Help with 2.0L Build
Help with 2.0L Build
OK didn't get much feedback in the advanced forums so I'll try here...
Alright so I just spun the #4 rod bearing and I'm looking into rebuilding the motor, keeping it a 2.0L. The crank looks good so I'll probably have that professionally inspected and polished and I'll reuse that since a lot of people run the stock crank with no problems.
I'm already planning on a full ACL race bearing kit but I'm still debating the pistons and rods. The head was built before this happened so I don't need to touch that. I know this sounds stupid (and I don't need people asking me why I want to do this) but I would like to have the option (not an every day thing) of revving up to 10-10.5k. The head is already built to take it like I said.
I just need to know what is the best rod/piston setup to handle high RPMs. I'm really looking into the Manley Turbo Tuffs since I've heard nothing but good things about them but I'm not sure how well they handle high RPMs.
Thanks in advance!!
Alright so I just spun the #4 rod bearing and I'm looking into rebuilding the motor, keeping it a 2.0L. The crank looks good so I'll probably have that professionally inspected and polished and I'll reuse that since a lot of people run the stock crank with no problems.
I'm already planning on a full ACL race bearing kit but I'm still debating the pistons and rods. The head was built before this happened so I don't need to touch that. I know this sounds stupid (and I don't need people asking me why I want to do this) but I would like to have the option (not an every day thing) of revving up to 10-10.5k. The head is already built to take it like I said.
I just need to know what is the best rod/piston setup to handle high RPMs. I'm really looking into the Manley Turbo Tuffs since I've heard nothing but good things about them but I'm not sure how well they handle high RPMs.
Thanks in advance!!
make sure with the professional inspection and polish that they check the hardness.
Someone people say the stock cranks are nitrided, some people dont.
If it's not nitrided, i would recommend that.
If you want Rev's like that, have you thought about just buying a short block from a vendor on here? I'm sure it would save you a lot of headaches, and a lot of vendors have proven packages
Someone people say the stock cranks are nitrided, some people dont.
If it's not nitrided, i would recommend that.
If you want Rev's like that, have you thought about just buying a short block from a vendor on here? I'm sure it would save you a lot of headaches, and a lot of vendors have proven packages
this is true you should def buy a motor from a vendor like buschur racing ect... beacuse in the long run after you add everything up it cost almost exactly the same amount of money.
Most common mistake on an engine build = reusing the stock crank, or running an improper crankshaft bearing clearance. You must measure (with a mic) the crankshaft main and con rod journals at 70 degrees F, if they are still within spec then you can re-use it. If not then toss the crank and get a new one. If its even .001" out of spec, don't run it. Polishing the crank or running oversized bearings is a big waste of time and money in my opinion (especially when new OEM cranks are so cheap). I agree with the others, if you haven't built a motor before, you might want to consider a pre-built block from a vendor. If you choose to do the rebuild yourself, you won't save any money because you will have to invest in ALOT of tools that aren't cheap, and what you'll end up with is an experimental motor at best.
Last edited by sonicnofadz; Mar 11, 2011 at 07:43 PM.
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