if there is nothing on the pump ill check the play on the gears, if you are still on the limits i will just get a new stubby shaft.

 

Take some good pics of the oil pump and post them. You DO NOT want to polish the pump you will make clearances too large and cause low oil psi. If it does show signs or rubbing I think 200 is much better price to pay then 3K plus when it locks up. Also good idea to buy a new pick-up tube. Get us Pics.

 

Yep, post some pics.

 

I'm going to look for my mom's digi and steal that to grab some good pics.

UPDATE....Finally got that POS phillips screw out with a impact screwdriver and it looks pretty good inside, some minor scrubbing but nothing serious and only one "scratch" that can be felt. ONCE I threw it in the parts washer and cleaned all the oil out I reassembled it dry, tightened the bolts pretty tight, now it turns EASY. The only difference from before is I didn't have the phillips head screw in (just the 4 hex heads) which I doubt made the difference and the other difference is theres no oil "cushion". I know the oil should make it have resistance but damn not enough to have a hard time to turn it like it had. I'm not planning on buying a pump now, I'm going to reassemble it with everything soaked in oil and see if it still does it and go from there. Any other ideas or comments on what to do/check?

 

Dont do that . Get a new pump dude for how cheap a pump is compared to spun bearings / scored rods / crank. Good luck man .

 

Here's some pics

 

I'm going to get order a pump along with all my other parts I need and use it if I need it, if not return it or sell it. Who sees something wrong?? Cause I don't
With my luck the pump is fine but the stubby shaft is what has not enough clearance

 

try another stubby! the pump look clean.

 

When you say the stub shaft doesn't have enough clearance what do you mean? When assembled with the back portion of the pump its too tight in the bore?

 

If it were mine I would buy new pump, full shaft , inspect inside oil passage ways real good for dirt / metal as well as every where you can see inside the engine then clean it all out with brake clean and make sure all the brake clean dries put a light coat of oil on the gears / bearing surfaces as well as lip of new seal so when you start it it doesn't turn dry.

 

Also look up torque specs and tighten to actual torque specs not by hand at the least for the oil pump screw / bolts.

 

I just meant thats what it seemed like, since as soon as I loosed the bolts it would turn freely, once snugged up (not tight at all), it would turn hard.


Since then I cleaned the whole front cover, hears, pump housing, etc in a parts washer, blew everything dry with compressed air, including all the oil passages from both holes. Smeared oil in and on everything and reassembled everything and torqued it pretty good and now it turns FINE, which is confusing. The only thing different is I didn't put the philips screw back in since it's all stripped but that shouldnt have affected it since the bolts can take more torque and theres 2 dowel pins so the housing is lined up square. Like said the pump and everything else only has 6k miles on it so the seals look/should be fine anyway and shows no leakage.

 

Anymore opinions? Leave it and put it together? I wish I had more time and money to spare I would get the "proper" long oil pump shaft instead of the stubby.

 

did you post pics of what you found in the oil pan that is very important also boss those 2 half moon pieces you are speaking of could be your thrust bearings and that could be why your clutch is not engauging and dis engauging like it should properly because the crank is moving. i would buy a new oil pump also if it were me good luck man.

 

Yea deff, I wish I took pics of em but I lost the two little pieces before I could. It's nothing with the bearings but good thinking. What it looks like was a wire snap ring (the kind without the holes) for a piston pin, basically a small thin wire clip that was once round but assume broke in half, if you can picture the metal o-ring that goes halfway inside the head to seal the HG and shrink it down to the size smaller than a penny thats EXACTLY what it looked like. But my Ross pistons have spiralocks (from my research) and my cylinder walls show NO damage or evidence of a clip coming out or pin scraping.

I was looking at my new JAM lifters I got and theres a small metal ring on top of the plunger close to that size and I had damage to one of my lifters so I thought it was from the lifter but the lifters that were in the motor didnt have that clip so I really have no idea. I'm prob going to talk to the kid I bought the car from and see if the last motor blew up and maybe when the shop put the new motor in they swapped the oil pump pickup and didnt look inside and its leftover from that motor, unless SBR puts on new pickups and pans on there motors which I doubt.