my product is by far the best !

ANY idiot can tune an Evo with a reflash

The only real issue I have with tuning is I like to run a richer 11.0 /1 a/f ratio which is hardly a secret - if any other tuners wanted to copy my methods they are hardly a secret

ALL I am trying to do is DEmystify the process and provide FAIR value and prices for the Evo community

I charge normally 225 for my through the mail reflash and this week its on sale for 199.99 shipped

These other companies that charge 4 and 500 for a through the mail reflash are really taking advantage of customers

 

In the event you ever updrage your mods - you can always come back for a retune - I offer special low prices

OR just add a emanage - SAFC or Exede and fine tune it - the reflash makes a great platform

2.7 secs they are talking about the boost delay calculations which are irrelevant as each and every reflash I do gets the max FE FE boost delay

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...s&pagenumber=8


Page 8, the post by Shiv.

Again, you confuse yourself and illustrate your level of understanding. The above quote is from a post you made today on this thread:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=53474

First off, let me explain the difference between HEXIDECIMAL and the normal DECIMAL based numbers most of us are used to dealing with. In hexidecimal, instead of counting in 0-9, one counts in 0-9, followed by the letters A through F. This means that there are 16 numbers to play with instead of the usual 10 we deal with in normal thought.

Also, as I hope you are aware of (but probably aren't judging by all your posts you've ever made on this subject), the EVO code is written in hexidecimal. That's why there are all those silly letters in there. This means that if you see the value "32" in a map, it stands for 50 (3x16+2), not 32.

Along that same line of thought, the raw value which represents Boost Delay, as you know, is "28". "28" translates to 40 (2X16+8), not 2.8, okay? Also, in Mitsubishi ECU-speak, the time units don't represent 1 seconds units, or even 1 milliseconds units. They represent 2.5ms units. So 40 x 2.5 = 100ms, or .1 second. But don't worry, you're only 2.7 seconds off

Ah.. I feel much better now. I used to cringe everytime you talked about ECU code on this forum, knowing darn well that you had no idea what you were talking about.

Cheers,
shiv



*** Your cars is off by 2.7 seconds because Al does not know 100% on how to use the computer..

 

I am NOT aware of ANY problems with our reflashes

ALL the cars that we custom tune come our perfect - period

Thats my point - when you buy a tuning solution - piggy back - through the mail you can have problems and issues

Let me tell you about all the nightmares I had with the Autronic - or hard work and learning to get the AEM to idle

The wonder of the Dyno Flash is you have ZERO problems

 

 

Ok....so my boost delay is supposedly 2.7 seconds off....what is your point?

Are you saying that my car is going to spool slower, have a big drop in boost, blow up.....what? What is the point of your arguement.

I am happy with the boost response of my car as is. Lag has been reduced, I hold boost well throughout the rev band all the way past redline, and I have timeslips to prove the effectiveness of my tune.

Explain what your point is besides the fact that you are trying to make Al look bad.

Ken

 

Interesting in theory but IRRELEVANT - from day one each and every reflash we have done gets FE FE in the boost delay area - - instead of the stock 00 28 - - it was a simple mistake when I made the post not to remember to convert to hexidecimal

Again - every single reflash we do gets FE FE in that area so its a no brainer and not something we need to revisit on a daily basis

To review - by increasing that value we delay the tapering of the stock boost. We merely increase the value

When we tune hexidecimal is not even an issue as all we are going is icreasing or decreasing the values - what they are does not matter

The only area where calculation comes into play is on the rev limits which are hexidecmial - but again they are now standard for us

 

With all the debate of how whether there are people that have problems with the dynoflash, it would be interesting to see exactly how many people have had problems after getting it done, because so far, I havent seen one negative post, and everyone I know that has gotten the reflash is happy with the results.

Ken

 

Nope, just saying "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR". I hope there is nothing else in there that you don't know about and your car does not blow up.

 

As I said above - your car liek all the rest has FE FE which is the greatest time delay for the boost taper that you can have - this "issue" is a tempist in a tea pot - a NON issue that Shiv and his cheerleaders have created to try and draw attention from the fact that my product makes the same power in a more safe manner at 1/2 the price

 

There are problems people just don't post them. Look at the people starting to have problems with Buschur's "The best, cheapest, fastest, and loudest" exhaust? Hell there were 2 just today. Give it time.

 

It made less power today Al, read the 1st post. Man you are unreal. lolrof

 

Right - so i guess a/f logs from dyno sheets, data logs of ign timing and knock activity whoulc be all thrown out the window and ignored and instead we should all make our tuning choices based upon retail price !

BTW - I have tuned over 230 Evos so far - not one problem of any kind

No one dosnt like my tunes - they all carry money back guarantees and no one has asked for their money back yet


Not to mention the dyno flashed cars are the fastest in the US - especially mine

 

LOL....just by that response, you have proved what I was suspecting. Dont bash me because I chose to take a different route, and you have a problem with the tuner. Thats between you and the tuner to debate with. Im happy with my decision I made, the results of my tune on the dyno, and @ the track.

Ken

 

NO actually his brother was tuned two months ago in MUCH warmer air

This guy apparently just did his dyno tune in near freezing weather

Just the temps alone could account for the differnces

Lets see if he posts the dyno sheet

If his brother came back, in these temps, and we put a boost controller on - as cheap as $49.99 - we could get the same power or more