I bought this clutch cause I never plan to make any significant power. I almost solely autocross/daily drive the car, and I never drag race (gave that up 4+ years ago).. dont really care to push the revs much either. Only thing it has to handle is a mini launch, short shift to second... thats it. At least when I drive

Fast forward 6000 miles and my co-driver for these first rain events got a little overzealous with launching and I saw little puffs of smoke come out of the hood and tire well. This is a kevlar clutch, once you smoke that disc it's all over. I got to make one more run babying it off the line but after that it couldn't even hold my measly ~320 hp. It did manage ~25 runs in the last 2 weekends but only takes 1 real bad launch apparently to make it worthless.

Before this its been pretty good. Engagement is a bit choppy but it felt grabby and solid. If I didn't have to worry about others smoking the clutch I would have no problem just throwing another disc in and calling it a day but in the past I've had better luck with organic dealing with heat.

 

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I just got rid of this exact clutch for this very reason. You should be able to use any stock style clutch disc. I ended up buying a Carbonetics Pro blade clutch. It's a single disc carbon clutch that should offer smooth engagement and still hold big power and have a long life. Unfortunately in your situation the pressure plate is pretty weak from what I understand but with the power you are making it should be fine with a decent disc. Might try an ACT.

 

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna try an ACT out, just need to get one on order today since I have the next autocross in less than 2weeks. Even if I do get high RPM lock-out, it wont effect me since I never shift at high RPM (Stock cams/ turbo/ cat back kill the power over 7k).

I just need it to handle possibly 16 mild launches on a 100degree day in 2 hours. That's one launch every 8 minutes. If it gets hot we can just baby it on the start till it cools back down but thats better then it ****ting itself from one misshap.

 

Darn, thats bad news...

Had high hopes for this clutch - few of my friends gave it rave reviews...

Seemed too good to be true thou - cheaper than a ACT without the lockout issues.

I even ordered one a week ago.

 

Not sure if you're putting it on one of the cars in your sig, but if it is then its definitely not enough clutch. For a daily driven 330hp car its perfect. Ill say mine died due to user error. It was just slipped way to hard on a launch (ugh!!), and kevlar is unforgiving if you overheat it that bad.

Organic + High clamp force has proven to be quite capable in DSMs though ACT has lost a lot on their reputation do to some cheaper build qualities in the last half decade. I definitely dont want a twin, but I definitely dont want kevlar either.. Without running a pucked disc that almost only leaves ACT.

 

Ok I actually brought it in for stock turbo pump gas Evo - not one of my cars... Oh it arrived today and is actually a Stage 4...

I think it will be fine for that application.


My 2.3L 6262 Evo has a - Carbonetic Twin
Stock Block HTA3076R Evo has a - ACT 6 Puk Sprung

thanks
Sal
.

 

My Competition clutch stg4 6 puck lasted all of 5k miles and 2 launches lol....it was weak

 

Hows the 6puck sprung disc working for you? I ran a 6puck un-sprung disc in my talon and that thing took a serious amount of abuse and kept on kicking but it was Sintered Iron/Ceramic (or feramic, I forget..). I had probably 100+ autocross launches which for me meant wheels spinning. It did suck on the street through, quite the on-off switch.

 

I had a 6 puk unsprung and I got good service out of it - held pleny power, it took traffic driving to eventually kill it (had lock-out issues at the track but no issues street driving)

Spung is nicer to drive - holds the power - but same story they dont like traffic driving... (No lock-out issues as yet)

Only problem I have with the sprung is Longivity with Traffic Driving - for a combo of track and street I think its a nice clutch...

 

Hey Dallas, I have the ACT HD with sprung 6 puck disc and it has seen its fair share of abuse over its 80k+ miles and still kicking in my car. Either the sprung or unsprung should handle the abuse. I wouldnt buy my setup again, but it was well worth the money when i bought it from ER almost 4 years ago. It should handle anything you throw at it.

 

im running the stage 4 comp clutch with the stage 5 heavy duty pressure plate on mines and it works well... only did few launches after work since many of my coworkers wanna see but it launches fine... i believe that it is on how u engage the clutch... but i do have a problem with my tranny ....after i take it up to 7500 rpm my tranny locks out n i cant shift quick into the next gear..?? n e body know why?? i just changed my fluids 3 months ago but this happens occasionally... let me know

 

My stg3 held launches fine when I did it, but it definitely cant take the heat of being slipped by someone who's use to the rear wheels spinning.

How high off the floor does your pedal engage? Lock out can also be caused if they didn't clean the splines on your input shaft. The friction plate doesn't float away from the flywheel and drags.

 

ever since i bought the 8 i did a full tune up...(plugs,wires,oil,trans fluid,transfer case fluid,diff fluid) but ive alwase had that problem with the shifting... everytime i took it to redline it just wouldnt go into the next gear like really quick... it locks out for probly half a sec before goin into the next gear so i alwase end up forcing it in and grinding my synchros... i actually took it to sean burgess @ full function for a full rebuild but even after that its still the same... im only pushing 291hp/296tq on my 8 with a 9 turbo... lmk guys

 

Two probable causes. 1) Incomplete release of the friction plates. I had a CC stage 2 that would re-engage at 7200 if I free revved the engine holding the clutch on the floor. Poor design of the pressure plate allowing centrifugal force to bring pressure back onto the friction surfaces. 2) interita of the rotating assy attached to the transmission input shaft. Your synchros are friction clutches whose job is to match speed between the input shaft and the next gear being engaged so the engagement dogs can mesh. A clutch which presents a lot of rotational inertia will be a chore for the synchro's to overcome and the mismtach in speed results in lockout. You can force the next gear, but you will get the grind of the dogs meeting and different speeds because the synchros haven't been able to do their job in a timely manner. the higher the RPM's the worse the issue due to the higher rotational intertia.

 

kevlar material slips when it gets glazed. it will come back to life if you give it a chance to wear the glaze off. . you have to drive it normally for a break in period of 700-1000 miles.