charts of BR's fabricated intake manifold vs AMS f1, Magnus v5, Map Rev3 ported OEM intake, BR ported OEM intake,etc... please post the LINK
Last edited by LGshow19; Feb 18, 2011 at 10:16 AM.
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i like where you are going with this but truthfully other than learning specifications you wont get accurate information from multiple cars with 100 diferent parts...only way to know for sure would be to test the manifolds on the same car with the same tune
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There are plenty of tests out there. Also plenty of tests of DI manifold against Magnus and many others...
As it goes to DI and BR manifolds both follow the same principles. Seems that both work well and show the best gains through out.
As it goes to DI and BR manifolds both follow the same principles. Seems that both work well and show the best gains through out.
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Below is a cut/paste job from a large thread over on High Boost Forums about all the intake manifold testing. This is what I felt was most relevant to this thread.
The intake manifolds have taken a few subtle changes since the pictures below were taken. Shearer Fabrications is now assembling/welding our intake manifolds. The head flange is no machined precisely to fit the extruded runners we use and to blend to the head, all CNC'd.
Some other side notes before you guys get to the cut/paste information below. IF you are using our catch can you can not use it with this intake manifold, it won't fit UNLESS you do not have ABS.
Here's the information from our forum:
During the intake manifold testing we built a few intake manifolds as I felt I was getting a grip on what the car actually wanted and what would work. The very first intake was a winner in the power producing department but a mis-calculation on my part left me with an extremely tight fitment to the firewall. I was happy as hell with the power curve but knew we could do even better.
We built a few that ended up scrapped, some of those parts are here on display in our showroom.
Then we built what was to be our final attempt and also proved to produce the largest average power from 3,000-9,000 rpm of any intake we ever tested.
The stock intake manifold performs the best from idle to 5500 rpm, end of statement, nobody has produced more power than the stock intake in that area.
So when producing an intake that is going to make big power up top I wanted to concentrate on also building one with the LEAST LOSSES down low. I am not building a drag only car and neither are most of you. I wanted an intake that would make great numbers across the entire rpm band of the engine and that's what we ended up with.
Another requirement was to be able to use the stock throttle body and any available intercooler pipes, without cutting or modifying.
The intake we built sits in the stock location as far as the the throttle body is concerned. No changes to i/c pipes are required.
I do not want to go into specifics about plenum volume or runner length because that is the one mistake that I feel everyone is making in their intake manifolds. This is based on MY PERSONAL requirement of the best overall power from 3,000-9,000 rpm.
The BR Fabricated intake manifold has provisions for the dipstick to be bolted on and uses the stock or any aftermarket fuel rail. The throttle body flange is 65mm to mate up to modified stock throttle bodies. We do not use tapped holes or a block that you have to drill and tap for boost/vacuum fittings. We have billet aluminum bungs/nipples welded into the intake manifold. This makes it impossible for them to strip or leak. Just push your hoses onto the supplied/installed nipples. There is one located in the back of the plenum for the brake booster, two on the drivers side end under the throttle body for BOV and a MAP sensor or Boost control. On the passenger end there are two more nipples one for fuel pressure and boost or MAP sensor. I can't stand having the fittings in the back of the intake, they are impossible to get to. I can't stand the fittings on the top or front because it makes it look cluttered. The fittings on our intake have been placed where they need to be so they can be used with the shortest hose routing and look clean.
Here is a picture of the new intake manifold:
The intake manifolds have taken a few subtle changes since the pictures below were taken. Shearer Fabrications is now assembling/welding our intake manifolds. The head flange is no machined precisely to fit the extruded runners we use and to blend to the head, all CNC'd.
Some other side notes before you guys get to the cut/paste information below. IF you are using our catch can you can not use it with this intake manifold, it won't fit UNLESS you do not have ABS.
Here's the information from our forum:
During the intake manifold testing we built a few intake manifolds as I felt I was getting a grip on what the car actually wanted and what would work. The very first intake was a winner in the power producing department but a mis-calculation on my part left me with an extremely tight fitment to the firewall. I was happy as hell with the power curve but knew we could do even better.
We built a few that ended up scrapped, some of those parts are here on display in our showroom.
Then we built what was to be our final attempt and also proved to produce the largest average power from 3,000-9,000 rpm of any intake we ever tested.
The stock intake manifold performs the best from idle to 5500 rpm, end of statement, nobody has produced more power than the stock intake in that area.
So when producing an intake that is going to make big power up top I wanted to concentrate on also building one with the LEAST LOSSES down low. I am not building a drag only car and neither are most of you. I wanted an intake that would make great numbers across the entire rpm band of the engine and that's what we ended up with.
Another requirement was to be able to use the stock throttle body and any available intercooler pipes, without cutting or modifying.
The intake we built sits in the stock location as far as the the throttle body is concerned. No changes to i/c pipes are required.
I do not want to go into specifics about plenum volume or runner length because that is the one mistake that I feel everyone is making in their intake manifolds. This is based on MY PERSONAL requirement of the best overall power from 3,000-9,000 rpm.
The BR Fabricated intake manifold has provisions for the dipstick to be bolted on and uses the stock or any aftermarket fuel rail. The throttle body flange is 65mm to mate up to modified stock throttle bodies. We do not use tapped holes or a block that you have to drill and tap for boost/vacuum fittings. We have billet aluminum bungs/nipples welded into the intake manifold. This makes it impossible for them to strip or leak. Just push your hoses onto the supplied/installed nipples. There is one located in the back of the plenum for the brake booster, two on the drivers side end under the throttle body for BOV and a MAP sensor or Boost control. On the passenger end there are two more nipples one for fuel pressure and boost or MAP sensor. I can't stand having the fittings in the back of the intake, they are impossible to get to. I can't stand the fittings on the top or front because it makes it look cluttered. The fittings on our intake have been placed where they need to be so they can be used with the shortest hose routing and look clean.
Here is a picture of the new intake manifold:
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Thank you for the post... I was looking for it, but i got distracted by that 5.0 build you have.
Continuing, Dave... Do you have a Dyno sheet of your Intake mani vs DI intake mani(large plenum)? Your plenum only comes in one size correct?
Continuing, Dave... Do you have a Dyno sheet of your Intake mani vs DI intake mani(large plenum)? Your plenum only comes in one size correct?
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I do not have back to back tests of our intake VS the DI large plenum. There may be a dyno sheet of ours vs their small plenum. Our plenum comes in one size only but may change in the future. I'd like to make it even smaller than it is but at this point in time we are not able to form it any smaller.
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The point of making a smaller plenum is to have the OEM ported powerband from idle-5000rpm, but have a nice higher RPM gain?
So the Buschur Fabricated manifold is pretty much the "best" option from 3000-9000?
Would you say just on a 2.0 or even the 2.1-2.4?
So the Buschur Fabricated manifold is pretty much the "best" option from 3000-9000?
Would you say just on a 2.0 or even the 2.1-2.4?
Last edited by LGshow19; Feb 18, 2011 at 02:09 PM.