Built evo act hd street vs 6 puck
Here is my take on it:
The street disc will provide smooth engagment, but the puck will hold about 28% more torque and has higher heat capacity. The puck has no cushining between the friction surfaces so it takes less travel to operate and allows for more air gap when disengaged. This is the reason it will have a better chance shifting at high rpm. If the street disc locks out, then there is insufficient air gap and adjustment is needed at the pedal to increase throw.
The street disc will provide smooth engagment, but the puck will hold about 28% more torque and has higher heat capacity. The puck has no cushining between the friction surfaces so it takes less travel to operate and allows for more air gap when disengaged. This is the reason it will have a better chance shifting at high rpm. If the street disc locks out, then there is insufficient air gap and adjustment is needed at the pedal to increase throw.
Here is my take on it:
The street disc will provide smooth engagment, but the puck will hold about 28% more torque and has higher heat capacity. The puck has no cushining between the friction surfaces so it takes less travel to operate and allows for more air gap when disengaged. This is the reason it will have a better chance shifting at high rpm. If the street disc locks out, then there is insufficient air gap and adjustment is needed at the pedal to increase throw.
The street disc will provide smooth engagment, but the puck will hold about 28% more torque and has higher heat capacity. The puck has no cushining between the friction surfaces so it takes less travel to operate and allows for more air gap when disengaged. This is the reason it will have a better chance shifting at high rpm. If the street disc locks out, then there is insufficient air gap and adjustment is needed at the pedal to increase throw.
I never understood what they mean when they say adjustment? How do you do it? is there a how too? also won't the 6 puck more than likely hurt the drivetrain vs street disc?
There is adjustment on the clutch pedal, you can raise or lower it which would change how the clutch grabs...crawl under your dash and look at your clutch pedal, you will see it...
Which 6 puck are you guys referring to? I see that ACT offers a 6 puck sprung and a 6 puck solid. To the people in this thread that state you currently have one can you state which one of the two?
i had act hdss with prolite steel flywhell launched it 100+ times and drove ti for 37k miles wit 400whp setup NO ISSUES OF LOCKOUT OR POWER NOT BEING HELD AT ALL !!!
now im currently running the act XTSS with a prolite steel flywheel on a 500+hp setup
NEVER BUY THE 6 PUCK
now im currently running the act XTSS with a prolite steel flywheel on a 500+hp setup
NEVER BUY THE 6 PUCK
As stated earlier in this thread, I ordered the sprung 6 puck but ACT set the unsprung, I couldn't have anymore down time with my car so I just put it in...36k+ miles later, still running strong...Ill bet my 6 spd will blow up before my clutch does, haha...
Last edited by 06MREvo; Jun 28, 2011 at 08:44 AM.
UNsprung 6 puck with a Fidanza flywheel...36k miles on it now...I shifted at 8k rpms all day at the track on Sunday...I've been over 400whp for the past year...Between track passes & the street I've probably launched the car at 6k rpms or higher over 200 times easy...BUT not everyone may have the same experience as me, just saying...
As stated earlier in this thread, I ordered the sprung 6 puck but ACT set the unsprung, I couldn't have anymore down time with my car so I just put it in...36k+ miles later, still running strong...Ill bet my 6 spd will blow up before my clutch does, haha...
As stated earlier in this thread, I ordered the sprung 6 puck but ACT set the unsprung, I couldn't have anymore down time with my car so I just put it in...36k+ miles later, still running strong...Ill bet my 6 spd will blow up before my clutch does, haha...
If you just a plain animal then you need to spend real money and just get a triple disk OS GIKEN or Exedy Triple and call it a day! You need to respect your equipment and it will take care of you. I have owned and driven everything from Singles, twins, Triples, Carbons (Tilton, Exedy, Carbonetic) and QM. They all have their good points and bad points. It depends on what you are trying to do and your budget. No easy decision.
I have the ACT MB7-HDSS and love it. Drives better than stock, grabs great...I have experience some lockout at times, but it's not all the time. For everyday use, I highly recommend the ACT HD Street Disc clutch.
I have read a ton of posts regarding the stock style OEM single disc clutches wear and lockout. From what I see everyone has a different driving style when launching their cars. The key is to keep the heat down (slipping) as low as possible without bogging the car. That is why some people get lock out and some don't on their ACT's. I honestly think there is a tipping point for any clutch material and pressure plate whether it is the stock full face or 6 puck copper. They key issue is to keep the heat down and you wont warp the pressure plate which reduces the clearance (creates drag on the clutch) and causes a lockout issue since the syncros can't wind down fast enough. Once that happens it is all downhill from there. If you overadjust your clutch throwout you also risk popping the T/O bearing clip. These are all band aid solutions showing the limits of a OEM design. For 95% of the EVO owners out there the single ACT fits the bill well...
1. A typical organic has cushioning between the linings that help provide progressive smooth engagement. Well, this cushioning also requires travel, which reduces air gap as the clutch is fully depressed. ACT reduces the cushioning but does not eliminate it. On the puck there is no cushioning, so it requires less travel and produces more air gap when disengaged and typically has less shifting issues.
2. As you mentioned, the surfaces can get warped when abused and overheated, and to compensate for the warpage, to increase air gap you have to adjust the m/c rod (at the pedal assembly). Typically shifting problems start to occur after a trip or a bad launch experience. This is not an ACT thing, but is true with any clutch. If the clutch assembly is taken out and resurfaced flat again, then shifting improves. We have seen it many times.
I will also mention that more clutch air gap is needed (higher engagement/disengagement point) on the EVO to begin with when shifting at high rpm, regardless of clutch choice. If the clutch tends to drag or pull the car forward at high rpm, you should consider extending the m/c rod a little more. Many people don't realize there is an issue until thousands of miles later and the transmission syncros are worn out. Early detection and adjustment will prevent syncro wear, but no amount of adjustment will fix worn syncros if the issue is ignored.
I disagree with your opinion on the TO bearing clip. I have other theories on that issue, but I will save that for another discussion.
I've been on the SPRUNG 6 puck w/gruppe-s flywheel combo for....about 3 years now. 360/360 E85 8 turbo at 27psi. I'm happy with it. Its rather easy to get used to, has good street manners. It can be a bit chatter-y, especially in reverse. Not even considering the price, I'm very happy with it, the price is just icing on the cake. I just did NOT have 1300$ for a clutch + install when I blew the stocker at 23k, I DID have 600$ + install though, so its what I went with. No regrets, only locked out once or twice. And honestly, at the RPM's it locked, it was well above the efficiency point of my turbo anyways and well above my normal shift points.
