I have my motor out and was starting to line up the pulleys to put on the timing belt but the oil pump sprocket is hard to turn, I know the trick to see if the balance shaft is in phase is by putting the mark at the top and letting go and it will turn, it sure as hell wont do that and takes a good amount of effort to turn it with my fingers, the engine has 6k miles on it so is it normal for a fresh motor? With my mustangs oil pump it was always hard to turn but its a different pump and this whole "let go and see which way it spins" is whats making me nervous something might be wrong since it h. So is something wrong or its normal for a fresh motor?

Also the timing belt tensioner has some oil coming out of the small shaft, not sure if it was from the original engine or if has 6k miles but this means its on its way out right??

Thanks

 

It has a balance shaft elimination kit in it too

Also its much harder to turn going CCW than it is going Clockwise, I can see it having some resistance in it since there's some oil in it but still....I really dont want to pull this front cover off for no reason

 

The oil pump gear should turn without much effort. If its hard to turn it might be binding on the housing. Why is an engine with only 6k miles out of the car?

 

Long story short...exhaust rocker broke, cam lobe hit the lifter and slightly bent the valve, took the head off to change the valve. While the motor was apart and I was having clutch issues that my triple was dragging and not fully disengaging i took the motor and trans out to change the clutch. I changed the timing belt for a seperate reason (wasnt necessary) and noticed the leaking tensioner and oil pump hard to turn...I was hoping to have a running car tomorrow but looks like im going to have to order my parts and somehow find a way to get to work for another week. Been watching youtube videos and I can see how easy it should be to turn, theres gotta be something wrong, even tho the oil pump is only 2 gears and doesnt even have balance shafts anymore...

Anybody got a spare car I can use in nj?? hahh this suckss

 

U might seize the balance shaft! If u have problems turning it with your fingers ill remove the oil pump and se what's goin on!

I have seen a lot of evos witha bs problem and you can say bye bye to your valves.

 

When I did my timing belt the oil pump turned by hand freely . Do you just have a " stubby " balance shaft eliminator kit ? I have heard the stubbys are harder on parts than the full shaft type eliminator kits. Hope this helps.

 

He removed them as he stated in his post above.

I would remove the oil pump. On the backside of the pump removed the rear oil pump housing cover. Then remove the front gear where the belt rides on. Remove the two oil pump gears and look to see if there is any evidence on the housing where the gears may have made contact.

 

Damn it, I'll start taking the pump off....I know its got no balance shaft but I dont know if it has the stubby or not (never even heard of a full length one before). With my luck its going to need a new pump, I bought the car with a SBR shortblock, installed by Buschur and tons of money spent on the car by a rich kid and I have problems still.

 

Welp, didnt even get the pump off yet but I looked up into the oil pump screen and I saw 2 broken peices, metal, 2 half moons with a sligght bevel, looks like they were together at one point (making it a complete circle) I have no idea what's it from, kinda looks like a piston pin clip but cant be and my cylinders look fine. Will have pics asap

 

take pics.

 

the two different types. http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...eliminator.htm http://www.mellontuning.com/index.ph...roducts_id=535 " Read the description of the full length one . "

 

Good info, makes sense but with I'm sure thousands of cars running the stubby shaft version with no problems that's not my problem especially with only 6k on it.

Whatever I found in the pump screen im assuming is also in the pump and somehow making it bind up. I'm trying to find out if it is a piston pin spring clip b/c I dont see anything else it could be but yet no evidence on the cyl walls. It could be from the previous motor since a baffle inside oil pan was dented like something let loose and dented it and someone swapped the pump pickup from the old motor and didnt look inside the screen (wouldnt be surprised) and is leftover from the old motor. I really don't want to pull the pistons if I don't have to and now I can't find the 2 small broken pieces

 

u dont need to pull the pistons out, just take apart the oil pump and check everything really good.

 

I got the front cover off and the 4 hex bolts off the back of the pump but the phillips screw wouldnt break free and started to strip (cheap *** soft metal) so I got to ...BUT I realized AS SOON as I loosen up the 4 bolts holding the oil pump halves together now the pump turns super freely. The bolts were on there pretty damn tight but even if I snugged it up to a unsafe loose torque the sprocket still seems too tight to do that balance test...and has resistance.

So I'm thinking the pump half might have too tight of a tolerance or the stubby shaft is too "thick" and when the bolts are torqued it compresses the halves together binding on the gears. Guess I wont know till I get the screw out and the pump apart but either way a pump aint cheap and I doubt I can just buy that rear housing if that would fix the issue...

 

Once I get it apart and if there's no junk inside what should I do? New pump? new stubby shaft? Do some lighhtt polishing to make clearance? Money's getting tight and I don't want to buy a $200 pump if I don't have to